God’s Crack; Japan.

God’s Crack; Japan.

And welcome to our journey through a wave and rock structure named 'God's Crack' located in northern Japan. I was over in Japan shooting something else entirely when my friend I was cruising with, Keito Matsuoka, mentioned he had a weird wave for me... and low and behold, there was this wave breaking between a very narrow crack in between two rocks. From the beach it didn't really look doable, so we decided to paddle out and have a look, but we all know what that means once you get out the back. Arigato - Dylan Graves

Surfer Attacked By Shark

Surfer Attacked By Shark

Kai McKenzie, 23, from Bonny Hills, was in the surf at North Shore Beach in Port Macquarie when he was attacked about 11am on Tuesday. He saw the shark approach and was able to fight it off but suffered a severed right leg.

Clinging to life, he was able to catch a wave back to the beach. A retired police officer used his dog’s lead as a tourniquet to stem the bleeding before the victim could be airlifted to hospital.

Kai is currently in John Hunter Hospital where he has had surgery and is in a stable condition. As you can imagine, the upcoming medical expenses for his recovery and rehabilitation is something no one would ever be prepared for. The funds raised will go in assisting Kai in every aspect of his recovery.

Please dig deep for this family to assist with Kai’s recovery and rehabilitation. I am a neighbour of The McKenzie’s. They are a local family with hearts of gold that would never expect or ask anything of anybody, so let’s give back and show them that they have the communities support in this. - Lauren Mac 

Lauren Mac, friend and neighbour of Kai McKenzie, has launched a GoFundMe to support the surfer, hit the link below to help if you can. Our thoughts go out to kai, his friends and family and all those affected during this difficult time.

Photo: NSW Police

ATLAS | A surf movie by Bear Surfboards

ATLAS | A surf movie by Bear Surfboards

Surfing has improved the lives of many people in Morocco but unfortunately there are also some negative implications hidden in the shadow of world famous waves.

Surf tourism can be good or bad, depending on how it is handled. Atlas collects testimonies of people sharing very diverse views on the matter. All opinions will help to increase the awareness of those like us, surfers and travellers, who fell in love with Morocco.

Bombs We Love – Teahupo’o

Bombs We Love – Teahupo’o

My third trip this year to Tahiti this season for what was the biggest swell of the year. And it did not disappoint, wait till you see the Kauli Vaast's bomb. With Teahupo'o set to stage the Olympics, this big Thursday swell lived to up to all the hype and expectations. Both the tow and paddle a line-up was full of big names and energy.

Enjoy! - Tim Bonython

Desensitised

Desensitised

DESENSITISED, is my debut surf film. This documentary-style film follows my evolution from a fearless 13-year-old to a seasoned big-wave surfer. Centered around three iconic Australian breaks that have defined my career, it showcases my path into the world of big-wave surfing.

Thrown into the deep end as a young teen, gaining confidence with every wave. At 14, I took that confidence to one of the world's most iconic surf spots in Australia, Shipstern Bluff. Normally, it's an unwritten rule that you have to paddle the place before towing, but that first day, I was let off the hook as it was unpaddable, witnessing surfing legends like Marty Paradisis and Tyler Homer-Cross catching 20-foot waves. Fast forward a decade, and now find myself in a position chasing down those set waves.

DESENSITISED is a tribute to 10 years of trials, triumphs, and relentless dedication. Experience the highs and lows of my surf journey as I chase the ultimate ride and push myself to see what's possible in the realm of big-wave surfing.

Of course, this is just the beginning. Follow along as I continue living The Search. - Kipp Caddy

Directed by: Kipp Caddy
Filmed: Cameron Staunton, Chris Bryan, Mark Bramley, Tim bonython
Edited: Cameron Staunton
Sound Design: Ahmed Natiq
Colour Grade: Tim Wreyford
Presented by: Rip Curl

Shawn Dennis – Tunnel Vision

Shawn Dennis – Tunnel Vision

“I think what brought me to Indonesia was the allure of good waves, but also the freedom that you find here. I’d only planned to be in Indonesia for two months, then a one or two-month trip turned into three years…”

Interestingly enough, you meet a lot of folks whose trips went that way around Bali. They just don’t all get as insanely tubed as Shawn Dennis. Check out the short film on this Saffa transplant, featuring a few tubes from Shawn’s “extended stay.” @driftersurf