“Clearly I could see by Google Earth that there was a endless left pointbreak hidden, but I never imagined how difficult would be reach that spot. My plan was to climb a over 3,500 meter mountain and from there check the coveted left. I did not know what exactly I was going to find there, but the very essence of adventure is precisely in uncertainty.
I thought that five hard days of trekking through the Amazon jungle would be enough to reach the top of the mountain. It took 22 days of survival experience. I ran out of food so I had to feed myself with fungi and, thanks God that I hunted a moose, otherwise I just would not be here comfortably sipping a cup of coffee, writing down what happened there.
I also feel the obligation to appoint my two colleagues and friends in this odyssey. A book by Jack London “The wanderer of the stars” and the picture of my spiritual guide who I always carry in my wallet: Captain Sparrow. Without them I would never have found the strength to get there.
After more than three weeks hiking, I finally reached the top of the mountain and from there first sighted the sea. I could not believe my eyes. A mysterious city, apparently built by the Inca civilization, stood before the majestic pointbreak. The sight of the point, those eight lines perfectly formed waves, that was the most beautiful thing I’ve seen in my life. For a moment I thought that this scenario could be the result of delusions caused by a potentially hallucinogenic mushroom that I had desperately ingested along the way. But no, That was really happening and I was privileged to be the only man on earth who had God in front of me.
The pre-Inca and Inca civilizations began to surf over 5,000 years ago. Probably explored the coastline searching for a legendary left, “Mamape, the wave that never ends”.
They must have felt the same as when I first saw it.
Probably built this city for the only reason of this unique wave, sacred temple of the Incas. A civilization of surfers that understood surfing as a way to connect with nature and with God. Self-sufficient, these surfers thrived for centuries with the bare minimum.
I curse the day that the evil Pizarro and his Spanish troops arrived here and razed the people. Far from seeking a religious experience or connection with the environment, Pizarro moved him “El Dorado”, looking for mountains of gold. Greed, again, ended the harmony of a utopian civilization and makes me think that a better world is possible.
To that served to Pizarro all that gold, killing all that people, now that he is dead and buried with nothing left, like the rest of us.
However, the magic of the wave of Mamape remains intact for ever and ever.
At the end of the day, we are all going to pass away , and all that remains is nature.”
