From the 1970s, the obsession of many of surfers is to go in search of “New” waves. Since then, many spots have been discovered. However, there are still a few portions of unexplored coasts which Patagonia is part.
Five years of exploration and preparation later and the Lost in the Swell team access one of the most hostile stretches of coast on the planet, located in Chilean Patagonia. With a oceanic polar climate and huge storms generated around Antarctica coming down on the coast, it’s on one of the most inhospitable coasts on the planet.
I’ve been gathering footage for the last three or four years – all my best waves from around home in the West of Ireland – and I got to the point where I felt comfortable that I had enough for a good clip. The Doolin Surf Film Festival was coming up, which is a really cool event, and I wanted to screen the film there. I also wanted to help out the filmmaker Joao, a younger guy who is super talented. So, between the two of us, because we’re both on the same wavelength, this was what we came up with.
Framed is a very apt name for this film, because you’re also a picture framer. How did you get into that?
I was always interested in woodwork. I made furniture when I was younger, and I’ve worked as a carpenter. I just love to work with wood.
I have a big interest in art and framing is almost an artform in itself. It’s beautiful to see how the frame can contrast with the painting.
I have a little workspace at home, plus a workshop ten minutes from my house. My workspace is actually in my boardroom at the back of my house, so I’ll have to move my boards outside soon to make more space for my tools.
Over the years you’ve always tipped the work / life balance scale towards surfing. Has that been a conscious decision?
I’ve always worked to surf. Surfing’s been such a big, positive part of my life and getting in the sea on a daily basis, or whenever I can, and when the waves are good, has always been so important to me.
So I’ve always juggled work to make that happen, and, in the past, that might have meant doing three to four months of solid building work, back home in Cornwall, so that I could then focus on surfing again for a while. Now I can just do a few days of picture framing at home and then go surfing when it’s good. Patagonia has also enabled me to go on trips and kept me warm with suits, so I make it work.
You’re from Cornwall, but you live in Lahinch [West Coast of Ireland]. What was it like transitioning between those two surf scenes?
When I moved to Lahinch it was always a struggle trying to make things happen with work, so I’d go back and forth a bit. Then Moy Hill Farm came up and many of my friends from Cornwall moved over, so the scene grew.
It can be a hard existence here in winter, and this winter was a particularly cold and bleak one with months of bad waves, so it’s not always easy. It can feel a bit too much at times, but there are some great moments in amongst it, and there are some really interesting people living here because it’s a healthy place to be, close to the sea with a lot of positive things going on as well.
Could you tell us about Hometree?
One of the positive things happening here is Hometree, a tree planting initiative, spearheaded by surfer Matt Smith. They’re on a mission to reforest as many areas of Ireland as possible, but with only native species of tree. The last Saturday in every month, they get people together to plant trees. Some of them are donated and some are reared in their own nursery. They invite everyone along on social media, we have a cup of tea, we do some planting and we all eat together afterwards. They’re connecting likeminded people every time too, which is always a good thing.
Young Mr Robinson has just dropped his b-grade edit for the up and coming Snapt 4, yep you heard us right, this is deemed not worthy enough for his section?
Snapt 4, the follow-up to Logan 'Chucky' Dulien's 2017 Snapt 3 (obvious, sorry), $40,000 is on offer for the "best" surf section. Looks like Jack has drawn a line in the sand, we're amped for the a-grade to drop.
Some of the 16 surfers taking part are as follows, Jack Robinson, Mason Ho, Clay Marzo, Seth Moniz & Josh Moniz, Asher Pacey + more. You can check out the trailer for Snapt 3 below.
Join us as we delve into the Carve Classic archives for some all time trips, welcome to The Cave, originally featured way back in issue 182.
Words Sharpy Photos Toby Butler/O'Neill
The Algarve nubbin of Portugal is a winter bolthole for surfing Brits, giving respite as it does from the cold tendrils of our long winter. Empty beaches, awesome seafood and unfettered access to that glowing ball of fire in the sky are all plus points. Obvs question: what the hell is it like in the summer? We thought we'd find out...
The jet stream had been hugging the UK like an overly amorous wet dog so shooting a sunny, summery, bunch of shots for a certain wetsuit company in Cornwall, Devon or Wales was a big ask. If the brief was 'drowned rat chic with a hint of flash flood' then we'd have had no problem. But it wasn't and Mama Nature has got her gears stuck in 'like winter, but about 5˚C warmer' grey funk mode. So we had to hit Plan B. Which was to go sarf, so to speak. Chasing the sun. Which with Europe literally cooking in a heatwave on the flip side of errant jet stream wasn't too much of a stress. Only issue was being summer hols in Europe means getting accommodation at short notice for a decent sized crew was a tad tricky. So bereft was the entire Algarve of a place to suit we ended up in Portimao. Where that you say? Well it's in that bit of the Algarve you drive past blindly from Faro airport to get to the good bit of the Algarve from Lagos westwards. Plus side Port' has very big supermarkets, a Decathlon and some fine food joints. Not to mention an 11th floor penthouse apartment big enough for our mob.
