Street life

We all know the power of surfing, don’t we? That feeling of complete immersion and undivided presence in a moment that it can bring. It fills our heart and settles the soul. Whether trimming along an unbroken wave or simply floating whilst admiring a burning sun sink beneath the horizon. These are all simple pleasures that surfers share and relate to. But what if the power stretched further than that? What if it defined a life and without it there lay a chasm seismic enough to fit drugs, violence and potentially death within?

This is the reality of the lives of street children and the story of the children I have just had the pleasure of meeting and sharing the simple joy of surfing with in Durban, South Africa.
Before I embark on a South African tale I’ll provide the basis for which the trip was born from. I work as part of a wonderful organisation, Surfing England, that has experienced a journey of its own and I am one of the fortunate few who has helped navigate the voyage. We recently reached a major destination so the time to take a short break was upon me. So when Tom Hewitt, founder of charity Surfers Not Street Children asked “would I like to go on an adventure”, I simply responded: yes.
I arrived in Durban in early January. Leaving the English winter behind (not a difficult decision) and donning the boardies and factor fifty (still burned).

My initial reaction to Durban …“this. Is. mental”. Tom was quick to spot my wide-eyed surprise and enlightened me that the tens of thousands of people at the beach wasn’t normal, this was in fact the last day of holiday” – but he reminded me to keep my eyes wide open for the experience ahead.
Surfers Not Street Children is not only a noble and impactful charity, which receives the regular thumbs up from people such as the Pope and Prince Harry, but more than that … it is a lifeline.
A lifeline that has changed many lives. None more so that Sihle Mbutho. A wonderful soul with a bumpy past. Born in the township slums of Durban he’s grown from a street kid with days of stealing, extreme violence and drugs now in the past thanks to the amazing work of Surfers Not Street Children. He’s becoming independent and has aspirations to one day have a job and support himself and his family.
I travelled through Africa with him and his infectious laughter, our journey took us from Durban to Mozambique (head north from Durban, it’s only a 25-hour drive!) and back, as I listened to his crazy stories in awe and in realisation of my sheltered and wonderful upbringing, knowing how different two lives can be. He lost both his parents to Aids and he’s seen things beyond my worst nightmares, but he wears a smile bigger than most. He took us to his township shanty town, opening my eyes to poverty at its worst, but he’s still proud of his roots as they make him who he is. He mainly spends his time shredding any waves he can find, he can now even count Jordy Smith and Kelly Slater as friends and fans, and his surfing ability is second to none. But beyond that, surfing has truly changed his life, in fact it is his life, I asked him, “What would you be doing if you weren’t surfing or part of this charity?” He answered unequivocally and without hesitation, “I’d probably be dead.” This startling hypothesis wasn’t born from statistics, it came from his reality and the knowing of friends and peers, that he walked his early path with but no longer roam this world.

Africa is a beautiful place with some brutal realities. On my final day with the charity we took a group of 8-16 year olds surfing. I could sense a partial stand-offish nature to me, but to be fair if some overly frothing white guy with a moustache was trying to high-five me then I would probably avoid him too. None the less we all soon bonded and just before they entered the water the group leader said some words to me, which sent a shiver down my spine and rocked me to my core.
“It’s crazy these kids are all going to rehab next week aye?”
“What do you mean?” I responded.
He looked at me and quietly muttered, “Nick, these kids are all drug addicts.” He went on to explain many of them get introduced to drugs from five or six years old, they survive on the streets any way they can, but that their charity tackles this and uses surfing as the tool for change.
But in front of me, practicing their paddling in the sand, lay a group of kids. In the moments where they take that plunge, they paddle for the waves, and they ride to the shore – it is just the simplest of joys and happiness spreads like wildfire throughout. For a short time they are no longer defined as street children, young offenders or drug addicts, they are, simply … kids surfing.

