Finders Keepers

Finders Keepers

This episode started without any premeditation. I ordered my brother Dane a “surprise” Pat Rawson single fin for his birthday this year. The plan was to order it to be finished when we arrived in January. I hadn’t spoken to Pat in a long time but upon first call sometime in October we chatted for almost two hours. It was so nice.

My dad was a sales rep for the brand Local Motion from the mid 80’s through the 90’s. We were adopted kids for most of the people at that brand during that time and we stay in touch with them to this day. Even though I hadn’t spoken to Pat in quite some time we had a lot to chat about and catch up on.

When we arrived to pick up the boards Pat had an old Local Motion in the shaping bay and we were talking about it a little bit. He said things he was working with Jack Reeves creating more and more of these nostalgic local motion shapes again.

I went home and started to craigslist my way through the islands trying to find a Rawson Local motion. Although I didn’t end up finding that specific board I did end up discovering a very good condition board with a spray similar to what Tony Moniz used to ride in the 1990’s.

After buying that board from a neighbourhood craigslist broker, we chatted with Tony, then caught up with former owner Rob Burns, and ultimately rode it on a bitchin’ day at Rocky Point.

We learn through the process that Tony had a signature spray with red and yellow celebrating his Hawaiian heritage, and that this board was most likely a stock surfboard made in the same era with a Red and white spray. We learn a little about the history of the brand known for cutting edge shapers and designs through the 90’s and show that the board is still red hot.

I would personally like to thank Don King for allowing us clearance to use the archival footage. This footage is found in an old Local Motion VHS movie we grew up watching called “a little bit of Hawaiian Style”. This was our education on what to know when going to Hawaii. Showing respect to mother nature, the locals and their culture and challenging yourself are the core beliefs that I still take with me to this day.

I hope you enjoy this episode. It was such a blast to make. Fun to connect with old friends and create some new memories.

Thank you again for the support – Tanner Gudauskas

Medina And Moore Victorious

Medina And Moore Victorious

• Gabriel Medina Wins First CT Event Since 2021
• Carissa Moore Earns 27th CT Victory
• Griffin Colapinto Earns Second Runner-up Finish of 2023
• Tyler Wright Makes Back-to-Back Finals
• More Available at WorldSurfLeague.com

Gabriel Medina (BRA) and Carissa Moore (HAW) won the Western Australia Margaret River Pro, Stop No. 5 on the World Surf League (WSL) 2023 Championship Tour (CT), today in solid four-to-six-foot surf at Main Break. With their big wins today, Moore and Medina made significant moves up the rankings and now sit at World No. 2 and No. 7, respectively, on the rankings.

The Mid-season Cut narrowed the field to only the Top 22 men and Top 10 women, who will continue competing through the back half of the 2023 CT season. After earning a runner-up finish here at Margaret River, Tyler Wright (AUS) will wear the yellow Leader jersey going into Stop No. 6, the Surf Ranch Pro. Joao Chianca (BRA) held onto the ranking’s lead with his Semifinal finish today and stays in the top spot on the rankings. Competitors will now shift their focus to making the Final 5 to be able to compete at the WSL Rip Curl Finals and have a shot at the 2023 World Title.

Gabriel Medina Wins First CT Event Since 2021

Gabriel Medina (BRA, above) reminded everyone why he’s a three-time World Champion today, taking a dominant win over Griffin Colapinto (USA) in the Final with the highest heat total of the day, a 17.50 (out of possible 20), which included a near-perfect 9.50 (out of possible 10). Medina built momentum throughout the event, taking down current World Champion Filipe Toledo (BRA) in the Quarterfinals and current World No. 1 Joao Chianca (BRA) in the Semifinals.

This marks Medina’s 17th CT career event win and his first ever at Margaret River. After taking a break in the first half of the 2022 season and having a slow start this season, there is no doubt Medina has come back with force.

“It’s pretty special to win here,” said Medina. “It’s a venue where I’ve struggled to make heats. It felt good to have good waves and get the win. I’m feeling better now just feeling like I’m in the rhythm again. Griff (Colapinto) and I always have good battles. I love competing against the guys, and that’s what we’re here for. It’s a really hard wave to surf, and I’m happy with my improvement.”

