Daoine Na Mara – Tales from the Green shores

Daoine Na Mara – Tales from the Green shores

“My Dad always says that the west coast of Ireland chooses its people.” (Rory O’Dowd).

This is our attempt to explore the ways in which the surfers of the west coast of Ireland live and experience the ocean. We have collected stories from first-hand interviews as well as surf photography, film work and art.

Based on PhD research by Dr. Frederique Carey, we offer a little insight into the Irish surfing culture and its “surflore”. We show how Irish surfers’ expressive body of culture intertwines personal passions with environmental and social dimensions, and how it draws from Ireland’s ancient bardic traditions, popular culture and poetry… where legends and myths are always but a few words away.

A huge thank you to Rory O'Dowed, John & Neil Byrne, Ollie O'Flaherty, Joe McGowan, Aaron Reid, Owen Murphy, Adam Cross, Josh McRea, for taking part in this short taster of whats to come … along with many more whom we interviewed for their contributions to both the completed and now published research!

We are now aiming to turn this into a full-fledged documentary series sharing their stories!

After navigating troubled waters with a global pandemic and a young family to rear, this has been a long time coming but it is now ready to be shared and we look forward to your reviews!

Pockets full of water productions @pocketsfullofwater

Moore and Toledo Victorious

Moore and Toledo Victorious

Carissa Moore (HAW) and Filipe Toledo (BRA) won the Oi Rio Pro Presented by Corona, Stop No. 8 on the World Surf League (WSL) 2022 Championship Tour (CT). The competition finished off in spectacular fashion in front of a huge crowd at Praia de Itaúna in Saquarema, Brazil. Five-time WSL Champion Moore defeated Johanne Defay (FRA) in the Finals, while Toldo took out rookie Samuel Pupo (BRA), to earn his third-straight event win in Saquarema and his fourth overall at the Oi Rio Pro. 

Carissa Moore Wins Oi Rio Pro, Clinches a Spot in the WSL Final 5
 Current World No. 1 Moore has been consistent throughout the 2022 CT season with three 2nd place finishes in addition to her 1st place result in Saquarema. Today’s win marks the 25th CT victory of her career and she now has her sights set on another possible World Title at the Rip Curl WSL Finals at Lower Trestles from September 8-16, 2022.

In the Final, Defay got off to a strong start, earning a 7.50 (out of a possible 10) on solid backhand surfing on the predominantly lefthand waves in the 4-6 foot range at Praia de Itaúna. She followed with a 4.83 for a 12.33 total (out of a possible 20). Moore, on the other hand, had two mid-range scores of a 5.50 and a 5.93 with the clock ticking down. But on the last wave of the heat, Moore blasted consecutive backside hacks with speed and progression to earn a 9.50, the highest score of the event in the women’s division.

“This is one of my favourite wins in my whole career,” said Moore. “Coming up against my good friend Johanne Defay is always difficult. She got me in G-Land and I really feel like she’s the one to beat this year. I was behind in the whole heat and I thought that I was probably going to get another 2nd place here, but things went my way. I’ve just had such an incredible week at a house with all my friends, the crowds have been amazing, and I’ve felt a lot of love and support here, so I think that’s what made it even more special.” 

In addition to her victory, Moore was able to clinch a spot in the WSL Final 5, extending her lead in the rankings over Defay, Lakey Peterson (USA), Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) and Brisa Hennessy (CRI). 

“Wow, I didn’t even know it was possible here, but I’m really, really stoked,” said Moore. “That’s really cool, it takes some pressure off. That’s awesome, sweet!” 

As was the case with the majority of the athletes competing at the 2022 Oi Rio Pro presented by Corona, there was an exhilarating feeling at the event brought by the energy and stoke provided by the most passionate and avid surf fans in the world.

“It’s great to make it to the Finals. But it’s the fans that make it so special,” said Defay from the Award Ceremony.

Toledo Earns Third-Straight Victory in Saquarema
Toledo is now being referred to as the “King of Saquarema” after winning his third-consecutive event in Saquarema and four total victories at the Oi Rio Pro. After two throwaway scores, Toledo boosted the biggest backside air rotation of the event for a perfect 10-point ride. Toledo also caught one of the longest barrels of the event and added a quick air-reverse on the closeout section for an 8.67. Toledo was unstoppable in the Finals and his torrid pace resulted in an 18.67 total, the highest of the event.

