That thing that drives us. For me it’s surfing, surfing has taken on so many different forms as surfers try to find the perfect way to ride a wave from nose riding on a nine foot longboard to tow surfing into some of the biggest waves on the planet. But my passion, my drive has always been focused on performance. I always want to try and push my board’s performance and my body’s ability on a wave. How high can I air, how rotated and corked can I get out into the flats, how deep can I get in the tube and still make it out or how hard and fast can I push this turn.
My whole life has been completely dedicated to this one pursuit and now more than ever the hunger and fire inside to progress burns.
I live eat and breath this way of life and I love it.
It’s what drives me… Alan Stokes
See the first part of the Innerscope series here…