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“Pile ou Face”

At first sight, it looks simple. Find a swell on the weather models. Read its trajectory and decode its data. Anticipate its evolution and choose the right place. Going from theory to practice and scoring. Except that the reality of a swell in South-West of France, from les Landes to the Basque Country, is quite different.

"Even if the forecasts are exceptional, you can be in the wrong place or have the wrong timing", will analyse Rémi Arauzo. Juggling between chance and expertise, flipping heads or tails, is the daily bread of the surfer from Vieux-Boucau (Landes), double European longboard champion in 2008 and 2010.

For several winters, Rémi has chosen to share his passion for big waves with Léo Havion. Both of them combine their unfailing determination every time the weather models get agitated.

"Pile ou Face"follows in their footsteps during a winter swell in the South of the Landes. From the analysis of the swell to the almost perfect session, through the final preparations and the precious logistical details, plunge into the daily life of two surfers who feed on failures to find perfect waves.

Kempers Horror Beating

After suffering a life-threatening fall on a strike mission in Morocco, Billy Kemper found himself living out every surfer’s nightmare. Stuck in a faraway hospital with a severely injured knee, hip, and pelvis, Billy’s only goal was to get back to his wife and four kids. The journey home would be more unpredictable and difficult than he could have ever imagined.

Back To Shipsterns

After been locked out of Tasmania for 15 months I finally got to chase a Shippies swell. With a long period south west swell the late summer season forecast looked all too good not to chase. So with Bondi Rescue lifeguard and big wave surfer Clint Kimmins we roll the dice and this is what we got. - Tim Bonython

Nic Von Rupp: The Grower

This wave grows from a 3ft take off into a 12ft Barrel the size of a truck.

I was on vacation with my girl in Costa Rica, when all of a sudden the swell of the winter popped up for home, we instantly packed our bags headed to the airport. This wave doesn’t break that often, but when mother nature aligned there is no place I’d rather be. It was a mission to get back home, but the session made it worth while - Nic Von Rupp

Classic Gerry Lopez & Co

All time Pipeline sessions from the classic 1978 North Shore season featuring Gerry Lopez. Also putting in solid performances were Rory Russell, Jackie Dunn, Shaun Tomson, Rabbit Bartholomew, Jeff Crawford, Owl Chapman and more.

Gerry Lopez is widely known as the most graceful tube-rider in the history of pro surfing. Watching Lopez is to witness his pure reverence for the wave - his fluid acceptance of its shape, speed and thrust. Through him, you could actually see the movement of the wave more clearly. He didn't try to dominate the wave. He allowed the wave to ride through him.