COVID Times

COVID Times

My eyes were sore and dry from the heater of the car turned on full and the hills in the distance were separating their dark shadow from the cold blues and yellows of a mid-March dawn sky. Music played to the sweet sting of coffee in the back of my throat as my eyes fixed on the only other headlights I’d see on the road. First light they call it. No one wants to get up at this hour, but sometimes the wind blows in the right direction and the tide is at the right height and so is the swell, and later in the day all will be lost for the sake of a few more indulgent hours on the pillow. “I get up earlier than this for work, surely this is more important than work” I mused to myself. Hopes are usually dashed at this hour but today the decision was blessed, and I watched the sun rise from the icy spring waters of my second favourite surf spot awaiting my next early morning tube.

I got back to my car after my surf, one of the locals saw me and said, “surfing’s banned here later”. A little confused and first thinking it was maybe some passive aggressive half joking not joking localism, I pressed the man for an answer. The man explained that surfing had been banned in Europe because of this new virus. I had heard about this virus but had given up on watching or reading the news. It seemed to me that news in recent years had become little more than fear inducing sensationalism made of half-truths and omitted facts which hardly had a bearing on reality. I did not worry about this virus, as far as I was concerned it was just another prop for fear.

As the week drew on, strange things started to occur. My university, where I’m studying to become a paramedic, cancelled my placement. All the pubs and restaurants were closed. I started to get a little more concerned. However, the sun was shining and there were waves, and the fact that I was not working meant I could surf. So, I did; two surfs a day, beers in the evening watching sunsets at my favourite spot. 

One of my housemates had developed a cough, mild, then got better, she reckoned she had been slightly unwell and could have had a fever. I started to get a minor sore throat, a little tired maybe. I put it down to all the surfing I’d been doing. At this point there were hardly any cases reported in Cornwall where I live, I did not suspect that I was coming down with the coronavirus.

Monday the 233rd of March was the first news I had watched in a long time. The prime minister stood in front of flashing lights and small pulpit with his unkept blond wig-like hair and dictated in the voice of a drunken aristocrat the rules of social distancing and self-isolation. The question on many of our lips was, can we still surf? One form of exercise was allowed, so I guessed so…

The next day was big surf, spring tides, I went for a short surf, there was no one around. My chest started to feel tight, I put it down to nerves.

I got out and ran over to some tourists, two parents, two kids, marching towards the torrents of swirling rip synonymous with larger surf at Porthtowan and advised them not to enter the water. The run made me feel out of breath. What were they thinking entering such a dangerous ocean? I imagined if an incident had happened, no lifeguards. It would have been a tragedy 

That evening I was a little bit wheezy, I’m asthmatic so took my inhaler and fell asleep.

I woke the next morning, felt tired, my face felt sore and my ears were blocked but nothing that a big cup of coffee wouldn’t sort out. I quaffed my coffee and headed down to the beach, the sunshine seemed extra bright, my throat seemed extra dry, something did not seem right. I put it to the back of my mind as I drove through hazy morning towards the beach. I saw my friend at the carpark. We hurried getting changed, feeling like criminals, and ran down the cold stones and sand with a biting southeast wind on the back of our necks.  The surf was over head and clean, the sun was shining, the water green peaks that shifted on a swift moving tide.   

Action Shots: J-dog

I couldn’t breathe properly and felt cold in an unusual way

I had a few okay waves, some turns that felt nice, however, I was feeling strange.  I couldn’t breathe properly and felt cold in an unusual way. I was trying to shake it off as anxiety after all the world just entered an unpresented situation. I got a few more waves, took off late on one, didn’t make it. The wave held me down for a little longer than expected, as I surfaced, I started seeing stars. I took this as a bad sign. I got straight out of the water, got to the sand and noticed that I was not feeling good.  I walked back up the beach, the sky had started to wobble, and the air took on an uneasy viscosity. I saw my friends walking with their dog and child. I hardly spoke to them. I just wanted to get into my car and drive home. On returning to my car, people in the car park tried speaking to me but I couldn’t speak. I took a few more puffs of my inhaler and drove home. My inhaler didn’t alleviate the breathlessness I was feeling. I got home and I got in the shower in my wetsuit and felt like I was going to pass out. Half an hour passed, and my breathlessness waned. Maybe it was a panic attack I thought to myself, so I just continued my usual day; weeded the garden, made cheeseburgers and went for a walk to watch the sunset.

