I’ve been gathering footage for the last three or four years – all my best waves from around home in the West of Ireland – and I got to the point where I felt comfortable that I had enough for a good clip. The Doolin Surf Film Festival was coming up, which is a really cool event, and I wanted to screen the film there. I also wanted to help out the filmmaker Joao, a younger guy who is super talented. So, between the two of us, because we’re both on the same wavelength, this was what we came up with.
Framed is a very apt name for this film, because you’re also a picture framer. How did you get into that?
I was always interested in woodwork. I made furniture when I was younger, and I’ve worked as a carpenter. I just love to work with wood.
I have a big interest in art and framing is almost an artform in itself. It’s beautiful to see how the frame can contrast with the painting.
I have a little workspace at home, plus a workshop ten minutes from my house. My workspace is actually in my boardroom at the back of my house, so I’ll have to move my boards outside soon to make more space for my tools.
Over the years you’ve always tipped the work / life balance scale towards surfing. Has that been a conscious decision?
I’ve always worked to surf. Surfing’s been such a big, positive part of my life and getting in the sea on a daily basis, or whenever I can, and when the waves are good, has always been so important to me.
So I’ve always juggled work to make that happen, and, in the past, that might have meant doing three to four months of solid building work, back home in Cornwall, so that I could then focus on surfing again for a while. Now I can just do a few days of picture framing at home and then go surfing when it’s good. Patagonia has also enabled me to go on trips and kept me warm with suits, so I make it work.
You’re from Cornwall, but you live in Lahinch [West Coast of Ireland]. What was it like transitioning between those two surf scenes?
When I moved to Lahinch it was always a struggle trying to make things happen with work, so I’d go back and forth a bit. Then Moy Hill Farm came up and many of my friends from Cornwall moved over, so the scene grew.
It can be a hard existence here in winter, and this winter was a particularly cold and bleak one with months of bad waves, so it’s not always easy. It can feel a bit too much at times, but there are some great moments in amongst it, and there are some really interesting people living here because it’s a healthy place to be, close to the sea with a lot of positive things going on as well.
Could you tell us about Hometree?
One of the positive things happening here is Hometree, a tree planting initiative, spearheaded by surfer Matt Smith. They’re on a mission to reforest as many areas of Ireland as possible, but with only native species of tree. The last Saturday in every month, they get people together to plant trees. Some of them are donated and some are reared in their own nursery. They invite everyone along on social media, we have a cup of tea, we do some planting and we all eat together afterwards. They’re connecting likeminded people every time too, which is always a good thing.
After a decade of bitter rival status, Kelly Slater and Andy Irons come together to surf off their differences! To get two seemingly mortal enemies to agree to sequester themselves on a tiny island with a half dozen camera men, a Hollywood interviewer capable of conjuring up tears during any interview, and an in-the-know magazine staff waiting with bated breath seemed like a ridiculous notion. The end result was a ten day purge of feelings, emotional baggage, dispelling rumors, talking it out, and a burying of the hatchet once and for all. Oh, and we forgot to mention that the waves were insane!
For all you surfers that are whinging about not being able to surf at the moment, here are some alternatives that you should definitely try in the safety of your own home. Stay safe🤙🏽, comedy gold.
You may be aware that the world is in a bit of a tailspin at the moment. Surf travel is, for the first time, not really possible. For a little while anyway.
So while we all hunker down and wait for the Corona storm to blow over you can plot your next mission to celebrate the world getting back to normal. Whenever that is. It will all come back, you’ll be stroking into green walls in Morocco, exploring mysto breaks in PNG and peeking over clifftops at the world’s end in Galicia before you know it. The whole world is just on pause for a bit, but it won't last forever so get dreaming.
If you wish to find out the UK government advice for travel in light of the Coronavirus click here.
Vanimo Surf Lodge, Papua New Guinea
Vanimo Surf Lodge, a hidden gem in the Land of the Unexpected - Papua New Guinea. Vanimo is located two degrees below the equator on the north shore of mainland Papua New Guinea just a few hours north of Australia. Swells reach the north shore from monsoons in the Philippines and large NE Pacific Ocean storm swells and this combination results in constant swells and epic waves. Lodge numbers are restricted to a maximum 16 to ensure no crowds. Many breaks are a short stroll from the beachfront lodges.
When is the best time of year to travel to your camp? Surf season officially runs from November to April – but it’s not uncommon to score waves during the fringe season months of May and October. Typically, regardless of which direction the wind is blowing at least half, the breaks are offshore. The majority of breaks are over a limestone and seaweed bottom so no coral cuts to worry about and there are beach breaks as well. Is there much of a local surf scene? Yes, there are only handful of guys and girls that surf and they have special pink nose surfboards especially painted for the girls exclusive use. They love having a laugh and chat with the guests in the water.