The charity take on the responsibility to support, nurture, and house and help these kids. Those who make it all the way eventually “graduate” and then enter an independent living programme. Tom will even aim to employ them at the charity as roles such as lifeguards and coaches.
The message that hit home and that anyone can take from this is the power of an idea, an appreciation that people can create change and the power of sport. Surfing can and does change lives. In this story the hero has a name, it’s Surfers Not Street Children, the idea had a source in Tom Hewitt, the story has a face, it’s Sihle, but it’s bigger than that – it’s an agreement with oneself that change can be made, how big or small is just up to the dreamer. My trip away has made me understand that dreaming is a privilege, and our ability to dream and take action towards achieving this is a real privilege. A privilege that I, Surfing England, Surfers Not Street Children and fortunately many of the surfing world embrace, but more can always be done, so identify the cause and commit to the challenge of bringing change.

For more info check out surfnotstreets.org

8 REMAIN AFTER DAY 1 OF RIP CURL CUP

Bali, Indonesia – Sunday, 15th July 2018: After a long slumber, Padang Padang roared back to life for the opening rounds of the Rip Curl Cup 2018 on Sunday. A bombing southwest swell brought 6 to 8 foot offshore barrels to Bali’s most iconic wave and an extreme afternoon low tide made for plenty of drama – and carnage – as competitors tried to survive the warping double ups and avoid the dry jagged reef on the inside.

After completing Rounds 1 and 2 in epic conditions, the eight remaining surfers could potentially resume competition and crown the 2018 Rip Curl Cup Champion on Monday morning. Alternatively, a monster swell – the largest to hit Indonesia in years – is looming for Thursday, July 19th, and event directors are considering holding out to finish The Ultimate Tuberiding Contest on the peak of the Thursday swell.

What started as a field of 16 elite tube riders – an even split between 8 of the world’s best and 8 of Indonesia’s top Padang specialsits – has now been cut in half. The draw is still an even split between local surfers and visitors, but the standout performers on Day 1 were clearly a pair of young guns from Western Australia, Jacob Willcox and Jack Robinson.

In his opening round campaign, Robinson posted the highest scoring ride on the day, a draining double barrel on his backhand that drew roars from the throngs gathered on the cliff and a 9.7 from the judges. He backed it up with another impressive deep tube for an 8.75, comboing his three competitors. Robinson would later follow it up with another 8.75 in his Round 2 heat, cruising to the Semi Finals.

“You had to play it a little careful out there,” Robinson said. “We had good tide in my first heat with real good condiitions, but by my second heat it was too low for me. It was the luck of the draw out there because you don’t know what you’re gonna get with each wave when the tide is so low. But I got the job done, and that’s all that matters.”

Willcox, meanwhile, surfed in back-to-back heats – an hour straight – and managed to win them both, taming the mutant barrels masterfully on his forehand and finishing with the highest combined Round 1 and 2 heat total of the day.

“I think that was the second time I’ve surfed two heats back-to-back with no break at the Rip Curl Cup,” Willcox said. “It actually worked out good. When I first paddled out it was perfect tide, but I noticed that it was drawing out fast. The local kid who was caddying for me, Ketut, told me to go on the first wave of the set and it was such valuable information. The first waves were way better, not those weird doubling up things.”

Sunday’s Round 1 of competition was non-elimination. The eight surfers with the highest combined heat total from Rounds 1 and 2 advanced to the Semifinals.

Surfers and event directors will reconvene at Padang Padang on Monday morning (July 16th) at 6AM for a possible 7AM start to run the Semifinals. Solid 6-foot sets continued to detonate over the reef at Padang on dark Sunday evening, promising more contestable barrels for Monday morning. However a much larger swell – perhaps even too large for Padang – is shaping up to slam Indonesia on Thursday, July 19th, and holding out for the second swell is also a possibility.

Robinson, the star of Day 1, is hoping event directors decide to wait until Thursday’s mega swell to finish the 2018 version of the Rip Curl Cup.

“If it’s too big, it’s better than being too small,” Robinson said. “There’s bound to be some in between ones that are really good.”

