Carve Magazine Issue 224

Hello and welcome to issue 224!

Autumn just doesn’t seem to cut it compared to autumns past. No idea why. Scientists are baffled too. Despite warm water and all the indications of a booming hurricane season, the Atlantic switched off (at least at the time of going to print it had, but our fingers are still crossed). Anyway, to remind you of good times, September swells and crisp offshores, we rounded up some of the best autumn shots we could find of the UK and Ireland. You can find them on page 82. If we collectively manifest, maybe we can all get a few decent surfs before Christmas! Back in the 00’s I took a crew off to Ecuador to explore the coast. Our host and new friend Eddie Salazar took us on an adventure and we’ve remained friends ever since. In 2000 he moved to the Galapagos Islands to run surf charters but, like many of us, as he became more attached to the place he wanted to do more. It’s not just about the waves, it’s the ambience, the people and just some kind of serendipity and intuition that tells us it is where we are meant to be.

That place could be the likes of Brighton’s surf and skate spots that Grant Winter features on page 22, but for Eddie it was a small island in the middle of the Pacific. After making it his home, he went on a mission to remove non-indigenous plant species in order to protect the local fauna and flora, and bring the area it back to its natural glory. And he’s winning! Read his remarkable story on page 48 and if you’re inspired by it you are invited go and join him. Earlier this month we announced Gary McCall as the winner of the dryrobe® x Carve Photo of the Year competition, for his photo of Lucas Chumbo at Mullaghmore. It is outstanding! Despite our exposure to short clips and addiction to various apps on our phones, there is still something utterly mesmerising about a photo in print which captures the beauty and drama of surfing in a single moment. Gary’s shot did exactly that, so we catch up with him for a chat on page 56.

Speaking of amazing surf shots and their enduring nature, our cover shot had us absolutely spellbound. There is something unfathomable about the power and thickness of the wave, the colour, the depth and control of the ride by Keala Kennelly, and the positioning of the photographer – legend Tim McKenna. It is mind-blowing and we couldn’t stop looking at it. Still can’t. The fact it is from 2016 adds to the kudos deserved by both surfer and photographer. Simply put, it’s one of the best surf shots and rides of all time. And there’s more: Barnaby Cox leaves home to find waves and work in tropical paradise, we go on an adventure through Chile, and big wave surfing in Tasmania. As you thumb through these pages I would encourage you to take a moment to take in the detail of each shot – the colours, the wave form, the way water is flowing beneath boards, or the curl of the lip. Each wave, each ride, each moment is unique. It is a truly amazing thing. Then go out and create your own moments and hold them in your mind’s eye. They will last forever, through good and bad times, and lead you on paths you may never have dreamt of.