Surf Maroc is Morocco's leading surf and yoga company, which opened in 2003 with the beach chic guesthouse, Taghazout Villa. Our recently renovated oceanfront villa is one of Morocco’s best-known and loved surf accommodations due to its laidback, social vibe. With stunning ocean-views, backdoor access to the beach, firepit, cosy communal spaces and a family-like atmosphere, it’s the perfect home from home every surfer to sleep, surf and play. Taghazout Villa’s panoramic Atlantic views overlook some of Morocco’s best spots which are only a short walk away, allowing us to provide high-quality surf coaching and guiding services. What to expect at Surf Maroc? If you stay with us, expect amazing waves, delicious food, great weather (all year round), beautiful accommodation, good people, and good vibes. Our doors are open for everyone, whether you are a beginner or pro, singleton or family, guy or girl, young or old. How do you cater to group getaways? We take the stress out of organising group holidays for you and can help you coordinate every aspect of your stay. From guest teacher yoga retreats at Villa Mandala, university trips at the Taghazout Villa to surf film crews, fashion shoots and weddings at the Amouage we’ve hosted them all. You’re in safe hands at Surf Maroc, our bookings team, hosts, surf guides, and management are the best in the business.
Thanks to their long-time expertise, the Caminos are able to guarantee top-notch surf-courses! Their motivated surf-coaches are internationally trained and well experienced. There are classes for all levels available, from newbies to elite. Camino's catering queen constitutes a fundamental member of the surfcamp and looks after the physical well-being of the guests through fully-fledged yummy surf food.
From the 1970s, the obsession of many of surfers is to go in search of “New” waves. Since then, many spots have been discovered. However, there are still a few portions of unexplored coasts which Patagonia is part.
Five years of exploration and preparation later and the Lost in the Swell team access one of the most hostile stretches of coast on the planet, located in Chilean Patagonia. With a oceanic polar climate and huge storms generated around Antarctica coming down on the coast, it’s on one of the most inhospitable coasts on the planet.
I’ve been gathering footage for the last three or four years – all my best waves from around home in the West of Ireland – and I got to the point where I felt comfortable that I had enough for a good clip. The Doolin Surf Film Festival was coming up, which is a really cool event, and I wanted to screen the film there. I also wanted to help out the filmmaker Joao, a younger guy who is super talented. So, between the two of us, because we’re both on the same wavelength, this was what we came up with.
Framed is a very apt name for this film, because you’re also a picture framer. How did you get into that?
I was always interested in woodwork. I made furniture when I was younger, and I’ve worked as a carpenter. I just love to work with wood.
I have a big interest in art and framing is almost an artform in itself. It’s beautiful to see how the frame can contrast with the painting.
I have a little workspace at home, plus a workshop ten minutes from my house. My workspace is actually in my boardroom at the back of my house, so I’ll have to move my boards outside soon to make more space for my tools.
Over the years you’ve always tipped the work / life balance scale towards surfing. Has that been a conscious decision?
I’ve always worked to surf. Surfing’s been such a big, positive part of my life and getting in the sea on a daily basis, or whenever I can, and when the waves are good, has always been so important to me.
So I’ve always juggled work to make that happen, and, in the past, that might have meant doing three to four months of solid building work, back home in Cornwall, so that I could then focus on surfing again for a while. Now I can just do a few days of picture framing at home and then go surfing when it’s good. Patagonia has also enabled me to go on trips and kept me warm with suits, so I make it work.
You’re from Cornwall, but you live in Lahinch [West Coast of Ireland]. What was it like transitioning between those two surf scenes?
When I moved to Lahinch it was always a struggle trying to make things happen with work, so I’d go back and forth a bit. Then Moy Hill Farm came up and many of my friends from Cornwall moved over, so the scene grew.
It can be a hard existence here in winter, and this winter was a particularly cold and bleak one with months of bad waves, so it’s not always easy. It can feel a bit too much at times, but there are some great moments in amongst it, and there are some really interesting people living here because it’s a healthy place to be, close to the sea with a lot of positive things going on as well.
Could you tell us about Hometree?
One of the positive things happening here is Hometree, a tree planting initiative, spearheaded by surfer Matt Smith. They’re on a mission to reforest as many areas of Ireland as possible, but with only native species of tree. The last Saturday in every month, they get people together to plant trees. Some of them are donated and some are reared in their own nursery. They invite everyone along on social media, we have a cup of tea, we do some planting and we all eat together afterwards. They’re connecting likeminded people every time too, which is always a good thing.