“I feel completely blessed for being in this position and sharing this moment with my family, friends and this amazing crowd,” said Toledo. “I want to congratulate Samuel (Pupo), Yago (Dora) and Italo (Ferreira) who all made it to the Semifinals. It was a historic moment for us Brazilian athletes and the crowd was a class act, showed love to everyone on Tour and made this one of the most magical events ever.”

With his victory today, Toledo has equaled the record set by Dave Macaulay (AUS), who earned four CT wins in Brazil in 1986, 1988, 1989, 1993. Toledo’s incredible three consecutive wins came in 2018, 2019 and 2022 in Saquarema, with his first coming at the Oi Rio Pro in 2015 at Barra da Tijuca.

Samuel Pupo made it to the first Final of his career on the Championship Tour against Toledo. As a rookie, the young high-flyer had spectacular performances throughout the Oi Rio Pro, taking down big names such as Caio Ibelli (BRA), Mateus Herdy (BRA), and Italo Ferreira (BRA) on his way to the Finals.

“Filipe started with a 10 on a wave that I could have blocked because I had priority. He went  left and I ended up going to the right,” said Pupo. “Afterwards, it was difficult to recover because the sea calmed down and not many waves came through, so it seemed that everything was going in his favor. But I'm really happy I made the Final. For sure, this is the best day of my life, but the year is not over and I already really want to compete again. I can't wait to go to J-Bay and do my best there,” completed Pupo.

Toledo and Moore Also Win Inaugural Mano Ziul Award
 In what was one of the most emotional moments of the Oi Rio Pro, the inaugural Mano Ziul Award was presented to honour a visionary and pioneer in the sport of surfing. The recently deceased Mano Ziul was able to provide the first webcasts for contests, bringing the most remote locations into the audience’s living room. His creation of the scoring system has been a fundamental part of competitive surfing ever since it was created. To honour his memory, the Mano Ziul Award was given to the men’s and women’s athletes with the highest heat total of the event at the Oi Rio Pro.

Mano Ziul’s family, represented by his wife Sandra and his children Luiza and Ziul (Ziulzinho) Andueza presented the trophies to Carissa Moore for her 15.43 total and Filipe Toledo, who earned an 18.67 total, both in the Finals.
 
“I want to dedicate this victory to Mano Ziul, who is up there watching us all right now. This win should be celebrated by all of us for everything he has done for the sport of surfing,” declared Toledo from the award ceremony.

2022 Oi Rio Pro presented by Corona Women’s Final Results:
1 - Carissa Moore (HAW) 15.43
2 - Johanne Defay (FRA) 12.33

2022 Oi Rio Pro presented by Corona Men’s Final Results:
1 - Filipe Toledo (BRA) 18.67
2 - Samuel Pupo (BRA) 10.73

2022 Oi Rio Pro presented by Corona Women’s Semifinal Results:
HEAT 1: Johanne Defay (FRA) 12.16 DEF. Gabriela Bryan (HAW) 9.67
HEAT 2: Carissa Moore (HAW) 14.60 DEF. Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) 11.77

2022 Oi Rio Pro presented by Corona Men’s Semifinal Results:
HEAT 1: Samuel Pupo (BRA) 11.44 DEF. Italo Ferreira (BRA) 10.83
HEAT 2: Filipe Toledo (BRA) 17.36 DEF. Yago Dora (BRA) 15.34

For more information, please visit WorldSurfLeague.com.

Thank You Mother – Torren Martyn

Thank You Mother – Torren Martyn

Thank You Mother is a cinematic journey of surfing, simplicity and appreciation. It is a film that isn't afraid to be beautiful, stylish and sincere. Produced by needessentials, this film by Torren Martyn and Ishka Folkwell that features an original soundtrack by Nick Bampton and narration by award winning Australian film maker and life long simplest Albert Falzon, who made the seminal 1970 surf film 'Morning of the Earth'.

