I’m laying in a field in Ireland staring into the blue. Mountains stretch out into the distance. Endless bays break up the shore. Sometimes the stillness of small corners of Earth can provide life’s most precious moments.
A time to stop and ask: “How good is this?”
Right there, right then, I was loving life in it’s simplest form. Laying in a field in the middle of nowhere admiring my surroundings and just taking it all in while listening to the sound of surfers having fun. Is there a better thing in life? I’m not sure there is. The sun was warm on my face. It felt good.
Out in the water four friends are riding a few waves. Enjoying the moment. Just four lads brought together by a love of surf, music and vagarity of chance. Rob, Jed, Pete and Rory. As a collective they are the Sunset Sons. Four surfers who are on one of the roller coast branch lines of life’s path. They are riding, laughing, smiling, making tunes that put a skip in peoples step, packing gigs and having a whole lot of fun.
Two years ago they hooked up to play a few covers and make a few bucks gigging in the hard partying bars of the Alps. By March this year they were at the heart of a music industry maelstrom and as a result signed Polydor’s biggest deal of the year. A five album deal no less. Which in this day and age of quick fixes and easy come, easy go, is testament to steadfast belief, a bidding war and some canny negotiations. From here on in however you should know them as ‘the lads’ because in surfing parlance that’s what they are, and good lads too.
So there I was in a remote field, sun shining, feeling surfed out and there they were in the surf. Every now and again I’d raise my head as one of the lads cruised across a deep blue wall. It had not been by any imagination a smooth trip, but it was possibly one of the best. Missed flights in an early morning rush, obstacles placed at every turn, yet every time a door shut another opened and a new friend had been made.
Skindog, Sharpy and I had arrived in Ireland on the Tuesday afternoon navigating life’s merry twists and turns as well as we could before arriving at a barrelling break in the middle of nowhere. Two surfers got out as we arrived so we paddled out into empty perfection as a double rainbow formed against dark clouds to the east, while the sun broke through blue skies to the west. A magical light illuminated most the session and our hoots and yells echoed in the silence. After a day that could have broken a weaker spirited person it was a triumph over adversity and one that had equally reminded us all why we love Ireland so much: the people and the environment. As for the lads, well they had been somewhat waylaid with press duties. Indeed two of them had to change flights and we would pick the other two up in morning.
The next morning was a typically Irish: dark, drizzly, dank. Skindog and I set off for the airport where Jed and Pete were waiting. We took the scenic route, inadvertently, but it was good to chat to the Dog about the vagaries of his world. Hugely respected and liked where ever he goes, yet to some still labelled “longboarder”. It’s a weird label seeing as most of the international surfing population see him as a very good surfer and he rides pretty much every type of board and size of wave with boundless enthusiasm. Longboarding and two second places in World Games have brought him fame and recognition where ever he goes, but high visibility will only get you so far, popularity and respect are much harder earned. He has an abundance of both.
Dog and Jed had hit it off at the Son’s gig in Perranporth the previous week, the afterglow of which had apparently gone on into the small hours. I’d never really met Jed despite us running shots of him and his Geordie crew when he was based in the Toon. He’s a big lad, but quiet and considered in his manner, a good surfer. One of the best younger east coast surfers a few years back. He has his head screwed on. After years of playing in cover bands and surf instructing in places like France and Fuerte’ he is now the drummer of the Sons. We have a lot of long term mutual friends so the strange ritual of meeting and greeting someone for the first time at an airport had the edge taken off. He was amping to know what the surf was like and how soon we would get in there. The lads had been busy with work stuff that had kept them out of the water for weeks. Jed just wanted to get barrelled.
Alongside Jed was Pete. He’s the random Aussie bass player. Pete’s cousin moved to France a few years ago and set up the Le Surfing bar, where the band met. Originally from Wollongong it also transpired we also had mutual friends both near and far so the car was soon filled with, “How is…” And, “What happened to…”, laughter, banter and funny tales. The vibe was good. Unfortunately other two band members were stuck in London due to the band being named as an MTV Break Out Act Of 2015. They were all supposed to be filming an indent for broadcast next year, but on seeing the chart Jed and Pete had bailed and sent the others to film. Possibly not a decision Simon Cowell would have let them get away with, but I had to admire their tenacity.
And thus their road trip began and we hit the track searching some of the quieter corners of Donegal Bay. Lifes merry twists and turns were soon joined by this stretch of coasts hard to call mix of swell direction and the effects of a spring tide. The search was on, and off, and on again as the tide dropped off slabs and onto others. The lads spent a day in wetties as opposed to music studios. All was good. Until back in London MTV twigged they only had half a band turning up for a very important video shoot. Predictably they threw one and demanded the full package be at their studios the next day. Imagine being let loose on a surf trip, getting up early, hitting the airport, on plane, off plane, picked up, dash around the coast and then being called back to London. Yes. Philosophical was the mood. But let’s face it, MTV demanding you go and film with them is not the worst problem to have.
