I had a friend who wanted one last wave. He was young with cancer, stuck in a hospital miles  from his friends and ocean. Every week I rang him up to tell him I was going to bust him out. One day the phone was answered by someone else.

If you know about dementia you know how cruel and debilitating it is. If you have been out of the water through illness or injury you will know how tortuous it is. So I love his post. A few good blokes helping a dying man fulfil his dream of one last wave. It’s a small foamie on a booger, but I bet it felt like Waimea.

“Yesterday an elderly lady came up to us at the beach and asked if we could help fulfill her husbands wish to ride a wave one last time. She said that he is suffering from dementia and most likely has a year to live. What an amazing experience and on my birthday none the less!”


Thanks to Derek at Beach Grit for the find. Made my day .