Trying to ride a little between sets wave up the reef to exit the session. But end up being sucked across the near dry slab & dropped off into the keyhole gulley. RAW GoPro POV & land footage of being blasted against, up and out of the gulley. Escaping with a bruised hip, a snapped fin & a few dings.
Incidentally, in the hurry to get in the surf, I forgot to screw up one of the front side fins, only to realise out the back before the first wave. Fortunately it stayed in fine for the whole session.
The 2nd ride here gives another angle and perspective of the the sink hole to avoid getting caught in.
Everything happens fast at once, this slow motion ride allows for time to also appreciate the backwash of the cliff, gurgles the entire way, the mass of barely wet reef in front of the wave, the backdoor section. Being on the outside rail in the tube counteracting the suck as it barrels, the bend in the wave that goes off the reef – Ian Battrick