So off they went while Skindog, Sharpy and I reassessed and relocated. Bundoran it was. Good old Fundoran. It would be pumping. And that is how we came to be surfing with dolphins. Just the three of us at a fun little peak. Earlier we had rocked up at PMPA which was kind of okay, but acting as meeting point for the local crew rather than the end destination. It was a good crew at that, both in size and in attitude. Numbers had been swollen by many visitors but the Bundoran boys are always a good mannered, solid surfing, bunch. One of my favourite crews from around the globe as it happens mainly because they work the old school rules; give respect, gain respect. Old smiles, new friends.
HQ established we were soon in the sea on a little running right. We had it to ourselves for hours until couple of local lads paddled out. We said hello, called each other into waves, got barrelled. Then off to the north fins broke the surface. Dolphins. And then they came. Swooping, diving, surfing, circling right around us. It was a pretty epic five minutes. Then they were gone back out to sea. It was shame to see them go, but we shouldn’t have worried. 20 minutes later they came back swimming right between us. Jumping and surfing waves. So close if you had reached (and they let you) you could have touched them. It was almost as if they were saying “See ya!” and off they went into the sunset. We’d been barrelled for four hours and surfed with dolphins. Pretty damn epic. Not of course if you are heading back to Ireland from an MTV recording and reading about it all in text message. Still after making the flight by two minutes and with an ETA of 12.30, base sorted and and all time forecast for the morning all was not lost for the lads.
It’s early morning. The wind is offshore. The swell is pumping. It’s a crisp, sweet, sunny day. The house is in chaos as the full line up of the Sunset Sons try and find their relevant boots, hoods, gloves and wetsuits. They go about it in a manner which suggests they are a close bunch of mates who had perhaps been travelling with other just a tad too long the previous day… and got up an hour too early. The other two members include Rory, the lead singer, keyboard guru and object of most ladies affections. He ended up being conscripted into the band after a performance at, yes that bar again, Le Surfing where he was spotted by Jed singing. He had arrived in Hossegor looking for waves, got adopted by Wales’s favourite surfing son, Carwyn Williams, and there he stayed. I liked Rory. He has a voice for sure, and presence, but he has a great ability to make you laugh. Chicks also love Rory but you can’t hold it against him. He’s that kind of guy. You would have beer with him except he had to stop drinking as he likes it too much so he sticks to water.
Rob meanwhile is different again. He is the quiet one. The axe man. Possibly, I thought, axe murderer as he was so quiet among the dawn mayhem. But then he came out with a dry quip and everything was alright. While all others are probably what I would call surfers turned professional musicians, Rob was bought in due to his musical proficiency… and then thrown in the deep end as the lads taught him to surf at places like the heaving shore dump of La Graviere.
20 minutes later and we are overlooking sunny offshore, if slightly inconsistent, four foot barrels. The lads, amped to a factor of 15 on a scale of ten really didn’t need any encouragement from a Skindog who was frothing harder than the last pint of Betty Stoggs from a hand pump, but they got it anyway. It was a start of a six and a half hour session. I asked Jed later when the last time he had surfed for so long was, “When I was about 13?” was the answer.
To begin the tide was a little high and with morning sickness affecting many of the other breaks it was more crowded than I had seen this little stretch of coast, but it was still pretty epic. The lads were joined by Emmet O’Doherty, Conor Maguire, Andrew Kilfeather, Barry Mottershead and Dylan Stott. But it was as the tide dropped and the crowd dispersed that the magic started to happen. With a dropping wind and tide the swell began to line up, the crowd started thinning and people started calling each other into waves. There were eight second pits, hoots, a rotation in the line-up, smiles and a general vibe often lost in other areas of the world. As the sun started to drop the tubes became golden to the point where it was hard to see as you travelled through them, light glinting off the hollow face. Lips becoming translucent, mesmerising. It wasn’t heavy, it was fun. As fun as fun gets. A moment in time that stays in your memory. I remembered two friends who are in hospital at home and got one each for them. I shouted, whistled, hooted, smiled again. We all did. And we all surfed for hours. Six people eventually became four, became three, became one. On exit we found Rob and Rory had done a shop run and handed out roast chicken, sandwiches and cakes. It was pretty perfect.
That evening was pretty special. Emmett, who’s family own the Chasing Bull pub, managed to get the lads the loan of all the instruments and equipment they needed for an impromptu gig. The place was packed with Bundoran surfers old, second generation and visitors all having scored during the day. It was good. Many pints were drunk. And this is how I ended up laying in a field in the middle of nowhere on a Saturday afternoon pondering life’s great path on the last full day of the trip. I wondered where we would all be in twelve months time. Then I wondered if the guys a Shells in Strandhill would have any nice cake. They did, and they also had more surf and sun out the front, the lads dug in again.
The Saturday night turned out to be less rock and roll than I imagined spending a Saturday night with a rock and roll band would be. The lads have a pact not to make the mistakes of previous bands and drink themselves into oblivion within six months of signing their deal. They are grounded and they have their heads screwed on. They know this is their shot and they are going to take it. Plus the forecast was good again, and they wanted to get up for a dawny before once again hitting the road. So it was a steak in the Bridge Bar, laughs and conversation. A world away from life on the road, and even, heaven forbid, computer screens and wifi. We were into the realms of a good old fashioned surf trip. We talked of the band and what was happening all around them. They are very down to earth, and self effacing, “We’re not the best musicians the world, but we just love what we do.”