Medina and Colapinto started the Final with an explosive back-to-back exchange. Colapinto got the better of Medina, earning an excellent 8.17 (out of a possible 10). But Colapinto struggled to find a backup score for the remainder of the heat. Meanwhile, Medina was in rhythm with the ocean, throwing his backhand attack at the large Main Break walls. His critical turns right in the pocket earned him two excellent scores, and the event win. Medina’s win marks the first time a goofy-foot man has won Margaret River, CT in 33 years.

Griffin Colapinto (above) Earns Second Runner-up Finish of 2023

Colapinto’s second Finals appearance of the season was well-earned, as he had to take out fierce competitors along the way. In one of the biggest upsets of the day, Colapinto overcame two-time World Champion John John Florence (HAW) in the Semifinals. Florence had established himself as the one to beat here at Margaret River, going excellent in all of his heats leading up to the Semifinals. But, it was Colapinto who went excellent in their matchup with an 8.50 and 9.00 by capitalizing on set waves with opportunity. Colapinto is now the only man to have made the Finals twice in 2023. After this solid result, he now sits at No. 4 on the CT leaderboard.

“I’m most proud of that heat against John [Florence],” said Colapinto. “He got me last year, and I kinda surprised myself in that heat to beat him like that. It was a feather in my cap. He’s probably the GOAT out here, so that was the highlight of my day. Against Gabe [Medina], you have to go all in. Every section I got, I wanted to go as big as I could. The rest of the heat, I didn’t pick the best waves. Congrats to Gabriel. He seems super into it and super psyched on competing and life, and it makes it fun for everyone else, too when you can feel the passion. Stoked to have him back.”

Carissa Moore Earns 27th CT Victory

Carissa Moore (HAW) earned her second event win of the season and her 27th overall CT career win today at Main Break. The five-time World Champion now has a third Margaret River win to her name after taking down two-time World Champion Tyler Wright (AUS) in the Finals. Now, Moore hopes to overtake Wright, who currently holds the World No. 1 position, as she’s in striking distance at No.2.

“It was a crazy week and a crazy month being away from home, it’s a roller coaster,” said Moore. “Coming here, the doubts were starting to creep in. But, I really felt the love and the joy from this community and I want to say thank you because I couldn’t have done it without that good energy. I didn’t see Tyler’s (Wright) wave so I thought I might have wasted my opportunity, but I just thought it’s up to the universe at this point.”

The women’s Final was a battle of two World Champions and former Margaret River Pro event winners. After a slow start, Moore took the lead by showcasing her trademark wrapping carves to post a 6.10. Wright had one more opportunity right before the horn but mistimed the end section and the score came up short.

Tyler Wright Makes Back-to-Back Finals

Tyler Wright (AUS) made her second-consecutive Finals appearance today and her third of the 2023 CT season. On her way to the Finals, she overcame eight-time World Champion Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) in the Quarterfinals. She then went on to face an in-form Caroline Marks (USA) in the SemifInals. Marks held the lead going into the second half of their matchup, but Wright found a gem of a set wave and posted an excellent 8.50 to take the heat win.

“Carissa’s been an incredible competitor and to have another Final with her was amazing,” said Wright. “It didn’t go great for me in that Final, but I’ve had a wonderful week and a wonderful Australian leg. I haven’t been in that position for a long time. I really like what I’m doing at the moment and how my team has worked with me in the last year to position how I want to be. I’m just settling into the whole process again. I don’t expect much, but I really enjoy doing this work.”

For a third consecutive year, local favourite Bronte Macaulay (AUS) claimed an equal third-place finish at her home event in Margaret River. The talented goofy-footer was in solid form all week after winning the Local Trials before eventually falling to Moore in the Semifinals. Macaulay will hope to take her momentum into the Challenger Series season opener, the Boost Mobile Gold Coast Pro, which starts next week at Snapper Rocks.

With Margaret River determining who made the Mid-season Cut, the remaining CT competitors will now prepare for the back half of the season, beginning with the Surf Ranch Pro, which will run on May 27 and May 28, 2023.

