Heaven is on my side

Heaven is on my side

“Heaven is on my side” is a short film born of the desire to portray my friend and big-wave surfer João “Massas” de Macedo’s unique relationship with the giant waves of Nazaré, one of deep gratitude and respect, both for the wave and the whole community that surrounds it. Plus he absolutely charges out there, so to get a front-row seat to that, both on competition and non-competition days, was an absolutely incredible opportunity I jumped at. As if shooting big-wave surfing wasn’t hard enough though, we decided to shoot on Super 8 film, to keep the crew to a minimum and also to create a timeless aesthetic that reflected the location and themes of the film. Thanks to all those involved in making this happen. - Marco Espirito Santo @marcoespiritosanto

The Surfer and the Sage

The Surfer and the Sage

The Surfer and the Sage - A Guide to Survive and Guide Life’s Waves seeks to provide hope and inspiration to those on life’s rocky road.

"As COVID affected our lives, it seemed as though the average individual's mental health started to change for the worse. Feelings of disappointment, confusion and anger started to arise. Legendary world champion surfer, Shaun Tomson, is no stranger to depression. After losing his son, Tomson walked the bitter road of loss and crossed from darkness into the light."

The Surfer and the Sage addresses the eighteen relentless, breaking waves of life, from loss and ageing to relationships and depression, and guides you to transformation. While this book cannot provide clinical help, it can provide spiritual guidance and inspirational hope. International bestselling poet-philosopher, Noah BenShea, provides insight on a path of purpose, hope, and faith. It is not a list of rules to follow that guarantee success, health, or wealth, but rather a collection of advice from two guides who have traveled far and wide and suffered deeply, but still look forward to tomorrow with hope and faith.

The Surfer and the Sage by Shaun Tomson and Noah BenShea is available from 7 June, 2022 Price: $17.99 from bookstores, online booksellers and directly from familius.com or from amazon here, £12.99

"Some great insights into riding the waves of life. If you surf, read this book. If you don’t surf, read this book."
 — Carissa Moore, surfing Olympic gold medallist and five-time world champion

The Surfer and the Sage by Shaun Tomson and Noah BenShea is available from 7 June, 2022 Price: $17.99 from bookstores, online booksellers and directly from familius.com or from amazon here, £12.99

"Some great insights into riding the waves of life. If you surf, read this book. If you don’t surf, read this book."
 — Carissa Moore, surfing Olympic gold medallist and five-time world champion

Nias Bombs

Nias Bombs

The first solid swell of the Season hit the Lagundri Bay heavy, lots of unridden double ups, specially around high-tide, perfect looking but really fast hollow tubes.
Also not really any crowd with two days of epic waves, broken leashes, broken boards and happy faces!
Enjoy this recap.

@rubyandthesunn on a bomb above Photo: @eliaswyndaleo

Day 3 of ISA World Juniors

Day 3 of ISA World Juniors

A rising, long-period swell provided excitement on Day 3 of competition at the 2022 Surf City El Salvador ISA World Junior Surfing Championship. The pumping peaks of La Bocana belonged to the U-16’s, with the U-18 field encamped at the somewhat slower El Sunzal.

Round 2 of the Main Event was completed in every division. All 419 competitors still have a chance to win gold, but the first repechage round is now filled and eliminations will begin Tuesday morning.

Erin Brooks - Canada Photo: @Nateperryphoto

Erin Brooks (CAN) delivered the highest single wave score of the event so far, a 9.67 in the U-16 Girls. A massive forehand lip gouge was responsible for the majority of the near-perfect score. Brooks is ready to bring more, however.

“My 9.67 was super fun. It was one of the biggest waves of the heat and I wanted to push myself but not over-surf the wave. Hopefully during the period of the contest there’s some good air sections so I can show more progressive surfing.”

Eden Hasson (AUS) had the goal of opening with an excellent score and that’s exactly what he achieved. An 8.33 in the early moments, combined with a 7.50, handed him the highest heat total of the day for Boys U-16 (15.83). Hans Odriozola (ESP) flew through a gigantic backhand floater, followed by a two-turn combo, for a well-earned 9.50 and the highest single wave score of Boys U-16.

