Surfing giant and consequential waves with a messed up body part is so far from an ideal scenario. What’s it like?
Was it painful surfing the event with the injury?
Yeah it was throbbing pain the whole time. Any pressure on it and I thought it would snap. I just strapped it up tight as, which gave me some piece of mind that she was solid.
Big wave surfing is daunting. You need to be on your game all day, every day, and never turn your back on the ocean.
Any moments for you during the event that were off the scale scary?
Every wave.
The best thing in any sport however, is to be recognised.
Now we have a tour. We are a solid component of the World Surf League.
How does it feel to be on a legitimate Big Wave Tour?
I'm so grateful for this opportunity, which is why I surfed on an injury. And will give it everything I have. But my goal has never been or will be to win contests. I dream of riding big barrels. If that's in an event then epic, if not, it'll feel just as good.
It also really helps to have an inspired season and for someone, anyone, to notice.
How does it feel to be one of the top four performers in the big wave realm last year?
That means a lot. The last few years I have been pushing myself further than I imagined. To be recognised by my peers was rad. Again, the only person I compete with is myself though, so it's not about winning things.
I just want to keep improving and growing as a person and surfer.
Then we get the whole Hawaiian drama, and the terror that exists at Pe’ahi. It’s a helluva place, with an amazing backstory, and quite possibly the most perfect big wave on the planet. Some have called it simply a massive Lances Right. Lowey once surfed one of the craziest backhand barrels there on a giant pink board, and he actually exited one of the best backhand tubes seen there, before unfortunately going over the handlebars hitting a bump. So Mr Lowe is pretty self-effacing about the joint.
Have you had much experience at Jaws? What’s that wave really like?
I've been there for two big swells, so not much experience at all. I love the wave though, as frightening as it is. I hope to come out of a barrel out there one day. Technically it's a huge challenge for any surfer, especially on your backside. Trying to negotiate a 10"6 with all that water moving is as hard as it comes. Well done to all the guys who pioneered that humbling venue!
Surfing has its moments. There are good times and bad. Sometimes when the going gets a bit tough, you just have to roll with it.
What’s the best thing for you about surfing right now?
Well I can't surf, my ankles farked! Nah, I'll be sweet by the time the mag comes out. It's minor enough, needs some rest and rehab is all. Best thing about surfing now is that feeling never changes. It's my happy place to meditate, be free, express myself and connect with nature.
Who could imagine that Jaws, Nazaré or Puerto could be a ‘happy place’ for anyone? Goes to show…