“It’s a kinda weird when you walk into a bar and people are kinda pointing, want you to sign autographs or have their photos taken. I mean it’s just us..?”
“The best gig we have ever played was in Ullapool. The people up there just go crazy!” That was it. No antics, no airs and graces. Just the pub with mates, a discussion on making the most of the rented cottages laundry facilities, a constant battle for the road warrior band, then a bit of QI.
Next morning Rob and Rory chose a lay in so Jed, Pete and I go to the reef. It is misty but three foot and pumping. We have two hours so suit up and head in. As soon as we reach the peak the sets stop so we sit about looking at each other. Ashore a van draws up with some surfers in. We all sit and wait, and wait, and … you get the picture. The van drives off. As it clears the bend and goes out of view the first set arrives. The swell pulses. We start hooting, calling each other into waves. Cold it be a perfect end to a surf trip? The mist eases back from the water to the shore and turns orange in the daybreak. Yes it could. It’s another incredible view for the memory bank. Three out, soon to be joined by our good friend Emmett, sharing waves. Jed and Pete have their best surf of the trip.
The trip back to the airport was filled with laughs and comfortable tired silences. It was the end of an epic little road trip, but I’m convinced just the start of something special for the lads. And off they went, off into the real world, a whole random road of life as a rock and roll band awaits. The love of the finer things in life bonds them though. Surfing and friendship. We wish them luck.
(You can check out their first two EPs and pre-order the new one on iTunes)
An informational piece where you can pick all kinds of esoteric knowledge to baffle your friends in the pub… Or win pub quizzes. Or not. This one is about the oh-so-ruddy-lovely: Maldives. Check out other 10 Things for Hawaii and Yorkshire.
1. Mount Everest they aren’t
The highest recognised geographical point in the Maldives is, astonishingly, an unnamed point on Villingili Island in the Addu Atoll. This relative mountain, for the near sea level country, stands at a massive 2.4 metres tall. This is the world’s lowest national high point. You’d think they would give it a name or something, Hill Island for example. The lack of hills has severely limited the development of hang-gliding and mountain sports in the Republic and they have yet to pull off a Jamaican bobsleigh team style coup at the winter Olympics. As 80 percent of the land lies under a metre above sea level more tsunamis and sea level rise due to global warming are a real concern.
2. There are a lot of the little buggers
1190 islands. Count them. Not many are inhabited and many are little more than a cat litter tray of sand that sticks above the water at low tide. Eighty have fancy arse resorts on them and another two hundred or so are inhabited by the real people of the Maldives; who fish, dodge falling coconuts, eat fish curry and fish a bit more to fill their days.
3. It’s a fair and reasonable democracy
Ahem. Yes. Err. Yes…
4. There’s no such thing as going feral
In Indo and most other island chains you can turn up, board bag in tow and bum your way around on local boats, stay in local accommodation and generally spend five quid a day and live like a king. In the Maldives tourism is carefully controlled. No backpackers, no turning up and seeing how things turn out. You will stay at a fancy resort, costing lots, and have no contact with the locals or you can bugger off. The plus side of this policy is there is none of the crass commercialism that’s blighted Bali and the like.
5. It’s a really crap place to pull
Nearly everyone there is on their honeymoon, but apparently it’s still considered bad form to drop in on another dude’s partner when they have been married less than two weeks. If the object of your affections partner is a room bound with third degree sunburn from overdoing the bronzing and you’re leaving the next morning then go ahead, pull in.
6. Tony Hussein Hinde doesn’t exist
He does, sorry, that was a lie. But we had to shoehorn the legend in somehow. Good old Tone (R.I.P) got shipwrecked in the ‘Dives in ’73, met a local lass, got married, went native and kept the surfing secret to himself and a mate for 15 years. Then took his secret hideaway public by starting Atoll Adventures. Pasta Point is his legacy.
7. The names of breaks are real adventurous
Cokes is so named because of the Coke factory on the island. Chickens is named after the chicken farm on that island. Jails is by an island with, you guessed it, a jail on it. As for Ninjas, well, if the name scheme is correct then I don’t really want to find out what’s on that island. Unfortunately there is no surf spot called Palm Trees, which is surprising.
8. There’s more to the Maldives than the North Atoll
Everyone knows Pasta Point, Sultans, Jails, Lohis and the rest. Trouble is everyone is now going there. The last few years have seen a massive surge of surfers heading for the soft Indo, tempted by tropical waves and the exotic experience without the smell, hassle and danger of Indo. It’s the number one spot for honeymooning surfers. But there’s more, there are waves all the way down the island chain that stretches to the equator. The southern atolls have some cracking waves, which are hollower, pack more punch and are empty; no hotels and only a couple of boats down there see. But I didn’t tell you that.
