The Yin & Yang of Gerry Lopez Trailer

The Yin & Yang of Gerry Lopez Trailer

From award-winning documentary filmmaker Stacy Peralta comes Patagonia’s The Yin & Yang of Gerry Lopez, a film that lifts the veil on one of surfing’s most enigmatic heroes. While “Mr. Pipeline” is famously known for his calm demeanour in the tube, Gerry built his career with aggressive surfing that left behind a trail of blood and tears. Gerry is as radical as he is Zen; he transcends categorisation. He’s one of the most influential surfers and surfboard shapers of all time, an entrepreneur, a family man, a movie star and a lifelong yogi who brought surfing to new frontiers. His influence on modern surfing is immeasurable, and for the first time, his story is being told in full.

Heaven is on my side

Heaven is on my side

“Heaven is on my side” is a short film born of the desire to portray my friend and big-wave surfer João “Massas” de Macedo’s unique relationship with the giant waves of Nazaré, one of deep gratitude and respect, both for the wave and the whole community that surrounds it. Plus he absolutely charges out there, so to get a front-row seat to that, both on competition and non-competition days, was an absolutely incredible opportunity I jumped at. As if shooting big-wave surfing wasn’t hard enough though, we decided to shoot on Super 8 film, to keep the crew to a minimum and also to create a timeless aesthetic that reflected the location and themes of the film. Thanks to all those involved in making this happen. – Marco Espirito Santo @marcoespiritosanto

The Surfer and the Sage

The Surfer and the Sage

The Surfer and the Sage – A Guide to Survive and Guide Life’s Waves seeks to provide hope and inspiration to those on life’s rocky road.

“As COVID affected our lives, it seemed as though the average individual’s mental health started to change for the worse. Feelings of disappointment, confusion and anger started to arise. Legendary world champion surfer, Shaun Tomson, is no stranger to depression. After losing his son, Tomson walked the bitter road of loss and crossed from darkness into the light.”

The Surfer and the Sage addresses the eighteen relentless, breaking waves of life, from loss and ageing to relationships and depression, and guides you to transformation. While this book cannot provide clinical help, it can provide spiritual guidance and inspirational hope. International bestselling poet-philosopher, Noah BenShea, provides insight on a path of purpose, hope, and faith. It is not a list of rules to follow that guarantee success, health, or wealth, but rather a collection of advice from two guides who have traveled far and wide and suffered deeply, but still look forward to tomorrow with hope and faith.

The Surfer and the Sage by Shaun Tomson and Noah BenShea is available from 7 June, 2022 Price: $17.99 from bookstores, online booksellers and directly from familius.com or from amazon here, £12.99

“Some great insights into riding the waves of life. If you surf, read this book. If you don’t surf, read this book.”
 — Carissa Moore, surfing Olympic gold medallist and five-time world champion

The Surfer and the Sage by Shaun Tomson and Noah BenShea is available from 7 June, 2022 Price: $17.99 from bookstores, online booksellers and directly from familius.com or from amazon here, £12.99

“Some great insights into riding the waves of life. If you surf, read this book. If you don’t surf, read this book.”
 — Carissa Moore, surfing Olympic gold medallist and five-time world champion

Nias Bombs

Nias Bombs

The first solid swell of the Season hit the Lagundri Bay heavy, lots of unridden double ups, specially around high-tide, perfect looking but really fast hollow tubes.
Also not really any crowd with two days of epic waves, broken leashes, broken boards and happy faces!
Enjoy this recap.

@rubyandthesunn on a bomb above Photo: @eliaswyndaleo

Day 3 of ISA World Juniors

Day 3 of ISA World Juniors

A rising, long-period swell provided excitement on Day 3 of competition at the 2022 Surf City El Salvador ISA World Junior Surfing Championship. The pumping peaks of La Bocana belonged to the U-16’s, with the U-18 field encamped at the somewhat slower El Sunzal.