Following are the upcoming Semifinal heats:

Semifinal 1
Jacob Willcox (AUS)
Bruno Santos (BRA)
Agus “Blacky” Setiawan (IND)
Made Adi Putra (IND)

Semifinal 2
Jack Robinson (AUS)
Mega Semadhi (IND)
Josh Kerr (AUS)

The Duke and Duchess of Cornwall celebrate 15 years of Finisterre and Ocean Plastic Solution Day

The Prince of Wales (“Charlie did surf!”) and the Duchess of Cornwall swung by the second Ocean Plastic Solution Day held between the SAS and Finsterre HQs in St Agnes yesterday. The visit punctuated a really cool event which also celebrated the 15 year anniversary off Finisterre founded with a Prince’s Trust loan back in 2003.

The Ocean Plastics Solutions day brought together key business leaders, innovators, NGOs, politicians, media and other key stakeholders to discuss and demonstrate the progress society is making in tackling ocean plastic pollution from source to sea. Professor Richard Thompson OBE from Plymouth University, Lucy Siegle from BBC’s The One Show, world-class freediver Hanli Prinsloo, Richard Walker from Iceland Supermarkets, and United Nations Patron for the Oceans, Lewis Pugh all gave really interesting and inspirational presentations on subjects from Prof Thompsons 30 plus years of research into the ocean plastics problem to Richard Walker, who has to be the coolest MD of a supermarket chain in the world leading the brand into fights against palm oil,plastics, and the decimation of rainforests…he also surfs…
Check his speech.

More MD’s like this one please ^^ … Take note Richard Branson..


Mid way through the morning HRH’s met Tom Kay and team fifteen years on from the PT loan, even finding the original letter they sent to Tom to set him on his way. Which given the amount of paper work they must have was a great effort. The Duke of Cornwall was introduced to Finisterre’s Wetsuit Recycling Programme, while the Duchess met with the design team to hear more about their pioneering approach to sustainability through innovation.

“To have Prince Charles, the Duke of Cornwall visit Finisterre to commemorate our 15th anniversary was a special moment. I founded Finisterre with the help of the Prince’s Trust loan back in 2003. More recently, I wrote to HRH thanking him for his support in the early years, inviting him to visit Wheal Kitty and see our work around sustainability and innovation first-hand. For him to join our anniversary celebrations, witnessing how the business has grown, meeting the team who’ve been fundamental in this journey, and our unwavering commitment to Product, Environment and People, was a real honour. HRH was particularly interested in our work around ocean plastic awareness and using innovation to achieve sustainability, as well as the duties we’ve committed to in order to become a B Corp certified business.”
Tom Kay, founder; Finisterre

Just before he left HRH was presented what a wooden belly board, to which he quipped “Is this an old mans board?” Legend…

Bringing together some of the most powerful and influential voices in the quest for cleaner, healthier seas, Ocean Plastic Solutions Day presented a positive view to better future, with the power to bring about great change.

It was great day all round and should really be opened up into a bigger event so the invitees can speak face to face with the general public.

Beyond the WSL

One of the brightest lights in the surfing firmament hung up his contest rashie for good. The Bells event was his last CT event and a fitting place to bow out of his stellar competitive career. Mick, of course, isn’t retiring totally, there is an awful lot of planet left for him to explore as Sharpy found out.

Photos Redbull content pool

What’s the worst part about being a brewery owner?
The recycling bin at home is always full. Umm … other than that there really isn’t any downside.

Have there been any more sessions at the Snake to your knowledge?
Not that I know of. I still frequently get asked where it is. I’ll never tell.

You’re more well travelled than most surfers on the planet, are there any spots still on your hit list?
There are still heaps, nowhere in particular though. There are world class waves I want to check out but also some countries and destinations that have novelty waves I’d love to experience.

Who are your favourite people to travel with? Both surfer and photog/filmer wise.
Travelling for me is more about the people I meet along the way. In saying that I’ve been on the road with my photog mate Corey Wilson and he always makes things pretty damn funny. Mason Ho is also a classic to explore with. One of my favourite things to do is take friends from home on trips to places I’ve been before. I get to show them around and it makes the adventure feel fresh for me too.