For highlights from Finals Day at the Western Australia Margaret River Pro, please visit WorldSurfLeague.com.

Western Australia Margaret River Pro Women’s Final Results:
1 – Carissa Moore (HAW) 11.10
2 – Tyler Wright (AUS) 9.17

Western Australia Margaret River Pro Men’s Final Results:
1 – Gabriel Medina (BRA) 17.50
2 – Griffin Colapinto (USA) 12.27

Western Australia Margaret River Pro Women’s Semifinal Results:
HEAT 1: Carissa Moore (HAW) 12.50 DEF. Bronte Macaulay (AUS) 4.07
HEAT 2: Tyler Wright (AUS) 15.33 DEF. Caroline Marks (USA) 11.34

Western Australia Margaret River Pro Men’s Semifinal Results:
HEAT 1: Gabriel Medina (BRA) 12.50 DEF. Joao Chianca (BRA) 10.67
HEAT 2: Griffin Colapinto (USA) 17.50 DEF. John John Florence (HAW) 11.27

Western Australia Margaret River Pro Men’s Quarterfinal Results:
HEAT 1: Gabriel Medina (BRA) 14.00 DEF. Filipe Toledo (BRA) 7.00
HEAT 2: Joao Chianca (BRA) 11.24 DEF. Connor O’Leary (AUS) 5.50
HEAT 3: Griffin Colapinto (USA) 11.77 DEF. Barron Mamiya (HAW) 8.83
HEAT 4: John John Florence (HAW) 14.83 DEF. Ethan Ewing (AUS) 11.23

Next Stop: Surf Ranch Pro

Kelly Slater and Johanne Defay Awarded WSL Season Wildcards for 2023 and for the First Half of 2024

Kelly Slater and Johanne Defay Awarded WSL Season Wildcards for 2023 and for the First Half of 2024

Kelly Slater and Johanne Defay Awarded WSL Season Wildcards for 2024 and for the Back Half of 2023 Championship Tour; Miguel Pupo and Brisa Hennessy Awarded WSL Season Wildcards for 2024

Slater’s Wildcard Revival Puts Him Back in Contention for WSL Final 5 and Provisional Olympic Qualification

The Season Wildcards give Slater and Defay entry into Championship Tour (CT) events following the Mid-season Cut and entry into the first half of the 2024 CT season. Miguel Pupo(BRA) and Brisa Hennessy (CRC) have been awarded the 2024 WSL Season Wildcards, which give entry to all competitions in the first half of the 2024 CT season.

Slater, as a former World Champion, and Defay, as a previous Final 5 competitor, will earn ranking points as the Season Wildcards and thus will be eligible for the WSL Final 5 rankings, where the Top 5 surfers on the men’s and women’s CT will compete in the Rip Curl WSL Finals to compete for the 2023 World Title. Slater’s ranking points will also give him the opportunity to compete for provisional qualification for the Olympic Games Paris 2024. Defay’s provisional qualification for the Olympics was confirmed last week at the Western Australia Margaret River Pro.

The WSL is the Tier 1 pathway to qualification for the world’s best surfers to the Olympic Games. Of the 48 athletes competing in the games, the Top 18 competitors (10 men and 8 women) will qualify via the 2023 WSL Championship Tour’s final rankings. Each country can only qualify a maximum of two men and two women.

11-time World Champion Slater is regarded as the greatest competitive surfer of all time, holding nearly every major record in the sport, including 11 World Titles, 56 CT victories, and being both the youngest and oldest World Champion in men’s history. He’s had a huge influence on the sport through his progressive surfing, competitive nature, and wave system technology. Slater’s incredible career started with winning Rookie of the Year in 1990 and spans more than three decades. He won his first World Title in 1992 and his most recent Title in 2011. In 2022, Slater claimed his 56th CT victory at Pipeline, just a few days before his 50th birthday. Now at age 51, Slater is in search of adding yet another World Title and a provisional Olympic qualification to his name.

