This winter was a big one for me, the first time in my career where I had self funded everything and I was hungry to score some good waves and content, I wanted to prove to myself that I was good enough but also show other people that I could surf too.
Before I knew it September came around and G-Man gave me a call telling me there was a swell coming in. I flew across the same day and stumbled into a fortnight of the best waves I’d ever seen. I’ve been going to Ireland during the winter since I was 15 thanks to the kindness of the McDaids and what turned into a quick visit accidentally turned into three months, which was actually cut short because I tore my hamstring tendon connecting to my knee via a tasty 10ft lip landing on my leg, but hey few months later when I started to walk again I was back out there! Every time I go to Ireland I meet more and more of the locals and they have all been so welcoming and humble to me, it feels like a home from home.
Scoring waves and getting content during the UK’s winter months is damn frustrating. Pumping surf but unfilmable sessions hidden within the months of howling wind and rain, but then there’s an hour period when the weather gives you your golden ticket and it all becomes worth it.
We chased swells across Ireland, Scotland, Kernow, England, and Portugal, by this time my summer job savings were running low, so I was in full budget mode living off strictly pastal de natas and Ucal chocolate milk, not the healthiest time of my life but we were scoring waves and that’s all that mattered. My love for pastal de natas died during a dawn surf check that ended in Lidl bakery and after spending 6 euro on 15 custard gems, because the boys insisted it was impossible, I attempted to eat them. A slight dizziness and dry heaving in the car park but apart from that … challenge complete.
Budgeting in Ireland isn’t hard as long as you have a chicken fillet roll a day you should have enough money backed up for a few Guinness with the lads on a Saturday night. It was a funny one because every time we chase a swell or a day this winter we always came back unsatisfied after being squished for the fourth time in a row then a handful of times average sessions would just turn on and that’s what this edit came down to, a couple sessions here and there, but you never know when these magic moments will be, I guess why that makes them so special.
Big shout out to Clem for all his hard work behind the lens! Also to all my other Irish crew, the Strandhill massive, Bundoran boys, and the Lahinch lads for being so welcoming and friendly. I’d also like to thank the McDaids, the Pearces, Josie, mum, Fourth Surfboards, Xcel, FCS and all my other close friends in Kernow for their love and support.
This edit is just a little teaser for what is coming, I feel like I haven’t released anything since I was 16 and doing cutbacks at high tide Fistral isn’t really an edit ha-ha! I would love to have some backing and support to really show what I can do.