South Swell Storyrider

South Swell Storyrider

Being thrown into the unknown can feel like a nightmare. But what if the unknown turns out to be fun? This is the story of a rare moment when the rules of surfing in Portugal are completely upended.

Southern swells are a rare phenomenon—just a handful appear each year. When surfers spot one on the horizon, it sparks an undeniable excitement. It’s a break from the norm. Our coastline is designed for northern swells, so encountering something different feels like tackling a math test after prepping for Portuguese—but with far less panic and way more curiosity.

So, what happens to surfing when the familiar sea transforms into something entirely unexpected?

That’s what we set out to discover.

Produced by: @duarte_lapa

Below Freezing Shallow Irish Slab

Below Freezing Shallow Irish Slab

G Man takes us on a quick 1hr pov surf , surfing in below freezing conditions.

“Winter has finally come. The first day of freezing temperatures made going surfing a bit more difficult this day but surfing a perfect slab with just one friend out made it a whole lot better.”

 

Keep on keeping on: The 73 year-old surfer

Keep on keeping on: The 73 year-old surfer

A short film about 73 year young surfer Eric Davies. Eric has won multiple surfing titles across multiple decades, battled cancer and is a great example of how 70 is the new 30… Maybe 40… with more and more surfers staying fit, stoked and ripping into retirement!

Filmed in North Devon by Tom Bowman it recently won ‘Shortie of the Year’ at London Surf Film Festival 2024.

Big Give Christmas Challenge

Big Give Christmas Challenge

The Wave Project, the leading UK charity using Surf Therapy to support children and young people, is set to participate for the third consecutive year in the Big Give's Christmas Challenge. The charity has set an ambitious fundraising target of £100,000 to expand its vital services across the UK.

From the 3rd– 10th December 2024, The Wave Project aims to raise £50,000 in donations, which will be matched pound-for-pound by the Big Give. This funding will enable the charity to extend its reach to even more children across its 16 locations, from Newquay to Edinburgh and Bristol to Portrush. More children than ever are struggling with their mental health and wellbeing. The demand for mental health services has increased dramatically in recent years. The Wave Project uses Surf Therapy to support children as young as eight who have faced significant life challenges, including bullying, bereavement, abuse, neglect and discrimination. The programme has proven effective in boosting confidence, resilience and self-esteem among participants.

The campaign kicks off on the 3rd of December, which is also Giving Tuesday, providing an excellent opportunity for supporters to maximise their impact. A contribution of £35 could provide a wetsuit for a child to participate in The Wave Project’s programmes, while £83 could fund a single Surf Therapy session. For those able to give more, £600 could support a child through an entire 6-week Surf Therapy course. Normally, these services would cost twice as much, but with the Big Give Christmas Challenge, your donation goes much further. Ramon Van de Velde, Chief Executive Officer at The Wave Project, said: "We are currently supporting over 2,100 children and young people annually, but our goal is to increase this to 2,500 in the coming year. It has been a challenging time for most charities due to the cost-of-living crisis and current fundraising climate and we are no exception. People’s generosity to help us improve young lives is more needed now than ever and this Christmas Challenge is our opportunity to make a significant impact for those who need it most."

To get involved, visit Waveproject.co.uk and donate from the 3rd of December 2024. All donations made to The Wave Project will be doubled. This means that every contribution, regardless of size, will have twice the impact on the lives of young people struggling with their mental heath.

Surfboards from Beeswax.

Surfboards from Beeswax.

A few years ago we featured  an article on a project making surfboards from seaweed, Charlie Cadin is back. This time with the help of bees, could this be the way forward to reduce the environmental impact of surfboards?

"I have made a resin from beeswax, it's the only 100% bio-based and fully biodegradable resin on the planet, disappearing in one month when buried. This reduces the environmental impact hugely, and when combined with a wood or recyclable foam core the possibilities are cool. The biggest thing to me about this project is that it is so simple and cheap to do, hopefully encouraging people to try making their own boards, as glassing can be scary at first."

@Charlie.cadin