MARGARET RIVER, WESTERN AUSTRALIA, AUSTRALIA – APRIL 20: Brisa Hennessy of Costa Rica surfs in Heat 3 of the Opening Round at the Western Australia Margaret River Pro on April 20, 2023 at Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia. (Photo by Aaron Hughes/World Surf League)

Defay has finished in the Top 10 every year on the Championship Tour since qualifying in 2014. She competed in the Rip Curl WSL Finals in 2021 and 2022, finishing fourth and third, respectively, on the world rankings. Defay represented France at the Olympics Games Tokyo 2020 and is set to make her second Olympic appearance as she has provisionally qualified for the Olympic Games Paris 2024.


As the 2024 WSL Season Wildcards, Pupo and Hennessy will be eligible to compete in the first half of the 2024 CT. Pupo sustained an ankle injury in Portugal, forcing him to miss the Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach and Western Australia Margaret River Pro. Last season, Pupo climbed up the rankings to a career-best sixth-place finish after his break-through victory at the Tahiti Pro. The 2024 CT will mark the 31-year old’s 12th year on the CT. Hennessy made it all the way to the Rip Curl WSL Finals last season, finishing fifth in the world, a career best. In 2020, she represented her home country of Costa Rica at the Olympic Games Tokyo, where she finished fifth. She was recently confirmed as one of the first surfers to provisionally qualify for the Olympic Games Paris 2024.

The WSL Season Wildcards are selected by the WSL Tours and Competition team following applications from athletes. The wildcard selection process takes into account competitive performance, such as World Titles, CT and Challenger Series rankings, and event results, as well as a medical evaluation if applicable.

“With the rankings for the Mid-season Cut completed, we’ve announced Kelly Slater and Johanne Defay as the WSL Season Wildcards for 2023 and 2024, and Miguel Pupo and Brisa Hennessy the Season Wildcards for 2024,” said Jessi Miley-Dyer, WSL Chief of Sport. “The WSL Rule Book allows for only former World Champions and previous WSL Final 5 competitors to be eligible to earn points in the second half of the season as the Season Wildcards. Kelly and Johanne meet those criteria, so we look forward to seeing them complete the CT season. We also look forward to welcoming back Miguel and Brisa in 2024.

The Jesus Longboard Classic

The Jesus Longboard Classic

Surf predictions for the 15th Jesus Longboard Classic were quite difficult this year. Contest director, Phil Williams, was pretty convinced there would be waves for Sunday but with over 80 competitors registered, both days of surf were required, so the Christian Surfers UK team certainly put some time into praying for the right decisions to be made and for enough waves on the Saturday to complete the 22 heats which were run.

The event, which is held at Polzeath Beach in conjunction with the Tubestation and organisers Christian Surfers UK, is traditionally one of the last longboard events of the season. However, for 2023 it was brought forward to the month of April and therefore took place just one week after the BLU event in St Ives.

The event covers six categories and is always sold out on most of them, although this year there were a few less in the Women’s Open category due to the fact that it clashed with the Mexi Log Fest.

The Christian Surfers crew gathered on Friday night to set up the venue along with the Tubestation staff and were back on site at 7am on Saturday morning ready to go with the hot drinks and breakfast which were free to competitors and well received.

All were very relieved that there were enough waves to begin the heats at 9am and the contest ran seven heats before a three-hour hold due to the big spring tides decreasing the small but clean swell. However, when the tide turned again there were some great waves ridden all the way up till the end of the first day at around 7 pm. It’s fair to say that the judges, beach marshals, and all those involved with contest on the beach had every weather under the sun thrown at them with some torrential rain, so huge thanks to all of them as well as Era Water Safety looking after the event.

Saturday night meant as usual a good community gathering in the various restaurants and pubs around Polzeath which is a highlight of the event, as the longboard community come back together.

Traditionally finals day on Sunday, always starts with a very special event for the Christian surfer’s team which is a simple ‘surfers blessing’ at Tubestation Church, inviting surfers, their support crew, CSUK as well as the local church community to reflect on something relevant to start the day off, and for those wishing a blessing of sea water.