Round 2 of the Main Event was completed in every division. All 419 competitors still have a chance to win gold, but the first repechage round is now filled and eliminations will begin Tuesday morning.

Erin Brooks – Canada Photo: @Nateperryphoto

Erin Brooks (CAN) delivered the highest single wave score of the event so far, a 9.67 in the U-16 Girls. A massive forehand lip gouge was responsible for the majority of the near-perfect score. Brooks is ready to bring more, however.

“My 9.67 was super fun. It was one of the biggest waves of the heat and I wanted to push myself but not over-surf the wave. Hopefully during the period of the contest there’s some good air sections so I can show more progressive surfing.”

Eden Hasson (AUS) had the goal of opening with an excellent score and that’s exactly what he achieved. An 8.33 in the early moments, combined with a 7.50, handed him the highest heat total of the day for Boys U-16 (15.83). Hans Odriozola (ESP) flew through a gigantic backhand floater, followed by a two-turn combo, for a well-earned 9.50 and the highest single wave score of Boys U-16.

Luke Thompson (RSA) ripped multiple turns on a well-selected wall at El Sunzal for a 9.00, the highest single wave score of the Boys U-18. Combined with a 7.10, the South African also claimed the highest heat total of the division.

Luke Thomson – South Africa Photo: ISA / Jersson Barboza

Breaking through the barrier of excellence in Girls U-18 allowed Genesis Borja (ECU) to collect the highest single wave (8.57) and heat total (14.24). Puamakamae Desoto (HAW) also found excellence, with her backhand attack landing her an 8.17.

Garnering a non-priority interference in the first few minutes wasn’t how Jackson Dorian planned to start his all-important Round 2 heat, but it wasn’t going to stop him. Sitting in fourth place with under a minute to go, the 14-year-old used precocious heat strategy to hold strong till the last minute.

“There were a couple waves that came through and I decided not to paddle for the first couple because I didn’t want anyone sitting on me,” he said. “I wanted to hold onto priority and not risk losing it. So I waited and then the last one I one hundred percent knew I was going to catch and that was the one I got so it was really scary.”

Driving straight into a huge section on one of the biggest waves of the day, the 8.00 score he received rocketed him to first place as he continued his charge through the Main Event.

The daughter of two former professional snowboarders, Tya Zebrowski is turning heads at just 11 years of age. The Team France member, who splits her time between Hossegor and Tahiti, opened her Girls U-16 heat with a 7.50.

“It is my first time into the ISA World Junior Championships. I am so happy to do the heat and to win. The waves were so perfect. I had fun.”

Tya Zebrowski – France Photo: ISA / Sean Evans

Trinidad and Tobago might not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of surfing nations, but Cheyenne Patino is aiming to change that.

“The biggest dream I have is to go to the Olympics and I’m going to make that dream come true by working hard.”

She may be the youngest female competitor at 10-years-old, but the Trinbagonian is here to win heats.

“It feels great to be the youngest competitor cause I can show people how young I am and I can still beat some people.”

ISA President Fernando Aguerre said:

“The young talent on display here in El Salvador has been truly amazing. These incredible junior surfers give us a glimpse of the future. I have no doubt we are witnessing many future Olympians on these beautiful waves.

“We already know that the comraderie that we are seeing across all of the teams will continue into the careers of these athletes. It’s wonderful to know that every single surfer still has the chance to win gold here in El Salvador.”

The 2022 Surf City El Salvador ISA World Junior Surfing Championship will be broadcast live until June 5 on isasurf.org.

The event schedule is as follows:

May 31 – June 5 – Competition at La Bocana and El Sunzal
June 5 – Closing Ceremony at El Sunzal following the close of competition

Sick Midwinter

Sick Midwinter

There’s something special about surfing through the winter; empty beaches, quieter roads, cold fresh winds and consistent swells. The Atlantic Ocean comes alive, it’s a cold water paradise awash with surfers of all ages, check out the grass roots edit, filmed and edited by Caleb Giddens @calebgiddensmedia