9. The immigration is weird
When you land in the Maldives you’ll present your passport to one dude who’ll look at it, stamp it and give it back to you with a little white immigration form inside. You then pass it back to another person, sat four inches to the right of the first dude, who takes out the immigration form and stamps it. There is sometimes a third person supervising as well. Kinda overkill on the staffing front really.
10. They really do mean it when they say ‘Just Say No!’
As the dude in South Park says ‘Drugs are bad, mmmkay?’ The ‘Dives have a real zero tolerance policy towards any drug. You will get chucked in prison. Any prison is unpleasant but one with a tin roof, equatorial sun and no air-conditioning equals sweaty as all hell. Suffice to say, the Maldives Bastille is not anything like the swish B&Bs that masquerade as prisons in the UK: no Sky TV, no ping pong and no flushing toilets. You will languish there for years, wondering if life really means life while all your family bankrupt themselves trying to get you out. Don’t risk it. Leave the jazz fags at home.
Starring in the photos in order: Gracie Davies, Tassy Swallow, Robyn Davies, Jamie O’Brien, Tassy, Sophie Hellyer, Gracie Davies, Sam Lamiroy and a turtle.
In honour of the UK Pro Surf Tour returning to Scarborough for the weekend of October 4-5 here’s some useless pub facts about one of England’s finest counties.
1. Yorkshire puddings
The classic recipe for Yorkshire Pud:
INGREDIENTS: Plain flour: one mug, Egg: 1, Milk: one mug and some beef fat.
COOKING:
Pre-heat oven to 220C / 425F / Gas Mark 7.
Put a little beef fat in 12 individual Yorkshire pudding tins or a single large tin and leave in the oven until the fat is very hot.
Place the flour in a bowl, then make a well in the centre and break in the egg. Add half the milk and, using a wooden spoon, gradually work in the flour. Beat the mixture until it is smooth then add the remaining milk. Beat until well mixed and the surface is covered with tiny bubbles.
Pour the batter into the tins and bake for 10 to 15 minutes for individual puddings, 30 to 40 minutes, if using a large tin, until risen and golden brown.
Serve filled with thick, artery clogging gravy. Yerrrrm!
2. Dracula
Lived in Whitby. No one knows if he slid out for a few sessions, he would of course have to drop a few coffin rides into the mix. More seriously Bram Stoker, him what wrote the book, hung in Whitby for a bit hence the inspiration. The whole coffins coming ashore from a shipwreck was based on an actual event when a ship named the Demetrius was wrecked and spilled its gory cargo. Locals were finding decomposed corpses all over the coast.
3. Captain Cook
Yorkshire’s most famous son didn’t technically discover surfing, officially one of his crew was the chap that noted it in his journal. He was, however, from Yorkshire, he did live by the surf, he did find most of the Pacific islands and he did become victim to the first recorded case of localism in Hawaii. For all you ship spotters out there his famous ship the Endeavour was originally a Whitby based coal-carrying ship called the Earl of Pembroke.
4. More Cookie business
The Ministry of Defence is responsible for the upkeep of the Captain Cook memorial in Hawaii. A local gardener is paid, via the British Defence Staff in Washington DC, to keep the memorial looking smart. It’s near Kona on the Big Island of Hawai’i. A more useless fact you’ll never hear.
5. You can go to Boggle Hole
A leafy valley that leads down to the sea, but you might not want to as it’s haunted. In case you were wondering a ‘Boggle’ is the Yorkshire term for a goblin. Who would win in a three-way punch up between a Boggle, a Cornish Piskey and an Irish Leprechaun is a moot point that has haunted academics for years.
6. It’s getting smaller
Home insurance in coastal Yorkshire must be sky high. In the 1680s the village of Runswick slipped into the sea over night, the next village south, Kettleness, followed suit in 1829 and in recent times the Holbeck Hall Hotel in Scarborough took the biggest drop of its life in 1993. So a nice gaff with a sea view is not necessarily the ideal bit of real estate to invest in; unless you’re really into living on the edge.
7. Have you been to Scarborough Fair?
Scarborough Fair was not a fair as we know it today, not much in the way of waltzers, goldfish-in-bags and suspect looking carnie types, but a huge 45 day trading event, starting August 15, which was exceptionally long for a fair in those days. People from all over England, and even some from the continent, came to do business. There is still a fair today, known as Luna Park, on the harbour side overlooking a mysto, rarely surfed, ridiculously dangerous left reef that breaks only on the biggest of big swells.
8. Oh I do like to be beside the seaside
Sea bathing and the whole concept of beach holidays is said to have started in Scarborough. Who invented the bucket & spade, Punch & Judy, fish & chips and English Lobster Tan is a matter open to debate. Some of the finest fish and chips in the whole country are found on the Yorkshire coast, particularly in Whitby, where award winning chip shops see long queues.
9. It’s all in the name
Robin Hood’s Bay has absolutely nothing to do with Robin Hood. It was however a den of smugglers back in the times when Smuggler was a legitimate career choice that’s sadly not so popular these days.