That evening I lay down to sleep and felt short of breath, worse than before, took my inhaler but it was useless. The thought lay thick and heavy across my chest: I have Covid! I called 111 for advice, I knew I had to self-isolate, I didn’t know when I should seek help. They just said, ‘self-isolate’ and repeated it robotically. I managed to get a few hours sleep. The next day I sat in my garden concentrating on breathing, my lungs felt tiny and brittle, I was unable to eat and feeling worried. That evening the symptoms appeared to lift. I thought I was over it, but it returned the next day and the pattern continued until the eighth day. I couldn’t move, my vision darkened, and my room swayed. Nausea set in and the air looked like liquid. 

I improved a little in the middle of the day, then evening came. As the sky darkened, I lay in my bed, freezing, then hot.  The walls in my room shivered, my bed side lamp glowed, dull and paler than usual and my sheets stuck to my clammy back. I messaged my flatmate. ‘I’m scared, help’ as my chest walls clamped tight around my lungs. He called an ambulance.  It was a short time before the ambulance crew turned up. Dark green uniforms floated through my door and hovered over the accumulated mess that had come with sickness and isolation, their masked faces stood over me as I heard the familiar questions. I got assessed, I wasn’t sick enough to go in hospital, they said. They gave me a nebulizer full of salbutamol (for asthma), this loosened my chest. They left around 2 a.m. The nebulized salbutamol is a stimulant so my heart was beating so hard I could hear it thumping on my mattress, I didn’t sleep.

They took me into hospital, I got my blood taken, chest X-rayed, but no Covid test.

Around 7am the salbutamol wore off, the tightness resumed in my chest. I had to call an ambulance again, I felt embarrassed but, how, when you’re struggling to breath do you know your breathing is not going to just stop altogether? I didn’t have a pulse oximeter at that point (a device for measuring oxygen saturation in the blood) and I started having a flash back to a time when I had gone, as paramedic student, to a women having an asthma attack; she was blue, her eyes bulged out of her head with panic, she was about to die, and we had just arrived on time to give her life saving treatment. I prayed I would not get that bad. The paramedics arrived; I knew them, they were nice people. My vitals where assessed and they were all normal. My temp was slightly raised, the only indication that I was sick was my spirometer (measuring how much can be expelled from air) reading half its usual strength.

They took me into hospital, I got my blood taken, chest X-rayed, but no Covid test. I wasn’t sick enough to stay in hospital, the x-ray was clear so I got sent home.

The next two weeks were full of nightmares, panic attacks, very little sleep and days on end feeling like I couldn’t breathe, in isolation, in my room with nothing but a phone screen for company. The TV on and laughter next door. Time passed and every neighbour was at home listening to music, sawing, grinding metal, drilling and talking in excited tones. The clocks changed; the evening light caught the budding branches of the treetops that lined the road opposite, spring was passing me by as I lay feeling hopeless.

I went back to the hospital after two weeks and got tested, it came back negative. I was still ill but the doctors put it down to lingering symptoms.

I moved back to live with my mum and sister, just took a small bag of clothes, thinking I’d be better in a week or two.  It felt good to be out of isolation, and get looked after by family, but the symptoms continued.

I’ve been here with my family for over a month now. I feel like my breathing is getting better slowly but I can’t do much, I have no energy, it’s strange to have no energy. I’m 33 years old and friends have said I was the fittest person they knew. Now I just play my guitar, draw, learn French and maybe go for a 5-minute walk on a good day.  I’ve been suffering with this for 8 weeks (at the time of writing) and improvement is slow.  I have to keep reminding myself, ‘I will get better, I will get better, I will get better, I will get better…I will get better.’

Brilliant Corners

Brilliant Corners

Sam's journey through Madagascar begins in the busy streets of Antananarivo, the nation's capital. He's soon joined by travel companions from his home in Cornwall, UK. James Parry and Mike Lay bring their longboarding style along for this once in a lifetime adventure. The three set out on a 900-kilometer road trip to explore the vast country on their way to discover the swell of the trip.

Pohaku Division 2 – Mason Ho likes surfing lava part 307

Pohaku Division 2 – Mason Ho likes surfing lava part 307

Mason Ho picks up Sheldon Paishon at 4am for a surf towards the South Shore. This wave breaks directly on a reef shelf and is heavily localized by the boys that live there.

Plus a bonus section at the very end. Mason & Sheldon surf a secret zone. We’ve never seen or heard of anybody trying it before.

What Lies Beneath: Sharks!

What Lies Beneath: Sharks!

In case you needed any further proof that we are playing in someone elses back yard, check out the drone footage above. The ocean is a shared playground for many, and a home and hunting ground for many more. The introduction of 'the drone' into the line-up has opened up the interaction between humans and ocean dwellers and captured it in a way we would never dream of, what lies beneath, mother natures beauty and beasts.