'Thank You Mother’ was made four years ago and up until now has only been available to a small audience. The film began as a story about the act of creating a surfboard and the art of riding one, exploring the connection between surfer Torren Martyn and his friend, mentor and surfboard shaper Simon Jones of 'Morning of the Earth Surfboards'. This naturally led to the doorstep of another friend and mentor, Albert Falzon and the film became more about connection, creativity and friendship, about surfing, being happy, and living simply.

Shot on location in South Africa, Indonesia and Australia, Ishka Folkwell's original and artful approach to film making captures something of the essence of these places, bringing them to life on screen. Nick Bampton's original musical score was composed for the film, so as Torren Martyn glides with style and power, carving beautiful lines into clean walls, the music echoes the mood and rhythm of his movements perfectly. Perhaps the most powerful element of this creative collaboration between surfers, shapers, filmmakers and musicians is the truth and beauty of Albert Falzons reflections on life. With humility and charisma he offers viewers the keys to a life of contentment, explaining that happiness comes not from having more or being the best, but from having good friends and being kind. 'Thank You Mother' is a film that celebrates appreciation of the simple things and stays with viewers long after they have watched it.

Chief Medical Officer for England, Jonson Cox, Chair, Ofwat, Emma Howard Boyd, Chair, Environment Agency speak out on sewage pollution

Chief Medical Officer for England, Jonson Cox, Chair, Ofwat, Emma Howard Boyd, Chair, Environment Agency speak out on sewage pollution

Professor Chris Whitty, Chief Medical Officer for England, Jonson Cox, Chair, Ofwat, Emma Howard Boyd, Chair, Environment Agency have issued joint ‘opinion piece’ into the seriousness of sewage pollution and the need for water companies to act immediately to reduce their impact. It’s their most vocal contribution yet in the fight to halt sewage pollution.

The report backs claims by Surfers Against Sewage made since 1990, and largely ignore by water companies in the case of stormwater discharge investment, about bacteria and human health, antibiotic resistant bacteria, but falls short of mentioning other worrying sorts of pollution discharge can affect via contaminants such as chemicals, drugs and hormones.

It’s a big step, the next we assume, and should be, will be legal action.

“viable bacteria and viruses are (discharged) as part of normal operations.

“When bacteria from human faeces (coliforms) are ingested, it increases the risk of significant infections including antibiotic resistant bacteria. Keeping human faeces out of water people might ingest remains a public health priority.’

“the principal public health responsibility for ensuring human faeces and viable human faecal bacteria do not get into waterways people might use recreationally rest squarely with the water companies and their directors.”

“Companies should take the initiative and go faster. Regulators will hold companies to account. It is time for wastewater companies to act.”

https://www.gov.uk/government/news/sewage-in-water-a-growing-public-health-problem

If anyone is interested in personal injury law check out

The Carrick V Delaney and Shelley case where High Court judge ordered their local council to reconsider its decision not to issue an abatement order forcing South West Water to halt the continuous sewage pollution of the beach at Porthtowan, near Redruth, Cornwall.
https://www.independent.co.uk/news/mothers-win-a-battle-in-war-for-clean-beach-1303146.html

Chris Hines blog on porthtowanbeach.com contains some good info

1. The Environmental Protection Act 1990 Section 79 Statutory Nuisance (e). basically says that if there is a deposit or accumulation that is prejudicial to health or a nuisance then the statutory body shall (no discretion) issue an abatement notice against the polluter. This law was the subject of a successful Judicial Review of Carrick District Council. The case was a key early success and Surfers Against Sewage were heavily involved supporting the claimants and liaising with the lawyers Leigh Day and Co and working with the media. The case is on record as Carrick V Delaney and Shelley and was taken by two amazing women Sarah Delaney and Rachel Shelley who simply wanted to be able to let their children play on the beach without the gross revulsion and/or health risk of sewage related debris being all over the beach. The Judicial Review was at the High Courts in London and set case precedent for the whole of the UK.

