Koa Smith on the best wave of the day at Skeleton Bay the other week, getting eight barrels on one wave, travelling over 1.5km in distance and surfing the wave for 2 minutes! According to the drone dude at least. Let’s not think about the hours of travel and toil that went into actually getting there for this one internet sensational wave… But glad you did.
My whole day surfing I try to get that one dream wave that I want to experience. I picture it clearly. What it will look like. How it will feel. The emotions pouring out of me when the wave is complete. Then this happens 🙂