Luke Thompson (RSA) ripped multiple turns on a well-selected wall at El Sunzal for a 9.00, the highest single wave score of the Boys U-18. Combined with a 7.10, the South African also claimed the highest heat total of the division.

Luke Thomson - South Africa Photo: ISA / Jersson Barboza

Breaking through the barrier of excellence in Girls U-18 allowed Genesis Borja (ECU) to collect the highest single wave (8.57) and heat total (14.24). Puamakamae Desoto (HAW) also found excellence, with her backhand attack landing her an 8.17.

Garnering a non-priority interference in the first few minutes wasn’t how Jackson Dorian planned to start his all-important Round 2 heat, but it wasn’t going to stop him. Sitting in fourth place with under a minute to go, the 14-year-old used precocious heat strategy to hold strong till the last minute.

“There were a couple waves that came through and I decided not to paddle for the first couple because I didn’t want anyone sitting on me,” he said. “I wanted to hold onto priority and not risk losing it. So I waited and then the last one I one hundred percent knew I was going to catch and that was the one I got so it was really scary.”

Driving straight into a huge section on one of the biggest waves of the day, the 8.00 score he received rocketed him to first place as he continued his charge through the Main Event.

The daughter of two former professional snowboarders, Tya Zebrowski is turning heads at just 11 years of age. The Team France member, who splits her time between Hossegor and Tahiti, opened her Girls U-16 heat with a 7.50.

“It is my first time into the ISA World Junior Championships. I am so happy to do the heat and to win. The waves were so perfect. I had fun.”

Tya Zebrowski - France Photo: ISA / Sean Evans

Trinidad and Tobago might not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of surfing nations, but Cheyenne Patino is aiming to change that.

“The biggest dream I have is to go to the Olympics and I’m going to make that dream come true by working hard.”

She may be the youngest female competitor at 10-years-old, but the Trinbagonian is here to win heats.

“It feels great to be the youngest competitor cause I can show people how young I am and I can still beat some people.”

ISA President Fernando Aguerre said:

“The young talent on display here in El Salvador has been truly amazing. These incredible junior surfers give us a glimpse of the future. I have no doubt we are witnessing many future Olympians on these beautiful waves.

“We already know that the comraderie that we are seeing across all of the teams will continue into the careers of these athletes. It’s wonderful to know that every single surfer still has the chance to win gold here in El Salvador.”

The 2022 Surf City El Salvador ISA World Junior Surfing Championship will be broadcast live until June 5 on isasurf.org.

The event schedule is as follows:

May 31 – June 5 – Competition at La Bocana and El Sunzal
June 5 – Closing Ceremony at El Sunzal following the close of competition

Sick Midwinter

Sick Midwinter

There’s something special about surfing through the winter; empty beaches, quieter roads, cold fresh winds and consistent swells. The Atlantic Ocean comes alive, it's a cold water paradise awash with surfers of all ages, check out the grass roots edit, filmed and edited by Caleb Giddens @calebgiddensmedia

G-Land Comes To Life

G-Land Comes To Life

The Quiksilver/ROXY Pro G-Land, Stop No. 6 on the World Surf League (WSL) 2022 Championship Tour (CT) and the first competition following the Mid-season Cut, kicked off its opening day in super clean, three-to-five foot waves at the ‘Money Trees’ section of G-Land, the world-class left-hand stretch of reef located on the eastern tip of Java. The competition ran the women’s and men’s Opening Rounds on a fairly level playing field as it was the first time the current CT surfers had ever competed in this location, except for the 11-time World Champion and 1995 event winner Kelly Slater (USA).