2. The Coroner’s Inquest into the tragic death of 8 year old Heather Preen. Heather died of E Coli 0157 poisoning in 1999. Shortly after her death we (at SAS), were contacted by her parents to see if we could support them in anyway. We were also contacted by local surfers who told us of a CSO on the promenade at Dawlish. When we visited the location the CSO was clear and there was a large puddle of water with bits of human faeces and toilet paper that was on the public footpath between Dawlish and Dawlish Warren. The family confirmed that they walked along the footpath and came into contact with the contaminated puddle. We were called and gave evidence at the Coroners Inquest. During the inquest it was concluded that E.Coli 0157 can be found in sewage. The jury returned a verdict of “Death by Misadventure” not “natural causes”. The Coroner recommendations called for:

A national database to be set up to collate and gather information on all cases of E.Coli 0157.

That UV disinfection should be added to the sewage treatment works for Dawlish.

That warning signs be erected at all Combined Sewer Overflows.

It’s No Yoke.

It’s No Yoke.

This August 13th Taylor Owen Mason will be attempting to set the worlds first record for the worlds longest yoke carry to raise donations for Surfers Against Sewage.

A yoke is a large metal frame used in strongman competitions & functional training to carry huge weights around... Taylor’s going to be flipping this on its head to carry the 60kg frame at least a half marathon this August in just 1 day.

“Surfers Against Sewage is a charity of water lovers campaigning to protect the ocean and all it makes possible. The charity works to achieve its goal of a thriving ocean, thriving people by taking action on the ground that triggers change from the top – a.k.a action from the beachfront to the frontbench.” - Surfers Against Sewage.

Taylor will be completing the event at Porthkerry Country Park with the support of Alun Moseley & Rachel Edwards from Port Talbot and Michael Goode from Barry. All have been supporting his campaign since the announcement last October

Taylor is a surfer & surf photographer from South Wales who just so happens to also be an adventure athlete, doing crazy unconventional sports challenges for charity.

He overcame obesity in his teens and started putting his athleticism to good use in lockdown to raise awareness for mental health research UK, now he says “I’m choosing to focus on something that has been a source of mental wellness, peace and joy in not just my life, but countless others. It only felt only natural to want to protect that & the community of incredible people involved with it”

You can support Taylor’s fundraiser by visiting this link below.

Or you can continue to follow his journey towards the event over on Instagram at @taylorowenmason

2022 PuraVida MiPost Welsh National Senior Surfing Champs crowned

2022 PuraVida MiPost Welsh National Senior Surfing Champs crowned

A sun-kissed Llantwit Major staged the PuraVida MiPost Senior Welsh National Surfing Championships for only the second time in the event’s history. With the Junior event having already run off in May, the Welsh Surfing Federation took the decision to utilise Llantwit Major over the traditional home of Freshwater West. Competitors were blessed with fun, highly contestable conditions thanks to an unseasonably solid swell. Whilst not quite eclipsing the 2011 epic last held in The Vale, the alternative location once again provided an excellent weekend of high- quality competition.

Held on Saturday 11th and Sunday 12th June, the Welsh Surfing Federations showpiece took advantage of a decent swell in the Bristol Channel. Competitors were blessed with breezy head-high waves to carve up in front of the judges and the beach-side crowd.

Saturday brought the more challenging conditions of the weekend, with surfers working hard to thread scoring manoeuvres together on solid, wind-battered faces. The day belonged to Gary Lewis (Welsh Coast Surf Club) whose overall tally of 8.93 was enough to win the over 40s Grand Masters final, just ahead of runner-up Greg Owen (WCSC) who clocked 8.37. Lewis, used his momentum to dominate in the over 50s Grand Kahunas final; a score of 11.33 enabled the Welsh Coast Surf Club evergreen to take the crown.

Gary Lewis: “A lot of paddling to do today, but the sun was shining and there were nice waves so I can’t complain. I haven’t been in the contest for 25 years, so I’m a bit rusty but it all worked out in the end – good fun, I think everyone enjoyed it. It’s great to be back and catch up with familiar faces.”

“It feels great to be champion, it’s always nice to get a trophy in the cabinet especially after such a long time out.”