10. A wet what?
Probably one of the best names for a village in the whole of the UK, lagging only behind the perennial number one of Twatt in the Orkneys, is Yorkshires finest: Wetwang. The legendary, and sadly now departed, Richard Whitely of Countdown fame was the honorary mayor.
1. Trying to get your head around the forecasts and charts and what works when will take you a lifetime. Nowhere is more maddening. Or more rewarding when you suss it. Just ask Micah.
2. People and signs are refreshingly honest and direct…
3. The local wildlife are friendly.
4. Some spots you can check the surf from the warm confines of your van…
5. Going for the ‘dawny’ can mean getting up at 8 a.m.
6. Rewards await those with exploratory nature.
7. Thurso. World class. Fact. Deadly inconsistent but on its day…
8. The water colours will blow your mind.
9. It’ll take your surfing to the next level. (This is local surfer Dom btw)
10. Pioneering renewables on land and at sea…
11. Pubs are pubs. Good beer, good food, good banter.
12. The barrels will make you happy.
Russ Ord is a name you’ll be familiar with if you’ve been reading Carve the last few years. He’s the West Australian water photographer that puts himself in situations in the salt that few would dare attempt. You’ll have seen him bobbing around shooting the mega session at The Right. Can’t even begin to imagine what it would be like to swim under these beasts the flesh … So we asked him.
So. After swimming under this thing can you confirm that you are actually still alive and in one piece?
Yes, I still have all my limbs in the correct place and everything is functioning as per normal or abnormal depending which side of the fence you sit on.
Which part of shallow/sharky/huge/heavy equation scares you most?
When we first arrive my whole concern is actually on the wave itself, the size, currents, direction of swell and basically all the conditions on the day. The night before when preparing for the predicted swell I was hoping it wouldn’t be too big so I could attempt to have a swim, sharks don’t come into my thought process, I have enough on my plate to let that bother me.
Can you even begin to describe what swimming under a set there is like?
Normally I’m out there for a good hour or so feeling out the conditions and trying to get some Dutch courage up to get in closer, I must have been a touch excited and just swam too deep (obviously) I could hear all the ski’s in the channel moving so I knew something was coming. It was good to get it out of the way in the early stages when I had a heap of energy, I actually enjoyed that wave, no real beating at all surprisingly.
How are the currents can it suck you too deep or is trying to push you off the shelf the whole time?
The previous times I’ve swum there the currents have pushed me away from the impact zone, that was my big mistake on this day because I only took a few stokes and found myself in the wrong position, it’s a great wake call and a good lesson for next time.
Do the surfers give you a funny look when you jump in the brine and start kicking when you could quite happily shoot from a ski?
I could shoot from the ski which I have done for years. Over time it’s become very unrewarding, every moment captured without having a real moment myself. If I could just get that one photo from the water I am extremely happy, besides there are so many photog’s now that just show up with no crew and shoot from the channel, I have my own peace out amongst the chaos.
How big do you think you can swim it?
That’s big enough for now! Until I start shooting wide-angle better there’s no point trying to go larger. I know wide-angle makes the wave look smaller etc, people and many photographers don’t appreciate or understand the efforts that go into just getting that type of shot, but like the surfers that take it on, it’s very addictive … a natural high on life.
How long can you hold your breath for?
Long enough if keeping calm and remembering the training that I have done with Joe Knight from One Ocean International, my life revolves around that every day. When I’m relaxed in the pool its 3:20 which is disappointing in a way because I need to get past my mind telling me I need air, like all good free divers can do.
Have you gone over the falls there yet?
Couple of times but only on the end bowl, not like some of the surfers that have gone over on the peak. I keep telling myself they are fine and survive the beating so go deeper, it’s a build up over time, it will happen.
Do you kiss the sand when you get back to the beach after a session like that?
I certainly kiss the wife and kids once home. It’s a complete natural high if I think enough effort went into the swim.
Thought it timely to post this now the WaveGarden in Snowdonia is happening.
A worldwide exclusive magazine trip to the Wavegarden test facility in the Basque country. A man-made lake deep in the mountains where the artificial wave revolution is quietly in progress. Alan Stokes, Ben Skinner, Toby Donachie and Harry Timson had rare full day access to get the measure of the beast.
The received wisdom is this:
• Artificial waves are naff.
• You can’t reproduce the majesty of the ocean in a swimming pool (not in any sensible way that doesn’t cost the earth at least).
That there received wisdom is like totes wrong. The Wavegarden is about to change everything.
Artificial waves aren’t new. Various ones have been tried. From Typhoon Lagoon through the Japanese Ocean Dome, Siam Park in Thailand, made famous by Stab Mag jet-ski tow-at sesh, and the Tenerife park. The recent star is the Wadi wave pool in the Middle East. The trouble with all these places is cost. They cost a mint to build, in excess of twenty million Euros and use huge amounts of energy: pumping water up in to tanks to be dropped to make the wave. The reset time is slow. So one surfer gets to ride one wave every five minutes. If they fluff the drop that’s a real pain. It’s also not an operation that will ever cover its costs. The huge Japanese one went bust a few years back and the rest remain as pools for tourists to play in 99 percent of the time. Nothing more than a curiosity for the magazines and brands to play with when they’re cranked up to the max. The quality and size however is good. Anyone that’s seen Dion Agius or Reubyn Ash’s clips from the Wadi park can’t deny they’re perfect for progressive high-performance surfing.
