The Isle
Enjoy the dynamic duo Matt Meola and Albee Layer in this action packed final episode!
Enjoy the dynamic duo Matt Meola and Albee Layer in this action packed final episode!
Hi its Albee. First off please watch this on something bigger and louder than your phone!
Recently I suffered a head injury at Jaws. It’s a month out and we are still not sure how well I’m recovering. After talking with several doctors the basic analysis is if I continue the next 5-10 years like I have the last 5-10 years I am at very high risk for CTE and other brain related complications.
I was already planning to make this edit but it came at a very important time. Going through several years of highlights and slams has helped me start to look at some big questions, mainly is it worth it. Are the highs of surfing this wave now, worth the physical and mental pain its very likely to cause later in life, and… I HAVE NO IDEA. I wish I did but I don’t. I’m sure like everything in life it’s about finding a balance.
I was already planning to make this edit but it came at a very important time. Going through several years of highlights and slams has helped me start to look at some big questions, mainly is it worth it. Are the highs of surfing this wave now, worth the physical and mental pain its very likely to cause later in life, and… I HAVE NO IDEA. I wish I did but I don’t. I’m sure like everything in life it’s about finding a balance.
As of right now I fully intend to get back out there and redeem myself but I also know if I make a few more of the same mistakes I’ll end up not being able to do a lot of the things I love to do, or surf “small” waves good again.
So this edit is basically my own form of therapy trying to figure out where to go from here. I do know I wouldn’t trade the moments I’ve had so far for anything in the world.
Parallèle- n.
It is similar to something else, but exists or happens in a different place or at a different time.
“Our time in Tahiti made it abundantly clear that even though we speak different languages, Hawaii and Tahiti cultures are two of the same. We parallel each other with trust in protecting each other and the environment, personal values, gratefulness, generosity, and the desire put others before ourselves. In a nut shell, the spirit of Aloha lives far beyond the Hawaiian waters. Our Tahitian experience was greeted with a warm smile and beautiful Pikake flowers for the crew. The Tahitians are some of the most beautiful humans to walk this planet, or in our case charge some of the most death-defying waves. For the next 8 minutes we hope you enjoy an experience we will never forget. “ – Dakine Ohana
Cool summer vibes in the middle of our cold and stormy winter is always well appreciated. Ride with Albee Layer, Brian Toth, Leif Engstrom in Puerto Rico.