The bodyboarders sorted out the last of the day’s business, with the final taking place in 2-3ft peaks folding over on Pago’s Peak, a super fickle high-tide slab at the eastern end of Llantwit beach breaking in a foot or two of water. Watched on just a few meters away by an enthusiastic crowd who were treated to a gritty display comprising of barrel-rolls onto the ledge and some very short but intense tubes. The closely fought final saw George Bevan nudge Richard Livock to the top of the scoreboard at the final hooter.

George Bevan: “It was great to contest the finals on a sponger’s wave. It was sick! It’s good to have a division here and represent. It was really fun and a good vibe in the water, lovely weather and a great day all round. Awesome day.”

Sunday brough clean shoulder-high surf was the order of the day to settle the four Welsh titles left up for grabs. With the waves building through mid-morning, the Masters final was quite a tussle. James Jones (Langland Board Riders) ran into a ouple of decent rights to post an overall 12.16 and secure the Masters crown. Runner up, Mark Vaughan (Channel Coast Surf Club) missed out by a fin’s breadth, posting 12.00. Porthcawl’s Sam Moore with a combined total of 11.67 only a fraction behind and out of synch Greg Owen.

James Jones: “The pushing tide definitely improved conditions, so there were more open faces available. I tried to be more patient and wait for the better ones. There was a lot on offer out there and I think having priority helped me, and the wind wasn’t too bad.”
Commenting on his victory: “I just like beating Vaughanie to be honest, on home turf too. I don’t care if I come fourth, as long as he comes fifth, that’s literally all it’s about. I’m chuffed with the win. I only decided to enter the contest yesterday and I’m stoked with the win.”

The Women’s Open final saw a real mix of experience as Pembrokeshire’s next generation: Katie David, Indi Lynch and Poppy Owen took on the past champions of Emily Williams and Joanne Denison who between them share 15 Welsh titles! The Pembrokeshire girls showed committed displays and solid surfing over the barnacle covered boulders to prove that the future of Welsh women’s surfing is in good hands. The greater experience of the past champs battled it out for this year’s title, as the final came down to just 0.5 separating North Wales resident Joanne Dennison and Emily Williams of Channel Coast Surf Club. The girls traded off on the longer running rights, Emily’s vertical forehand versus veteran Jo Dennison’s powerful backhand hooks, it was the extra whip of Jo’s attack that was enough to seal the deal with an overall score of 10.9.

Jo Dennison: “The conditions were quite tricky, just like yesterday, but it’s my first- time surfing Llantwit Major so I’m just happy to be here and excited to try a new wave. My first ride was nice but I couldn’t really find another one, but there were some nice should-high runners if you could get on them.”

“I couldn’t defend my title last year, so I’m just really happy with the result.”

The hotly anticipated Welsh Men’s Open final saw current Welsh champion and semi local, Logan Nicol (CCSC)up against the rapid-fire Patrick Langdon-Dark (LBR), first time and quite possibly the youngest ever Open finalist Eli Perrins Davies (CCSC) and quite likely the oldest ever Open finalist Mark Vaughan (CCSC).

With Llantwit’s infamous rip now in full force, fitness, timing and local knowledge proved to be key! In the battle of the ages, Eli took a notable third place finish ahead of veteran Vaughanie, who having made the finals of three categories, had double the heat count of his fellow finalists, and ran out of steam.

This left Wales top two pros to fight it out. Logan’s understanding of Llantwit’s intricacies gave him a slight advantage and saw him get off to a blistering start. Pat answered back quickly but with Logan locking in two solid scores in the opening minutes, Pat was left chasing his lead. With time ticking away Pat was clearly holding out for a tasty wall to attack that just didn’t materialise. A little slice of history was repeated as Logan’s smart and precise surfing was enough to defeat PLD, who had to settle for second spot.

Logan Nicol: “Conditions were really tricky out there. For me, surfing here a lot with a bit of local knowledge definitely helped, but there was a strong rip current, and I just about managed to pick off the right waves and get the job done.” “Thanks so much to everyone, I’m stoked, just so happy. Obviously, my best mate was in the final, so I’m super stoked to come away with the win. It was a hard competition”

he final piece of the weekends action saw the contest switched from the peak known as The Point over to The Left-Hand Side, a right-hand point break, (yes this is the Llantwit, The Right that’s named The Left) for the Men’s Longboard final, which provided a sparkling curtain closer to the Welsh National Surfing Championships.