The other concept that’s yet to evolve past the small scale model phase is the disputed ‘doughnut ring’ shaped Slater/Webber model. Supposedly there are plans to build many but none as yet are confirmed (Gold Coast project recently shelved) and there are issues with the concept I’ll delve into later.
Which leads us to the Wavegarden. The runt of the litter. The Basque curiosity which first emerged two years ago and went viral very quickly. The small, but perfectly formed, DIY left in what looked like a farmer’s field captured the world’s imagination. It looked like a water feature Charlie Dimmock had knocked up after a few too many mojitos. A rudimentary hole in the ground lined with black pond liner that somehow had this mesmerising hollow left running it’s length. The smattering of tour pro’s that sampled V1.0 were impressed. The verdict was the same: the concept is a definite runner … it just needs to be bigger.
Two years later in June this year and another video dropped on Vimeo. The first look at Wavegarden v2.0. Again a who’s who of the world’s pro contingent starred. Dane, Medina and more who did things on the substantially bigger, and now also doubled up, white lined, all together more professional looking installation. Just over a month later it’s had 400,000+ views.
The Basque test facility is just that. It’s their mad scientist lab for working on, improving, and occasionally breaking the concept. It’s where they can turn things up to 11 and see what happens. It won’t ever be open to the public. V2.0 is built on the same land as V1.0. They just made the hole bigger. But there’s the rub. The remote mountain valley that is their Bond villain style lair for world wave domination is limited for space. On one side a steep pasture and the other drops down sharply in to a river. They’ve pushed it as long and as wide as they can. But the science remains the same. The planned commercial operations, which number in the double digits, will be sited on land with more room. So the lakes can be wider and longer. Which means the waves can be bigger. Right now the test site is the ultimate grom/junior training ground. Sure grown up surfers can smash it but it’s a bit too small to go proper nuts. When they make the wave proper overhead it’s going to be a sight to see. Which, being British, we’ll be the first to witness. The Bristol and North Wales developments lead the pack and should be the first commercial operations open to the public in the world. Which is pretty flipping rad.
‘What about the cost and the energy use?’ you cry. Well kids here’s the thing. Not only does the garden produce a sweet left and right running long enough to knock off six turns every wave once at the end the magic tech that makes the wave does some fancy stuff and is ready to go back the other way. Yep. You read that right. So you surf a left one way. Wait three minutes (at the moment, they’re working on a one minute turnaround for the public versions) and surf a right back again. Imagine that. Getting a wave so long you can do six turns, really work on the kinks in your technique, frontside and then repeat backside. With two people riding simultaneously either side of the lake. So the wave count is good. The energy use minimal. Once up to speed the wave generator, the tech of which we’ll leave you to marvel about, suffice to say it doesn’t involve gravity dumping water like the established parks, uses little energy. And here’s the kicker: a basic Wavegarden is yours for €4,000,000 euros. Yep. Less than a fifth of the cost of other schemes and able to sate many more surfers a day. The expression is: #winning. And for more cash you can go bigger and longer. If you had the land and the money you could build one a mile long, hell, if you’re an oil sheik, ten miles long. The tech is that clever. The next step in research is sections, ‘just needs something to hit at the end’ is the main response from pro’s. While the majority of us will be happy as is.
A quick word about the Kelly/Webber/doughnut concept. The WG guys have been working on this for 15 years. If there’s a way of making waves they’ve run the physics through the ‘puters and modelled until their brains overheated. The ring concept they’ve theorised, considered and discounted. The short version is: it won’t work. Well. It will work. But only if the pool is ridiculously big. Like a mile wide. Otherwise it’ll be backwash central. So they’re quietly confident that the Wavegarden, of all the competing technologies, is the one with the beans to actually make it commercially.
Suffice to say we were all blown away. Any doubts we had about the concept evaporated the second we saw that first sheet glass barrel reel down the garden. It’s legit. So legit it ain’t funny. Stoker, Skindog, Toby and Hazza frothed all day. It was a day of non-stop laughter, good times and more waves than you can shake a stick at. The next day they all slept until midday so broken were they by the beast. Read their opinions on the beast at the the end of the feature.
Cynics will sneer ‘these kook pools are just going to clog the real oceanic line-ups with lake learned grockles’. Well heads up Mr Grumpy: the Wavegarden ain’t for beginners. If you can’t paddle into a wave and stand up then you’re not going anywhere. It’s for intermediates and advanced surfers who will, to a human, froth on it til they can froth no more and will go home exhausted beaming from ear to ear. Any cynic won’t be once they’ve had a go.
The wider lagoons at each end are perfect for people to learn how to stand on foamies in a safe controlled environment but the fact remains a lake and the sea are completely different. Learning to surf in a lake won’t get you very far in the sea. It’s like all surfing should be: it’s about having fun.