Following the thought provoking surfers blessing the contest got underway with 18 further heats. Surf for the Sunday was a bit bigger than Saturday, and still clean until midway through the day, when the winds turned north-westerly and messed up the surf, but there was still contestable waves right throughout the event until the final final finished just after 4 pm.

Some excellent surfing in all divisions, and when it came to the finals all the heats were pretty stacked. In the over 60s event a great performance by Colin Bright saw him take the victory ahead of fellow Llantwit surfer Peter Cosier, with Backwell’s Ben Keay in 3rd, and the legend that is Minnow Green taking fourth spot.

Moving through the age categories in the over 50’s a new name on the trophy, St Agnes surfer Matt Thomas with a commanding display throughout, taking the title. Rich Emerson pushing him all the way in second, with Colin Bright and Ben Keay taking third and fourth spot respectively.

The over 35’s division is always one of the most popular divisions, and once again was oversubscribed, this year there was a new name on the trophy, Hayle’s Nicolas Keruzec, taking the victory with strong performances right the way through the competition. Another dark horse unknown to this event Tom Fisher from the Gower, surfed strongly in second place and Ashley Braunton and Chris Thomson took third and fourth place respectively, all surfing really well.

The under 18’s (mixed event) always showcases the future of the longboard sport in the UK, and on form St Agnes surfer Arthur Randell retained the trophy ahead of welsh surfer Blake Jones. Seth Reed from St David’s took third, and it was great to see Sylvie Puddiphat pushing the boys all the way in 4th.

There was a new name on the trophy for the women’s title with Jen Pendlebury and Tina Beresford both from Newquay area taking first and second, with Polzeaths Mali Harbour and Georgia McCulloch also surfing strongly into third and fourth.

The open men’s final despite the onshore conditions was a real close battle with Bantham’s Ben Howey eventually taking the title he won a few years ago, but being pushed all the way by Ashley Braunton, Nicolas Keruzec and Tom Fisher.

The presentation took place in glorious sunshine on the side of the hill by Tubestation, a fitting end to what was a tiring, but very enjoyable weekend for all involved

A massive thanks for all involved in putting on this really successful event and in particular for all of the surfers who competed in some tricky conditions, the beach-based CS volunteers, and of course everybody involved with running the event and the hospitality back at Tubestation. Era also did a great job with the water safety.

Without sponsors this event could not happen so a huge thank you for those that have been involved in previous years, Nineplus, Finisterre, Georges Surf School, Kosin and Ocean Frog, and a big welcome to new sponsor 10Oversurf. Also a big thanks to British Longboard Union, and Hotdoggers for ongoing support, and Jamie at Surfline, for great up to date Surf Forecasts.

Photos: Andy Holter.

The event forms the first part of the Jesus surf series with the second part taking place in Croyde over the weekend of September 9th & 10th with the 31st Jesus Surf Classic.

If anybody would like any more information on Christian surfer’s, log onto christiansurfers.co.uk or the Facebook Pages Christian Surfers UK or Jesus Surf Series CSUK

First official ‘Adaptive Surfing Hub’ in England opens in Croyde

First official ‘Adaptive Surfing Hub’ in England opens in Croyde

Photos: Roy Riley

The first official surfing centre specifically for people with disabilities has opened in Croyde, North Devon, on 21 April, following a partnership between Surfing England, The Wave Project and Surf South West surf school.

It is the first time that Surfing England, the national governing body for surfing in England has officially designated a surf school an official ‘adaptive surfing hub’. The award recognises many years of work of The Wave Project, who have been a major part of the growth of adaptive surfing in England. A fundamental aspect of this was the creation of an Adaptive Surf volunteer training program, co-written by the Wave Project and Surfing England, which the charity provides free to volunteers and surf coaches to raise standards in the industry. All this has been made possible with the support of local surf school Surf South West which has been at the forefront of the adaptive surfing movement.

The new centre offers a ‘centre of excellence’ for people with disabilities who want to try surfing or improve in the sport, providing highly trained coaches and the latest adaptive surfing equipment to enable people with all disabilities to take part in the sport.

