Carve Magazine Issue 224

Carve Magazine Issue 224

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Hello and welcome to issue 224!

Autumn just doesn’t seem to cut it compared to autumns past. No idea why. Scientists are baffled too. Despite warm water and all the indications of a booming hurricane season, the Atlantic switched off (at least at the time of going to print it had, but our fingers are still crossed). Anyway, to remind you of good times, September swells and crisp offshores, we rounded up some of the best autumn shots we could find of the UK and Ireland. You can find them on page 82. If we collectively manifest, maybe we can all get a few decent surfs before Christmas! Back in the 00’s I took a crew off to Ecuador to explore the coast. Our host and new friend Eddie Salazar took us on an adventure and we’ve remained friends ever since. In 2000 he moved to the Galapagos Islands to run surf charters but, like many of us, as he became more attached to the place he wanted to do more. It's not just about the waves, it’s the ambience, the people and just some kind of serendipity and intuition that tells us it is where we are meant to be.

That place could be the likes of Brighton’s surf and skate spots that Grant Winter features on page 22, but for Eddie it was a small island in the middle of the Pacific. After making it his home, he went on a mission to remove non-indigenous plant species in order to protect the local fauna and flora, and bring the area it back to its natural glory. And he’s winning! Read his remarkable story on page 48 and if you’re inspired by it you are invited go and join him. Earlier this month we announced Gary McCall as the winner of the dryrobe® x Carve Photo of the Year competition, for his photo of Lucas Chumbo at Mullaghmore. It is outstanding! Despite our exposure to short clips and addiction to various apps on our phones, there is still something utterly mesmerising about a photo in print which captures the beauty and drama of surfing in a single moment. Gary’s shot did exactly that, so we catch up with him for a chat on page 56.

Speaking of amazing surf shots and their enduring nature, our cover shot had us absolutely spellbound. There is something unfathomable about the power and thickness of the wave, the colour, the depth and control of the ride by Keala Kennelly, and the positioning of the photographer – legend Tim McKenna. It is mind-blowing and we couldn’t stop looking at it. Still can't. The fact it is from 2016 adds to the kudos deserved by both surfer and photographer. Simply put, it's one of the best surf shots and rides of all time. And there’s more: Barnaby Cox leaves home to find waves and work in tropical paradise, we go on an adventure through Chile, and big wave surfing in Tasmania. As you thumb through these pages I would encourage you to take a moment to take in the detail of each shot – the colours, the wave form, the way water is flowing beneath boards, or the curl of the lip. Each wave, each ride, each moment is unique. It is a truly amazing thing. Then go out and create your own moments and hold them in your mind’s eye. They will last forever, through good and bad times, and lead you on paths you may never have dreamt of.

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Tya Zebrowski / Lukas Skinner Take The Win

Tya Zebrowski (FRA) and Lukas Skinner (GBR) from Team Rip Curl won the World Surf League (WSL) Specialty Event, the Caraïbos Surf de Nuit Anglet presented by Rip Curl on Friday evening in fun, wedgy two-foot peaks. Thousands of spectators were treated to exciting surfing and a spectacular fireworks display, celebrating the 30th year of this iconic event.

Featuring some of Europe’s best surfers, six teams competed in support of a charity of their choice. The 2024 winners, Zebrowski and Skinner from Team Rip Curl donated their prize money to Handi Surf, an adaptive surfing organization launched in 2012.

Young phenom Tya Zebrowski (FRA) scored the best wave in the women’s heat with a 7.00 (out of a possible 10), while Lukas Skinner (GBR) came out on top in the men’s heat with an excellent 9.40 for a huge air. This secured Team Rip Curl’s spot in the Final and they were joined by Team Caraïbos and Team Billabong.

The Final was a bit slower, as surfers struggled to find their position in the lineup. Zebrowski pushed Team Rip Curl into the lead with two strong turns to earn a 6.00. As time ran out, Skinner landed a technical and clean frontside air to give Team Rip Curl a solid lead.

Team Billabong’s Sam Piter (FRA) scored the best wave in the Final with a 6.67 for a big frontside air in the last 30 seconds, and teammate Aelan Vaast (FRA) also threw down a big turn, but judges deemed it incomplete and they had to settle for second place. French veterans Joan Duru (FRA) and Maud le Car (FRA) representing Team Caraïbos finished in third.

“It’s my first time at this event, and my first time ever surfing at night,” Skinner reacted. “It was a really cool experience with all the lights and it was so fun to surf with all these incredible people and teaming up with Tya, thanks to everyone who made this happen.”

The Caraïbos Surf de Nuit Anglet presented by Rip Curl has a competition window from Friday, September 13, 2024 to Saturday, September 14, 2024 weather permitting.

Catch all the highlights and more from the Caraïbos Surf de Nuit Anglet presented by Rip Curl on WorldSurfLeague.com, the WSL YouTube or free WSL app, as well as the WSL QS Facebook page.

