📸 @jeromebrouilletphotography

As you may have seen (!) local lad Kauli Vaast has been riding monsters over the weekend. This is his account of this, what he calls a ‘Wave of lifetime’. Pretty epic stuff!

Give him follow!

“Wave of a life time!!

“That day, I was waiting 3 hours with my tow partner @battahiti!! When that wave came, I saw the biggest mountain of water I’ve ever seen coming. It was my turn and I just went for it !! I was focus and so ready to go!

“Since I let the rope, it was the most complicated line I’ve ever draw on a wave !! I saw all the boats disappear for their lives while I was taking off this beast! I saw all the bumps on my way, all the water from the bottom was sucking up so much !! I could feel the energy behind me and I knew I had to trust my line and not fall.

“After that, I thought I could come out over the top of the wave but it wasn’t done yet, the wave was still barreling and I just went over the falls !! In the water, the initial thought was that I would die!!

“I went straight to the bottom and trust me or not but the wave literally broke the reef and I could grab pieces of it in my hands in middle of the wipeout!!! And I new at this moment that I should come up and paddle for my life !!

” I had few second to breathe before that second 15 footers come to my face and I just went for the biggest duck dive of my life haha. Made it through the channel safe and fine 🙌🏼🙏🏽💯
“Best memory ever, lucky to be alive!!

“I really realised what I’ve done when I saw the pictures!! ”

Sounds horrendous to me. Maybe if it was a right… maybe not… lol

Full wave here