In closing we’ll be watching progress at Bristol and Wales very closely. Next summer is the proposed opening for Wales at least. We can’t wait. We’ll be amongst the long list of people wanting to help ‘test’.
Huge thanks to: Josema, Felip, Jaime and crew at the Wavegarden for following their dreams and for giving in and hooking us up when they’ve got the whole world wanting a go. A more warm, humble, stoked crew you’ll never meet.
Also big thanks to Paul and Michelle at Shifting Sands in Labenne, France (shiftingsandssurfhouse.com). An ace surf friendly home stay with comfy beds, home made bread and an epic crew. If you’re off to Hossegor and want a chilled place to stay hit them up.
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THE PRO Q&A
Our test pilots featured through out had a solid eight hour shift at the park. We were supposed to have two whole days but the weather was proper poop the second day and they didn’t want to operate the garden in the middle of a wild mountain storm. Here’s the crews views on the whole dealio.
Seeing it for the first time was the Wavegarden anything like you imagined it to be?
Stoker: Well I’d seen the video that Wavegarden had released with Medina, Dane and Taj but the first thing that was surprising was how big the pool was, it’s hard to get a scale until you see it first hand.
Toby: I was surprised when I first saw the size, it’s so much bigger in real life then on the videos.
Ben: It was incredible to see it for the first time, it’s surroundings are breathtaking! I couldn’t get my head around it at all before we got there, and when we got there, the excitement over ruled any thoughts. Just started frothing!
Harry: Not at all! I thought it would be more like a Flowrider, where it’s not exactly like surfing but it’s so much like a real waves it’s incredible!
How weird was seeing that first wave?
Stoker: So strange to see a wave in such a bizarre environment. It’s so quiet and surreal in those valleys surrounded by forest at the edge of a turquoise pool of calm water then this wave pops up from nowhere it’s like you’re in some kind of dream. When they pumped the first wave alarm bells started ringing in my head and I was watching this perfect barrelling wave for 200 yards. I was then thinking okay the potential here is mind blowing.
Toby: Mind blowing. Staring at a flat lake and suddenly it just appears. So glassy and flawless that you almost cant see the almond barrel winding down the bank perfectly.
Ben: Well, myself and Stokesy went on the first wave of the day, I hadn’t even seen a wave break yet, it was just a lake with a pontoon in the middle, until this small lump moved towards us, and Stokesy said, ’This is it. Paddle!’ Before I knew it, I was stuck behind the section watching a glassy chest high wave barrel off in front of me.
Harry: Crazy, and seeing as the water was calm its barrelled the whole way and pretty much was like a dream come true!
How freaky was surfing your first wave?
Stoker: The first wave that they create at the start of each day is so glassy and perfect you kind of don’t know how to surf it. We say it’s ‘glassed off’ in ocean conditions but this is something else. This is so perfectly still that you can’t really see the wave; pretty trippy. But that first wave is top to bottom barrelling glass perfection. Can you even imagine how that’s going to look when its overhead? I think I will actually cry.
Toby: It was so intimidating sat there then all of a sudden just seeing a tiny lump shape up out of nowhere and begin to break.
Ben: Very. I completely kooked it!
Harry: First wave was a bit weird trying to get used to surfing a waves that doesn’t have one drop of water out of place!
How many waves did it take before you had it figured out?
Stoker: Three waves in and I was feeling a lot more comfortable with the dynamics of the wave. Think shallow sand point with an essence of river current standing wave running through it.
Toby: I’d say it took it two goes round until I worked out where to hit the pocket to come back out with speed, because it’s a perfect wave, but it’s not like an ocean wave it felt more like a river bore.
Ben: Quite a few waves, it is a combination of a real wave and a bore wave. So it takes a while to figure out the way the wave moves and where you can turn, noseride, etc.
Harry: Not sure exactly but definitely took a fair few!
Was surfing in the middle of the Basque mountains the strangest thing?
Stoker: So strange. It’s like they have created some kind of surfing Utopia. It’s all made even more enjoyable because the Basque people are so warm and friendly.
Toby: Unbelievable being in such a contrasting place. The mountains were stunning, even though we didn’t get the best weather, it was incredible. There were even Shetland ponies running about!
Ben: It certainly was, it felt like the experience of a lifetime. It felt so strange driving into the mountains for a surf. But when you see it for the first time, you can’t help but to be blown away.
Harry: The background around it is so crazy and it’s even weirder when you remember you’re surfing in the middle of a grassy valley with huge trees!
Do you see it as a legit tool for improving your surfing?
Stoker: As it stands right now it already is legit. You can improve your technique in a few waves and if you’re a grom you can get barrelled. It’s head high and perfect for groms and that’s awesome. The wave its self is actually quite powerful for the size but we need bigger, longer waves to give it that ‘wow’ factor. Over the next year or so we are going to see some crazy waves produced by this technology.
