Skookumchuck Narrows

Skookumchuck Narrows

Welcome to the Skookumchuck Narrows, a tidal rapid that is well known by tide enthusiasts and kayakers for its massive standing wave and insane whirlpools…
In this video, I’m linking up with one of the first surfers I’ve heard of to frequent this place, blending the lines between surfing and kayaking… and getting to experience the special place these two worlds meet.
Special thanks to Nick Legge-Wilkinson, and the kayak crew, Marco Colella, Pat Corcoran, Jacob Mermelstein, Sophie Gilfillan for sharing your world with me. What a cool experience. This one is seared into the memory banks. Dylan Graves

Filmed by:
Dave Malcolm

Additional footage:
Dylan Graves

Archival of Elijah Mack:
@RiverSurfing

Double Vision – A Billabong Team Surf Film

Double Vision – A Billabong Team Surf Film

What’s better than a boat trip to the Mentawais, unlimited beers with a bunch of mates and pumping waves? Absolutely nothing!
 
Jump on board the Mangalui as the Bong team dig into a week of madness sharing bunks, haircuts, beach-fires and enjoying the wildness an honest boat trip brings!
 
Starring Joel Parkinson, Creed McTaggart, Eithan Osborne, Jai Glindeman, Tai Buddha and Bronson Meydi, shot in the Mentawai Islands and created by Thomas Crews and Tom Jennings. 
Torren Martyn

Torren Martyn

Torren Martyn describes this perfect day from the Calypte voyage when timing, ocean conditions, and a bit of luck all aligned.

‘Before the trip I remember so clearly thinking how amazing it would be to just have one really memorable session with our little home bobbing away in the channel and how it would just be a dream come true. That was certainly the day, I couldn’t believe what was happening around me, the unridden perfect waves that were coming through and the fact we’d just landed ourselves in the right place at the right time, it was such a miracle.’

What made that day stand out as the best surf of the Calypte voyage?
Before the trip, I remember so clearly thinking how amazing it would be to just have one really memorable session with our little home bobbing away in the channel and how it would just be a dream come true. That was certainly the day, I couldn’t believe what was happening around me, the unridden perfect waves that were coming through and the fact we’d just landed ourselves in the right place at the right time, it was such a miracle.

Tell us about just how perfect those waves were?
Yeah, no words really, it was mind boggling. I was pinching myself.

What did you do afterwards to celebrate or reflect on the experience?
We sailed a couple of hours back to a safe anchorage, dropped the anchor and cracked a beer or maybe it was beer then sail then anchor then beer. We ate, cheers’d and slept well that night.

Ishka did an incredible job filming the day in what looked like challenging conditions.
He really did! The morning started off very stormy and unruly. I hadn’t seen that wave before nor did I know the reefs around it, at the first couple of signs of surfable waves that steamed down the reef we had a look for a keyhole to drop Ishka to the beach and by the time we’d found a relatively safe little spot the ocean had cleaned itself up and I was in shambles to get out there and test the waters.

Did that day influence the rest of your voyage in any way or your approach to surfing in general?
I remember that day as one of the best days of my life. It really fuelled my curiosity of surfing and searching for waves, I’m not sure if it was a blessing or curse to be honest.

The soundtrack song to this section is really catchy – those guys are Indonesian musicians?
Yeah I love that track, it’s just so funky! The band Ali are from Jakarta, Indonesia and the track is called ‘Downtown Strut’. I’m grateful that needessentials invested in such an epic range of music for the Calypte film.

How is fatherhood and do you have any future adventures planned?
Fatherhood has been the greatest adventure yet, it’s a trip! As for future films and adventures, I don’t know if anything will compare to the whole Calypte experience but Ishka and I are planning a wild little sailing trip early next year, this time on a much smaller vessel(s).

Kengoria Surf Academy, Japan

Kengoria Surf Academy, Japan

Kengoria Surf Academy
Located in Miyazaki, on the beautiful island of Kyushu in South West Japan, Kengoria Surf Academy has been delivering exceptional surfing experiences for 11 years. Founded by Kengo Nakasako, a prominent Waterman and professional surfer within Japan’s big wave community, Kengoria benefits from Kengo’s extensive local knowledge and infectious enthusiasm for the area. He’s always eager to share the beauty and fun of Miyazaki with newcomers!