Shooting that Northern Lights session in Norway how cold was it surfing at night in the Arctic Circle?
Pretty damn cold. Shrivel factor was extreme. In saying that you’re going to the Arctic so you’re mentally prepared and you got all the gear for it. Nothing a good old soak in a hot tub didn’t fix.

Insane as the wave pools are getting won’t the lack of paddle battles and wave choice remove the drama?
I don’t think so. There will still be drama when competitors are chasing scores and they only have one opportunity to nail it. It’s one event in the schedule that will have a really unique feel and we don’t really know what format they’ll run with or if the criteria will be any different. I think it’s gonna be fun.

Following up pool comps will become more like half pipe comps, all about nailing a routine, are the judges ready for that?
We’ll see. I’m not sure they’ve locked down the criteria for it just yet. The WSL has had plenty of time to run through the event plan and I’m sure they’re exploring the best formula for the Surf Ranch event.

Does the muscle you tore off your arse still give you gip when it’s cold?
It’s actually not too bad. I’m always stretching it and doing Pilates so it doesn’t tighten up.

Did you ever expect a sandal with a bottle opener in the sole to be such a winner?
Not as much as it has. It felt like it could be something that surfers might find useful but I’ve been to some landlocked parts of the world and seen people rocking the sandal and that kind of blows my mind. I’m sure they have no idea who I am but the idea of a bottle opener in your sandals gets them over the line.

How much does it pain you to miss a cyclone swell at home?
It stings for sure, nothing better than getting shacked at home. I’ve been lucky enough to catch so many good waves around the world while my mates back home are getting nothing so I don’t complain about a missed swell here and there though.

You have been an emotional roller coaster over the last 18 months or so. What is the most valuable lesson you have learned? There is a huge crisis in men’s mental health at the moment. Issues about anxiety, depression, isolation, high rates of suicide and the conflict between ‘being a man’ and being able to talk problems through. Any advice for people reading this who are suffering.
First up there’s nothing wrong with telling friends and family that you aren’t doing so great but you have to be open to accepting their help. I leaned on my mates through the hard times and they were there for me in a big way.

Post Bells are you going to get stuck in to making some of the sickest Search films ever? And if so can we come?
I’m definitely looking forward to going on The Search with Rip Curl and some of the team. It’s going to be fun to explore some different locations that aren’t tour stops. Can you come? That depends. Can you keep a secret?

You can follow Mick on Instagram here

BIG WAVE SURFER COTTY TO HOST NORTH DEVON CHARITY SCREENING OF ANDY IRONS: KISSED BY GOD

Andy Irons was a hero and role model to surfers all over the world. But his untimely death in 2010, aged just 32, opened up a darker side of his life previously unseen by the public.

Eight years later, the story of his struggle with mental illness and addiction is being told by the people who knew him best in a new biopic, Andy Irons: Kissed By God.

While not on general release in the UK, a group of North Devon surfers have organised a screening at the Landmark in Ilfracombe where 100% of the profits raised will go to good causes: @Worryingcyclist, who is raising money for Mental Health by cycling around the world; and Jojo, a young girl with a rare genetic condition called Prader-Willi Syndrome, which necessitates specialist physiotherapy.

Ian Blake, owner of Bay Spas Hot Tubs and an organiser of the event, comments: “By putting on this event, we’re hoping to turn Andy Irons’ story of struggle into something positive for our community.”

Big Wave Surfer Andrew Cotton, who will host the event, said: “Andy Irons’ was a legend and inspired so many of us to follow what we love doing. I’ve got no doubt he’d be stoked to see his story being used as a force for good. I also can’t wait to see it.”

The screening will be on July 26th 2018 at the Landmark Theatre.

Tickets cost £10 and are available at https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/kissed-by-god-andy-irons-charity-film-night-tickets-47920889671?utm_term=eventurl_text

Event updates and further information can be found on the Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/events/471588676628155/?ti=ia

All profits from the event will go to @WorryingCyclist and Jojo Shapland.