World No. 1 Brisa Hennessy (above)  and World No. 2 Carissa Moore Continue to Lead the CT
The second heat of the day saw three of the event favourites in Johanne Defay (FRA), ROXY wildcard Bronte Macaulay (AUS) and current rankings leader Brisa Hennessy (CRI) matchup for in mid-tide conditions with turns playing the biggest part in earning competitors scores. With a slight wobble in the waves, all three competitors focussed on turns and the performances didn’t disappoint, with less than a point separating the trio. Hennessy was able to clinch the win and progress into the Quarterfinals while Macaulay and Defay will battle it out in the Elimination Round.

“I think all the ladies are in the same boat here having a new experience,” Hennessy said. “Getting used to things here at G-Land, how far out it is, being in the middle of the jungle, it’s cool, just being able to disconnect and focus on yourself. I’m feeling really at home here. Growing up in Costa Rica, and spending time in Hawaii and Fiji, I feel like this place is a combination of all of those places. I’m just embracing all of the beauty here along with time with all of my fellow competitors. All the girls on tour are really rad and we are all really connected on land, then when we’re in the water it’s game time.

As the tide dropped, swell filled in and trade winds started to puff, G-Land began to show its potential with open tubes and long stretched out walls, much to the delight of five-time WSL Champion Carissa Moore (HAW, above), who found the first tube ride of the event. Moore tucked into a long tube before sneaking out for an 8.33 (out of a possible 10) to back up her 8.83, netting her an excellent two-wave total of 17.16, the highest of the opening day of competition.

“That was super fun out there,” Moore said. “I actually haven’t had any barrels here in the practice sessions but I have been watching a lot of videos and seeing what it can offer so I was really excited to see that one stand up so I could just set my line and hope for the best. It’s so fun to be surfing a left like this again. I feel like It might take me a while to get used to it but I’m feeling good and am excited to get back out there.”

Rio Waida Upsets World No. 1 Filipe Toledo
Current World No. 1 Filipe Toledo (BRA, below) had his opportunity to get one back on Indonesia’s Rio Waida (IDN, above) after he eliminated him early at the Corona Open Mexico at the end of the 2021 season when they matched up today in Heat 4 of the men’s Opening Round. Waida, who is fresh off a win at the recent GWM Sydney Surf Pro Challenger Series event, comes into his home event in serious form, which he continued today, taking down Toledo once again as well as fancied goofy-footer Nat Young (USA).

Stephanie Gilmore and Tatiana Weston-Webb Claim Critical Opening Round Wins
After finishing the 2021 season at the inaugural Rip Curl WSL Finals in fifth and second place respectively, no one expected to see Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) and Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) only just scraping in above the Mid-season Cut at the Margaret River Pro. Today at G-land, the pair got their season back on track, each booking themselves a spot in the Quarterfinals with impressive heat wins in the Opening Round.

In the heat immediately after Moore’s tube ride, Weston-Webb (BRA) also found some shade from the Javanese sunlight, pulling into a long tube before coming out and gouging two massive frontside hooks to post an excellent 8.67, the third-highest single wave of the opening day.

The first-ever women’s heat at G-Land witnessed seven-time WSL Champion Gilmore taking a narrow win over Isabella Nichols (AUS) and Californian veteran Courtney Conlogue (USA) in an all-natural footer matchup. Not known for her prowess in lefts, Gilmore was happy to get the nod in her opening heat at the ROXY Pro as conditions slowly improved on opening day.

“I couldn’t really hear much out there and thought I was in third,” Gilmore (above) said. “I thought I’d just enjoy being out there not knowing what was going on and just come in and get the result old-school style then when I was paddling in I heard the score and was really happy. That was a really big win for me as my backhand isn’t my strong point and I really want to get a solid result here. It’s so cool to be here. I’m so glad ROXY and Quiksilver and WSL have been able to put this on. The conditions aren’t the best at the moment but I think it will keep getting better all day. I don’t think anyone cares too much at the moment if it’s two-foot or ten, we’re all just so happy to be here.”

Two-time WSL Champion John John Florence A9bove) Unfazed by Knee Injury
Having recovered from multiple injuries to both of his knees in recent years, the surfing world held its collective breath when John John Florence (HAW) arrived at his Opening Round heat in a massive knee brace. The two-time World Champion had tweaked his MCL while free-surfing yesterday and put the brace on as a precaution and it didn’t show as he smashed huge backhand turns and critical floaters to comfortably win his heat and progress into the Round of 16.

