Surfing is everything. The last time I posted this fact one person said it wasn’t it everything at all, it was just ‘something’. I felt angry, angry that he clearly wasn’t having enough fun. I mean technically he’s right as apart from actually surfing the wave there is the whole buying surfboards, wetsuits, travelling, hanging on the beach, bantering out back with your mates and getting a cool beers at sunset, and stuff like that. AND if you want to get deep you have to look at it as means of self expression, a dance, an art form, an escape, a sport, a therapy and a sub culture. A life outside of surfing is, well… a black hole of despair clawing and gnawing at your very soul like a giant ravenous RAT who has just got a off a ghost ship full of other giant ravenous rats. People go in there all sparkly eyed, tanned, happy and come out as bankers, MP”s and Facebook ranters. That’s how bad it is. Never go there my friend. Don’t be that disbeliever.
So you see “surfing, and all that..” is everything. But for short we’ll just say “surfing is everything”.