About Miyazaki
Operating primarily at Aoshima, a renowned beach featuring a picturesque small island with a vibrant shrine set against a subtropical jungle backdrop, Aoshima town mixes rich Japanese culture with a laid-back island vibe. The area offers an array of restaurants, hotels, hot springs (onsen), and activities. Conveniently located just 20 minutes south of Miyazaki Airport and the train station, it’s a uniquely accessible spot that feels unlike anywhere else in Japan.

Just a short drive from Aoshima, you’ll find the stunning Nichinan coastline, known for its dramatic cliffs and beautiful beaches, perfect for exploring and surfing. Cape Toi, located further along the coast, offers breathtaking views and is a fantastic spot for outdoor activities. Both locations are ideal for those looking to immerse themselves in the natural beauty of Miyazaki while enjoying a variety of surf spots.

Miyazaki is one of the most popular surfing areas in Japan, along with Chiba and Shonan. All are home to some great waves however none can compare to the rich mixture of culture and surfing that Miyazaki has to offer. This is why it has hosted the ISA world surfing games, WSL QS events and many more.

Surfing Season
Summer kicks off in June, bringing long sunny days and consistent waves, while the typhoon season starts in late August and runs through November, bringing bigger swells. The jagged coastline of Miyazaki boasts numerous surf spots, from long beaches to point breaks and river mouths, catering to all skill levels. With water temperatures ranging from 25°C to 29°C, peaking in August, board shorts and rash vests are essential! However, from October to November, you might want to wear a short wetsuit for longer sessions because of the cooler air temperatures.

Kengoria Academy Experience
For the best surfing experience in Miyazaki, our private surf guide package is the way to go. Kengo or another skilled team member will choose the best surf spot of the day based on conditions and your skill level. This package includes transportation and the chance to enjoy delicious local cuisine, including famous Miyazaki dishes like chicken nanban and fresh seafood.

Having a local guide who speaks Japanese can be incredibly helpful, as it allows for better communication and understanding of local customs and etiquette. At Kengoria, our staff is fluent in both English and Japanese, ensuring a smoother and more enjoyable experience in the water.

While the surfing community is extremely friendly, there are specific etiquette rules at certain spots, so having a local guide is invaluable. With a variety of surf spots close together, you’ll enjoy less crowded waves and more time catching waves. Our team can also provide professional photos or videos of your surf session, creating lasting memories of your fantastic day!

What Kengoria Offers

• Lessons supervised by a Level 2 ISA coach
• A selection of surfboards to choose from
• Local expertise in selecting the best surf spots each day
• Assistance with hotel and car arrangements
• Hotel pick-up and drop-off for your convenience

Join us at Kengoria Surf Academy and experience the thrill of surfing in one of Japan’s most beautiful locations!

Check out our website and contact us for any inquiries.

Roller Coaster

Roller Coaster

Gearoid McDaid’s 2023/24 season has been a rollercoaster. After recovering from a major injury, he made a strong comeback with a second-place finish at the European Championships. However, the following months brought mixed results, testing his resilience. In 2024, Gman surfed some of his best waves of his life at Mullaghmore but suffered a setback with a serious shin injury. Despite this, he remains determined, using his recovery time to rebuild and return stronger for the next winter season.

Life is a roller coaster! An interview with G Man. Film by Clem McInerney.

What were your plans for the 23/24 season?
My main goals were to catch as many good waves as possible and try to qualify for the Olympics. I was fired up after a tough year with injuries, but although the winter wasn’t great, there were still some standout moments.

Do you set goals or take things as they come?
I definitely set goals—qualifying for the Olympics and pushing myself in bigger waves. Balancing competition prep and chasing slabs at the same time is tough, so I had to adjust based on the conditions.

How were you feeling going into the 23/24 season compared to the previous year?
I felt much better this time around. The year before, a hip tear slowed me down, but it also pushed me to focus on strength training. Unfortunately, I got injured again, but it was just bad luck.