Nikita Avdeev – The surfer from Siberia

Nikita Avdeev – The surfer from Siberia

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Most likely if you leaving in big city or a popular surf destination you all time surf with bunch of other people … but not here , no one in the water for 100 km around , except of seals . Today when I woke up at the edge of the world and saw some massive barreling sets I couldn’t believe that it is not Hossegor or Super Tubos or any other well known beach break in the world … but 8 degrees water and 10 outside remind me that this is Russia, this is Kamchatka and because of amazing people here , now it is my second home , home in the middle of wild life , Pacific Ocean and volcanoes 🌋 So happy to be here , and so happy to score those bombs alone , and over the sky that you can get waves like that in Russia 🇷🇺 Thank you @snowave_kamchatka and all local crew of amazing humans for hospitality and we have all summer in front of us , let’s rock 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻 📸 by @mayisky /// Когда я сегодня с утра вышел на пляж , я не верил что это Россия, не верил что эти трубы в рост и выше не сон и что это не Хосгор или Пениш , или любой другой всемирно известный бич брейк . Но вода в 8 градусов напомнила где я нахожусь, картинка лайн-апа , как это часто бывает , оказалась обманчива , так много течения во все стороны и такого быстрого изменения пика , и вбивающие в дно волны я не припомню в одном месте сразу . Ко всему к этому ты один на протяжении нескольких десятков километров , лишь нерпа поглядывает переодически на тебя , да заснеженные пики вулканов … но в итоге я нашёл то , что искал этим утром , почти что идеальную трубу в рост в России , на краю света , на Камчатке … Спасибо огромное @snowave_kamchatka и всем местным ребятам за гостеприимство и помощь , могу сказать лишь , что у нас все лето впереди , а это значит надо вкатывать на все 110% на таких крутых волнах нашей Родины ! 📸 @mayisky

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We don’t get too many messages Russian surfers, even less from surfers who spent their grom hood mainly in Siberia! In fact Nikita Avdeev is the only one. So we had to find out more.

How did you become a surfer coming from inland Siberia… It’s not your usual route!

My dad was one of pioneers of windsurfing and kitesurfing and I was lucky to travel with him. I saw surfing in one of his magazines and it was like “Wow. that’s what I wanna do.” So we went to Vietnam and I saw waves first time in my life. I body surfed them and my parents saw my passion. Then we went to Bali for two weeks. I tried surfing and fully fell in love. After that the would take  me twice a year for surf trip like a two weeks or so somewhere. The rest of thee time I was stuck at school .

And then I won first Russian junior championship and went to ISA games, which was first time a surfer shad cemented there in Russian history. I got some support from Russian friends and companies. After I grew up I got some wins in the Open competition in Russia and start competing a lot. I got to top 10 in Europe Junior Championships 2018 and now represents Russia trying to qualify for Olympics.

Was it tough?

The worst thing for me was time wasting at home. Since I started to surf around 8 till 17 years old I was spending 8-11 months at home with no waves and I could only some skate if there was no snow outside. And when I was competing I was going crazy because I had to stay inland with no waves while others had waves all time, almost every day. I was stuck in Siberia. That was the heaviest part, but now I realised that it was good to be hungry for the waves and be working out how to spend your time in the ocean smartly in.

There are quite a few Russian surfers now. Do you all surf at home or mainly travelling?

I am super stoked to tell you we have some guys who never went out of Russia or who fully learn how to surf in Russia. One of those guys is Anton Morozov. He is based in Kamchatka and he learned everything he knows by himself! But most of our surfers leaving Bali or Portugal and are travelling a lot .

What are the main areas in Russia you can you surf?

You may see over 100 people in at Saints Petersburg if it is ok swell and if it good it get super crowded. Same in Sochi (the Black Sea), the West part of Russia (Vladivostok , Sakhalin , Kamchatka ) is less crowded (almost empty) but still a lot more surfers than a 5-10 years ago and surf schools and surf shops !

The biggest problem is swell which may come once a month or more often once every two weeks. The only place where you may surf all year almost every day is Kamchatka where I am now, and it is like Hossegor or Supertubos, but only you and your friends. Also you can surf on the Arctic side of Russia but again you need some luck to get a good swell.

Is your government supporting you with training programmes or anything for the Olympics? They have had really big programmes in the past with other sports.

We have got some support for the team, at least we have now a coach who is going to Europe and ISA with us. And you can even have a salary as an Olympic athlete, but of course it is tiny compare to hockey, soccer or anything like that and there is no real a base for team training. But more and more non governmental company’s are getting in surfing in Russia. It is getting more popular and more mainstream, which is probably more good than bad.