Bali is known for its long, winding lefts rather than thick lipped slabs. But this chunk of reef sculpted some serious kegs - and there were more than enough chargers ready to throw themselves over the ledge and into the best barrels we've seen in quite a while.
There were plenty of broken boards and a couple of injuries, which isn't exactly shocking. It's a heavy looking wave from start to finish, the inside section particularly sketchy.
There was a time when you would never really see anyone over 30 surfing, but these days surf communities are filled with multiple generations of frothers from knee high groms to gnarly old sea dogs who had it much better, for longer and pretty much invented anything cool you ever thought of. They are not going quietly into that good night and on any given pumping day down the local one will pull a corker out of the bag and show everyone how it should be done.
Step forward Pete Taplin, 62 year old south coast local.
Words by Rob Bain.
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In the premiere episode of this six-part documentary series, immerse yourself in the adrenaline-pumping world of Big Wave surfing and meet one of the sport’s largest figures, Hawaii’s own Billy Kemper. Follow Billy as he joins up with fellow pro surfers Koa Smith and Luke Davis and heads for Morocco on a strike mission that will alter his life forever.
After cementing himself in the top tier of big wave surfers taking the Cape Fear crown, Russ has continued on his quest of paddling the most terrifying waves on the planet, and to great success. However not as commonly known, but equally as impressive as his surfing performances, is his character. Laid back, approachable and wise beyond his years. If he isn’t driving around in the old faithful land cruiser (that’s clocked an impressive 600,000kms) hunting ocean caverns that would send most of running home, he’s under the surface with his speargun looking for his next meal.
We’re only in the first few chapters of his story, so this film takes us back to the beginning for a brief history of Russell Bierke and how he got to where he is today.
The first swell of 2021 has arrived in Nias, no crowd, clean waves and low tide in the morning and evening made this day the perfect kick off for the season 2021.
Join surfings own Harry Bryant for a laugh out loud comedy full of gags and hi-jinx that will leave the whole family hungry for more.