What were your highlights?
Coming 2nd in the European Surfing Championships and those special sessions at Riley’s, just me and Conor Maguire. Towing each other into bombs with no one else around was unbeatable.

What were your low points?
Losing in the Olympic qualifier after starting strong. The forecast turned bad, and I struggled in sloppy waves. Now, my leg injury has been the biggest setback, but I’m hoping to be back for the winter swells.

How did you feel after the injury?

It hit me hard at first—I was worried I’d miss the whole winter. Luckily, it doesn’t seem as bad, and I’m hopeful to be back soon.

What’s next, and what have you learned from this?

I’m learning to take things as they come and enjoy life outside of surfing, like playing golf. It’s been a fun summer of golf and cruising, which has helped me slow down a bit.

Cornish birthdays galore / Newquay surfing celebration

Cornish birthdays galore / Newquay surfing celebration

Last weekend saw a memorable set of birthday celebrations as Rock’s Sharp’s Brewing Co joined with Carve Magazine, Newquay Boardriders and Lusty Glaze to celebrate all of their collaborative milestones.  2024 is Sharp’s and Carve’s 30th birthdays and it’s the 55th year of Newquay Boardriders and the 25th for the team at Lusty Glaze Beach.  So, the Cornish surf community joined together to celebrate the 140 years of milestone success.

Whilst the sunbeams worked their Cornish magic, the surf wasn’t quite as epic as hoped. However, several local teams were undeterred, and they took to the waves for some fun challenges in the Carve X Sharp’s Offshore Pilsner Tag Team Surf Competition, organised by Newquay Boardriders.

Looe and Newquay ruled the results tables with the following placings overall: 1st Looe A (Captain Ed Smith), 2nd Newquay Boardriders A, 3rd Looe B and 4th Newquay Boardriders B.

Then from 6pm onwards, the joint Birthday Social kicked off with the surf comp prizegiving followed by DJs Pete Isaac of Jelly Jazz and Bude’s B Side Social Club taking to the decks.  Partygoers enjoyed a mix of funk, soul, breaks, and beats, alongside the stone baked pizzas and hot and cold drinks that were available all day and night for those on the beach. 

Tracey Griffiths of Lusty Glaze said, “This was a rare opportunity for the Newquay and Cornish surf community to come together and celebrate, and everyone involved had a really brilliant time.  It was great to stand back in the sunshine, with the surfers in the water, and reflect on everything we’ve achieved with our brilliant team here over the last 25 years. It was also great to be with the awesome people from Carve, Sharp’s Brewing Co and Newquay Boardriders and just feel the good vibes. Thanks to everyone who joined us.” 

Steve England, Editor of Carve Magazine, says, “We can hardly believe it’s been 30 years that we’ve been producing and printing the mag.  Over those three decades we’ve published 224 editions and also a whole load of books.  Sometimes you do need to stand back and consider all the work, faith and investment that’s gone into all that – and to take time to celebrate.  When we heard it was also Sharp’s 30th celebratory year, it just became the no-brainer thing to get us all together on one of the Newquay beaches for a surf contest.  Then we found out about the Lusty Glaze and Newquay Boardriders’ anniversaries too and it just all chimed! What a day!”

Nick White, Brand Activation Manager, at Sharp’s Brewing Co, says, “We’ve loved working in partnership with Carve, and its sister magazine SurfGirl, over the decades and we’ve got the same love for what we do in common, so it just made perfect sense to come together with the Cornish surf community on one of our favourite beaches – Lusty Glaze.  We are stoked that the crew at Lusty Glaze Beach suggested hosting an event to celebrate our birthdays in style. It was a super-fun contest with Newquay Boardriders and an epic night with our friends from B Side Social Club and Pete from Jelly Jazz providing the beats.”

Zoe Sheath of Newquay Boardriders said, “We may not have had the most momentous surf ever, but we certainly made the most of it and all our involved surfers had an utterly brilliant day and night.  55 years of club surfing is certainly an achievement and Newquay Boardriders has a lot of very exciting news and happenings to come in our 55th year.”

No alcohol drinking whilst surfing occurred during this event. 

Gallery Photos: Ben Hartley