Finalists Blake Jones (WCSC), Evan Rogers (CCSC), Arran Bright (CCSC) and Elliot Dudley (CCSC) took turns to impress on reeling shoulder-high rights, with plenty of nose-riding and knee-drop turns keeping the judges on their toes. Consistency was key for multiple European longboard champion, Elliot Dudley who took home the gold thanks to a seasoned performance.

Elliot Dudley: “There were definitely some good waves on offer, they were affected a little bit by currents running through and some wind on it, but there were some that really sat up nicely on the reef and doubled up producing some really good waves.

“It took me a while to get into the flow of it; had a couple of shockers, and then the last couple I had, I manged to get my scores up. That’s the good thing about having a 25-minute final, sometimes you run out of time and end up having to do 15- or 20- minute heats, but this contest has been so well organised; it’s great we’ve managed to have 25-minute finals.”

“I couldn’t do the Welsh last year due to injury, so I missed out, and the year before that there was Covid, so I think it’s been three years since my last contest. It feels great to get the title back, I’m stoked!”

In summary the event was a huge success for the WSF and an excellent locational choice given the conditions available over the weekend. It will be hard to prize the Senior Nationals away from Llantwit in the future

Huge thanks go to:

All our competitors and spectators at Llantwit Major for being part of another great Welsh National Surfing Championships.

A massive thank-you also to our sponsors @puravidaboardriders #MiPost and @power_2go for their terrific support.

A big shout of appreciation also to: Christian Surfers Wales; Sport Wales; and WSA (Welsh Sports Association).

Sarah Jones – Vale of Glamorgan Council
Matt Childs and Louis Evans – RNLI
Maria – Llantwit Major Beach café
Llantwit Major Surf Life SAVING Club
Curtis Hancock and all at Channel Coast Surf Club
Rhydian Brewer – Christian Surfers Wales for their unwavering support of Welsh Surfing.

Photographers – Huw Morgan Williams, Pete Bounds, John Dudley and James Bowen.
Web Cast Team – Tom Anderson, Craig Nicol, Dayana Del Puerto, Joshua Vaughan, Tom Anderson, Rob Blythe and Calum Thomas.

Website & Social Media – Sam Johnson, Steve White, Craig Nicol

Priority Team – Sam Moore, Rudi Perrins Davies, Tim Aylett, and Paul Beatle & Joe Lewis
Beach Marshall – Morgan Hendry
WSF Judges – Jamie Bateman, Craig Garvey, Gwen Spurlock, Emily Williams, Curtis Hancock, Rhydian Brewer, Phil Saddler, Mark Vaughan, Tim Aylett Head Judge – Craig Burrows

Refresh Live Scoring – Tim Aylett

Contest Directors – Huw John and Mark Vaughan

Full Results – 2022

Bodyboard

1. George Bevan; 2. Rich Livock; 3. Tai Jackson; 4. George Boucher

Grand Kahunas (over 50s)

1. Gary Lewis (WCSC); 2. Colin Bright (CCSC); 3. Neil Newman (LBR); 4. Craig Burrows (CCSC); 5. Simon Blower (PSC)

Grand Masters (Over 40s)

1. Gary Lewis (WCSC); 2. Greg Owen (WCSC); 3. Simon Page (LBR); 4. Mark Vaughan (CCSC)

Masters (over 35s)

1. James Jones (LBR); 2. Mark Vaughan (CCSC); 3. Sam Moore (WCSC); 4. Greg Owen (WCSC)

Men’s Longboard

1. Elliot Dudley (CCSC); 2. Evan Rogers (CCSC); 3. Arran Bright (CCSC); 4. Blake Jones (WCSC)

Women’s Masters

1. Joanne Dennison

Women’s Open

1. Joanne Dennison, 2. Emily Williams (CCSC); 3. Indi Lynch (PSLSC); 4. Katie David (PSC); 5. Poppy Owen (PSC)

Men’s Open

1. Logan Nicol (CCSC); 2. Patrick Langdon-Dark (LBR); 3. Eli Perrins Davies (CCSC); 4. Mark Vaughan (CCSC)