Toby: 100 percent in my opinion. This is the biggest step forward in the surfing revolution for a long time, it will help surfers improve faster due to the consistency of the waves and the frequency of how often they come. After just one day of surfing the Wavegarden I personally already feel faster and fitter.
Ben: 100 percent. I think it’s going to be great for surfing in a lot of aspects, but coaching in particular, this is next level.
Harry: Yeah for sure seeing as now the whole of Europe is pretty much flat!
Would you pay to use one?
Stoker: If it’s overhead and barrelling who wouldn’t? It’s the gold at the end of the rainbow if you’re a surfer. The other thing that I thought was really cool about the experience was the social aspect it brought. The ability to talk about your waves with your friends that are riding a wave at the same time plus having an environment with people watching and cheering from the close shoreline or the boardwalk above the wave.
Toby: Definitely.
Ben: Yes.
Are you excited for the Bristol/Wales ones?
Stoker: I’m super excited to see these projects happen here in the UK. I think it will be great for up and coming talent. It also has a huge advantage for people with disabilities: it’s a safe and controllable environment which means people that maybe haven’t have the opportunity to try surfing now can … that alone is super rad.
Toby: So pumped, I wonder which one will get done first?
Ben: Really excited! How good is it that the UK will be the home of the first open to public one in the world!
Harry: Yeah can’t wait flat summers will never happen again! Also you wont get any kooks in the way.
Considering they could produce bigger/longer waves do you think proper barrels are possible?
Stoker: They can make this wave as big as you want, you just need the pool and the power. Think about that mental perfect grinders on tap?!
Toby: After having a conversation with the engineer at the end of the day, it truly seems possibly I don’t know about stand up barrels but definitely be able to get a few visions especially for the groms.
Ben: If it was two metres high you would be getting barrelled all day long!
Harry: Yeah for sure after surfing the one in Spain the potential for it is insane. Easily get barrels and I’m sure they will find more crazy stuff to do!
Did that one day session improves your surfing in any way?
Stoker: Well I’ve had a sneaky few goes now it’s definitely made my legs stronger. At the end of the day you’ve ridden more waves and done more turns than you would ever do at the beach. The repetitive aspect and being able to go back to the exact same section on the wave and do the same again helps your surfing in a massive way. The first thing I thought was: ‘So this is how skateboarders or snowboarders have it.’ It was very weird to be waiting for the exact same wave again!
Toby: For sure. My surfing feels quicker and more fluid, I’m stoked and I want to get back out there to surf it again soon!
Ben: I definitely felt quicker in my reactions when I got home and back in the surf, so yes.
Harry: Afterwards you seem to feel a lot quicker however you don’t normally get a wave that lets you do eight turns with the same section every time!
How much did you ache the day after?
Stoker: Lots! Haha, I was on full froth out turned up to 11.
Toby: The day after I couldn’t even bend my knees, thought I’d proper hurt myself but it seems to have been just really tight quads … needed to do more stretching!
Ben: I felt pretty tired in my legs, we caught a lot of waves!
Harry: So much! Felt like the most hardcore workout!
When did you last have a session where you did six turns a wave all day?
Stoker: Maybe Snapper once or Maccas in the Ments.
Toby: A very very long time ago. So long I cant even remember!
Harry: Last night in my dream somewhere!
What are the downsides?
Stoker: It’s a perfect man made barrelling wave that’s only going to get bigger and longer. It’s hard to find any negatives. I’m sure if you dig deep enough you could but that’s the same with everything. I reckon the positives far out way the negatives. I’m sold for sure.
Toby: It’s slightly weaker then an ocean wave and due to it not having sections it was slightly difficult to get any projection upwards out of the lip on airs.
Ben: I can’t see any. It will never replace ocean surfing, it’s just going to add to the experience.
Harry: Not a lot but if you wanted to be picky I guess the only thing I can think of is the time you have to wait between waves.
Seems to me it’s the ultimate thing for intermediates and advance surfers to work on their technique. What do you say to people that reckon there will heaps of new beginner surfers clogging the line-ups?
Stoker: I would say get over your selves. Stop worrying. Life’s way too short. Get out there and get amongst it and claim it like your Da Souza.
Toby: Well there is the possibility of surfing getting increasingly crowded but thats happening naturally anyway. If you’re willing to get up early or go searching then you can always find a quiet spot to get your kicks too.
Ben: Well, there are a lot of beaches in the UK, find one without a crowd if that’s what you want, don’t stop our sport growing.
Harry: They can have the line-ups and I’ll surf the Wavegarden! Haha!
Are you going to take the WG dudes up on their offer of ‘popping back if you’re in the area’ in the summer?
Stoker: I’m already booked in haha!
Toby: Yes! As I have mentioned previous in these questions because I’m just so damn excited about it!
Ben: HELL YEAH!
Harry: Without a doubt!
If you won the Euromillions would you get one for the garden?
Stoker: If I won the Euromillions I would get one for the top of my boat.
Toby: Damn right! I would get one in my garden, the biggest one I could fit!
Ben: Do you need me to answer that?!
Harry: What kind of a question is that?! You’d have to be stupid not to get one!