"Unfortunately yesterday morning I kind of tweaked my left knee, maybe my MCL,” Florence said. “It’s been a bit of an emotional rollercoaster for me. I was thinking about pulling out of the event then did some work with the medical staff then had a surf this morning and felt okay so decided to keep at it. I was so nervous before that heat because I still didn’t really know what it was going to feel like but it ended up feeling fine and having no pain so I’m really stoked to get the heat win and now I’m just really excited for the rest of the event. It’s amazing to be here in G-Land competing, the waves are perfect, light offshores, no one around, it’s special to be surfing out there basically on my own.”

For highlights from today's Quiksilver/ROXY Pro G-Land, please visit WorldSurfLeague.com.

ROXY Pro G-Land Opening Round Results:
HEAT 1: Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 10.40 DEF. Courtney Conlogue (USA) 9.90, Isabella Nichols (AUS) 8.30
HEAT 2: Brisa Hennessy (CRI) 13.83 DEF. Bronte Macaulay (AUS) 13.27, Johanne Defay (FRA) 13.20
HEAT 3: Carissa Moore (HAW) 17.16 DEF. Gabriela Bryan (HAW) 15.04, Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) 9.30
HEAT 4: Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) 15.17 DEF. Tyler Wright (AUS) 12.67, Lakey Peterson (USA) 9.16

ROXY Pro G-Land Elimination Round 2 Matchups:
HEAT 1: Tyler Wright (AUS) vs. Bronte Macaulay (AUS)
HEAT 2: Courtney Conlogue (USA) vs. Johanne Defay (FRA)
HEAT 3: Isabella Nichols (AUS) vs. Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS)
HEAT 4: Lakey Peterson (USA) vs. Gabriela Bryan (HAW)

Quiksilver Pro G-Land Opening Round Results:
HEAT 1: Ethan Ewing (AUS) 13.37 DEF. Jadson Andre (BRA) 12.67, Jordy Smith (ZAF) 12.33
HEAT 2: Jack Robinson (AUS) 11.54 DEF. Kelly Slater (USA) 8.34, Jackson Baker (AUS) 7.17
HEAT 3: John John Florence (HAW) 13.94 DEF. Yago Dora (BRA) 11.67, Kolohe Andino (USA) 7.00
HEAT 4: Rio Waida (IDN) 11.83 DEF. Nat Young (USA) 11.66, Filipe Toledo (BRA) 10.80
HEAT 5: Italo Ferreira (BRA) 15.16 DEF. Jake Marshall (USA) 9.67, Caio Ibelli (BRA) 6.53
HEAT 6: Griffin Colapinto (USA) 14.00 DEF. Kanoa Igarashi (JPN) 9.64, Matthew McGillivray (ZAF) 8.46
HEAT 7: Miguel Pupo (BRA) 12.77 DEF. Barron Mamiya (HAW) 11.37, Connor O'Leary (AUS) 10.07
HEAT 8: Gabriel Medina (BRA) 11.70 DEF. Samuel Pupo (BRA) 8.20, Callum Robson (AUS) 6.14

Quiksilver Pro G-Land Elimination Round 2 Matchups:
HEAT 1: Filipe Toledo (BRA) vs. Yago Dora (BRA)
HEAT 2: Caio Ibelli (BRA) vs. Matthew McGillivray (ZAF)
HEAT 3: Kanoa Igarashi (JPN) vs. Jackson Baker (AUS)
HEAT 4: Jordy Smith (ZAF) vs. Connor O'Leary (AUS)
HEAT 5: Barron Mamiya (HAW) vs. Jadson Andre (BRA)
HEAT 6: Kelly Slater (USA) vs. Samuel Pupo (BRA)
HEAT 7: Callum Robson (AUS) vs. Jake Marshall (USA)
HEAT 8: Kolohe Andino (USA) vs. Nat Young (USA)