I got there earlyish with Peony Knight and Nelson Cloarec, so we baggsied good rooms, and as folks drifted in on various flights from distant corners of Europe the crew assembled. Only Skindog and Lukas were missing, but their flight direct from Newquay (who knew?!) got in late. One thing we didn't think of: 11th floor penthouse apartments are all well and good when you're board bag fits in a lift. If it don't, and Ben's 10-foot coffin sure as shit didn't, it means that some bugger has to carry the thing up 11 flights of stairs ... Even better when it's still 30C plus at midnight. Crew assembled we began our mission, exploring the dusty tracks and remote beaches of the west. The empty beaches we know and love in the Algarve are a different beast in the summer. Parking is an issue. Get there for the dawnie and it's no bother. Anything past ten a.m. and you're struggling. Especially on the prettier south coast stretch. In the water it's still quiet, sure there are a million surf schools, but out back is mellow. So far so good. After a few days of fun surfs, toste mistas and galaos we had to get some funky lifestyle shots. That thing that all surfers hate. So we did some Googlerising and Noah Biersack came up with a fruity looking cave that you could only access from the ocean. Sounded like an option. A huge natural space with a skylight that you had to get a boat to; unless you were a very strong swimmer. Everything we read reinforced the 'ooh pards its a tricky old swim unless you're a reet good ocean swimmer' kinda vibe. So we figured paddling it on boards would be no issue. Us photogs could just risk the swim...
The photos all showed a virginal cavern, empty apart from the photographer capturing it's glory hole. They didn't quite prepare us for the reality. On one of the few days the always reliable west coast waves were a bit shit we gave up goose chasing and called a cave mission on. Thinking we'd rock up, paddle round, shoot some stuff and be home in time for tea. As we descended the narrow valley to the beach nearest the cave it was obvious we'd misjudged. It was rammed. And the nearest carpark was on top of the next headland... It was also about 40C. Some smart arse thought we could get to the cave from the next beach, so off we wandered, ill-advisably in our wetties. Of course the next beach was surrounded by 80-foot cliffs. On the upper limit of acceptable cliff jumps. So by the time we'd retraced our steps and got down to the right beach we were, let's just say, a "bit" sweaty. The little beach was packed. Much like I imagine an afternoon in Ibiza would be, lots of beautiful people crammed together. They gave us funny looks walking through with surfboards and camera housings. We jumped in and began the long, arduous paddle/swim to the cave, after all they do boat trips to the cave from the beach so it must be some fair old distance...
After a solid 45-seconds swim to the tip of the cliff we could see the cave entrance. Yep. Couldn't have been more 'just round the corner' if it tried. Still good ruse the locals have got going with the 20 euro a pop boat trips. You could actually float round to it without too much stress. Some five year olds had managed to do it on their inflatables so it was not the challenging crossing it was repeatedly made out to be. The cave itself, was of course, not empty and serene. It wasn't a cathedral to geological processes fit for reflection on the majesty of the planet. It was busy with people and thanks to the two sea side holes the boat tours could drive in and out. Which also made it stink a bit of boat engine fumes. Like most much hyped natural phenomena it was the victim of it's own beauty. But and here's the kicker, amongst the summer tourist hell on the surf free part of the Algarve coast there was a little wave breaking.
The small wind swell would periodically wedge off the wall and zip across the gravelly bank in a virtual shore break. The tide was coming in and we didn't have anywhere else to be so we hung out to see if a bit more water on the bank would make it a random but rideable lil runner. Sure it was a mission on a shortboard but those ruddy annoying logs that were causing Ben so much exercise on a daily basis finally came in useful... With a bit more water on the bank Ben quickly figured out the right ones. Wait for the wedge, few strokes and he'd launch and off cross stepping and hanging five across little green gems in a totes famous tourist cave. It was one of the most surreal sights I've seen in surfing. But we'd not quite seen it all... The tourist boats from the beach that ferried folks (generally whinging about being stung for €20) in so they could raise the phones in sync and nail the Insty shot before being driven out 15 seconds later were small fry. Massive party boats rocked up as well. So big they couldn't do the drive thru so they'd just stick their beaks in. Which ended up with the very bizarre situ of a party boat full of nubile youths cheering as Ben, Nelson, Noah or young Portuguese ripper Guilherme Ribeiro took off in the wave cave. This was in summer with a little wind swell ... What the hell happens in winter in there remains to be seen?!
Kelly Slater, Rob Machado, Taylor Knox, Shane Dorian, Benji Weatherly, Ross Williams, Timmy Curran, Kalani Robb and Keith Malloy with a soundtrack from Pennywise, Sprung Monkey, Unwritten Law, No Knife, Youth Brigade and Pegboy, What was not to like!
Two Eyes is Rob Lockyear and Jeremy Joyce, childhood friends and lifelong surfing buddies. Their different take on surfing his pretty hilarious so tuck in for an hour of fun.. Freezing, #Vanlife and The Shaper.