Adaptive surfing (also referred to as para surfing) runs parallel to typical surfing. It means that we can make modifications to the equipment, the environment, and possibly the people that will allow people with disabilities to engage in surfing. Through making these modifications people can participate in surfing with greater independence, comfort, and confidence.

Photos: Roy Riley

For both The Wave Project and Surfing England, seeing more adaptive hubs across England is an important part of the discipline’s development, and ensuring more people can access the ocean, as we strive to see more diversity in the line-up. To be designated an adaptive hub, a range of criteria are considered, such as qualified and experienced coaches, facilities, equipment, location, and access. To be recognised as our first adaptive surfing hub is a huge achievement for Surf South West and their collaboration with The Wave Project, and the much deserved recognition of their many years of hard work.

The Wave Project began offering surfing lessons for people with disabilities in 2012, when it pioneered a special surfing course for people with learning disabilities and Down Syndrome in partnership with Cornwall Council.

The charity moved to North Devon in 2013, and began its partnership with Surf South West surf school in Croyde. The Wave Project offered surf therapy to local young people, including those with disabilities, and began to develop new techniques and equipment to make surfing more accessible to all. It was the beginning of a 10-year journey to get to where they are today, now delivering over 150 adaptive surf sessions a year, and offering specialist adaptive surfing lessons to over 100 young people a year – like George Palmer, who was diagnosed with cerebral palsy, epilepsy, and a visual impairment.

Joe Taylor, CEO of The Wave Project, said;

“We are delighted to be working with Surfing England and Surf South West to open this pioneering new facility for people with disabilities. Thanks to the leadership shown by Surfing England, the sport of surfing has made great progress in the past decade, becoming more inclusive and accessible to all. The new Adaptive Surfing Hub in Croyde is the next key step in this journey to making surfing a sport for everyone in the UK.”

On the global agenda, adaptive surfing is currently being considered as a sport for the Paralympics. Surfing England have been at the forefront of this since 2017, when they delivered the first ever English Adaptive Surfing Open, a contest now runs annually that welcomes adaptive surfers from across UK and further afield to surf and compete. This has inspired a whole host of surfers and coaches, and adaptive surf hubs are a fundamental part of the pathway of the sport. The team at Wave Project and Surf South West have been supporting the events each year, demonstrating both parties’ commitment to enabling more adaptive surfing.

Hannah Brand, Operations Manager for Surfing England said:

“The development of adaptive/para surfing in England is a key focus for us and it’s hugely exciting to designate our first official adaptive surfing hub, after an extensive consultation into the best way to develop the discipline that was conducted in 2021. We have incredible athletes winning medals on the World stage, and with paralympic bids in for surfing the development of the pathway is paramount. We are immensely proud of the collaboration between The Wave Project and Surf South West and are excited for the future of adaptive surfing.”

The Wave Project, Surf South West, and Community Interest group Access for All have all worked tirelessly together to create a real vibrant hub for inclusive surfing, with the ambition for the surf school to be recognised as an Adaptive Surfing Hub by Surfing England. Between the various groups, they have amassed an abundance of specialised equipment and a fantastic changing facility, that was the ‘dream’ of Nicki Palmer, the mum of George, who has worked so hard to achieve her dream and finally got this purpose-built Changing Place on site.

Alongside these physical attributes for an accessible centre, but just as important, are the people driving this. The determination and enthusiasm of Ian Bennett, Adaptive Lead of The Wave Project working closely with Hannah Brand of Surfing England and Will Houston and John Ellis the owners of Surf South West have got us to this point.

On Friday 21st April, we officially launched our Adaptive Surf Hub. It will be a great benefit to our local community, but also to a much wider audience. We have already had visits from people from all corners of the UK, to come and experience the benefits of surfing at one of the premier surf destinations in England, even more notable now North Devon has been awarded World Surf Reserve status, one of only 12 in the world!

This will be a real celebration of adaptive surfing as we unite for a bright future to grow the sport and see more people surfing.

Windswept Land

Windswept Land

Small crew on a very windy island, here is Windswept Land. filmed by Antonio Saraiva and WhiteFlagProduction. edited by Simon Levalois.

Special thanks to Robertney Barros for making this trip possible – @tim_bisso