The Caraïbos Surf de Nuit Anglet presented by Rip Curl is supported by Caraïbos, Ville d'Anglet, Rip Curl, Action Glow, Turtledove, Volt, BAB2, Suez, Europe 2, Atlantal, Nexity and Torq.

Gary McCall wins dryrobe® x Carve 2024 photo competition

We are stoked to announce Gary McCall’s photo of Lucas Chumbo at Mullaghmore was voted our dryrobe x Carve Photo of the Year!

We just loved how Gary framed the wave, the clouds, how far the lip was throwing, the ribs drawing up the face and in the lip, and how on edge Lucas was – full tilt, leaning forward, hand in the wave for stability. It is a hell of a ride, and a hell of a photo, and one that justly deserves the title.

How does it feel to win the dryrobe® x Carve Surf Photo of the Year competition?
Delighted and surprised, thank you soo much!

Can you tell us the story behind the moment you captured in this photo? What do you remember of the day?One of the first really solid swells from last winter and luckily bathed in soft morning light. There was occasional decent size tow sets marching through by 9am and this was one that Lucas Chumbo swung through on. This wave hit the inside ledge hard and opened up into a this monster cavern.

A full interview with Gary is in this months Carve out next week. Get your copy here.

Gary wins this epic prize bundle.

An ultimate ‘All Seasons dryrobe® Bundle for Photographers’. Plus: Thanks to Red Bull, the winning photographer will get the chance to travel and capture a Red Bull UK surf athlete in action!

The bundle will include;

dryrobe® Advance Long Sleeve £165, dryrobe® Mid-Layer Jacket £110, dryrobe® Waterproof Poncho £120, dryrobe® Water-repellent Car Seat Covers £50, dryrobe® Thermal Boots £80, dryrobe® Thermal Gloves £40, dryrobe® Compression Backpack £95.

Read Gideon’s story here. The inspiring story of local surfer done good, dryrobe® founder.

An AQUATECH EDGE Base Kit worth £1399.95

The EDGE Base Water Housing is a culmination of the design principles AQUATECH have been perfecting for over 20 years. The EDGE is our most compact, advanced, and ergonomic water housing design to date. From the world’s greatest surf and ocean photographers, to enthusiast fashion photographers and everyone in between.

• Available to fit: Canon R5/R6, Sony (all alpha series models), Nikon Z7 / Z6 / Z7II / Z6II / Z5, Fuji X-T5

• Controls: Dual Shutter Buttons, Zoom Dial (requires compatible Zoom Gear).

• Weight: 1.4kg (3lb)

• Depth Rating: 10m/33ft

• Construction: Polycarbonate body, stainless steel controls as well as hard anodised aluminium controls

• Compatible Accessories: M3 Pistol Grip, LUX Flash Housing, SYNC Transmitter Housing, Pro Mount V4, Water Housing Body Cap, Side Handle Mount

Thanks to Red Bull, the winning photographer will get the chance to travel and capture a Red Bull UK surf athlete in action this autumn!

Huge thanks to all the contributors and sponsors for this years photo competition, the response has been epic. You're a talented bunch, keep shooting.

CLICK HERE TO ORDER THE MAG

Morocco / Mikey February

Hell yes, who doesn't love watching Mikey February surf? A passionate advocate for ocean conservation and diversity in surfing, working to broaden the representation of African surfers on the global stage.

His stylish approach has earned him recognition not only as a talented surfer but as an artist on the water.

Sit back and watch him slide his way through North Africa accompanied by a rich and smooth soundtrack, nice.

Caity Simmers and John John Florence World Champs

Caity Simmers (USA) and John John Florence (HAW) claimed historic wins at the Lexus WSL Finals, the final event of the season for the World Surf League (WSL) 2024 Championship Tour (CT), and were crowned the 2024 World Champions. Both Simmers and Florence entered the Lexus WSL Finals as the No. 1 seeds and became the first duo to hold their place since the inaugural WSL Finals in 2021, won by Carissa Moore (HAW) and Gabriel Medina (BRA).

Caity Simmers Claims Maiden World Title, Becomes Surfing's Youngest World Champion on the CT*

After a sport-changing season, 18-year-old Caity Simmers (USA) capped off 2024 with her first World Title today as she continues to lead surfing’s progression to another level. The pride of Oceanside, California, Simmers’ incredible showing in the Title Match against reigning WSL Champion Caroline Marks (USA) pushed her performance to historic feats, accruing the highest heat total of the WSL Finals so far, an 18.37 (out of a possible 20). Marking the first women’s World Title for California in 40 years, Simmers was hoisted up by some of her closest friends and surrounded by her family and Oceanside community.

In her second season on Tour, Simmers claimed CT wins at the Lexus Pipe Pro, Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach, and Vivo Rio Pro and made her Olympic debut all in just nine months.

“It means so much,” Simmers said. “I literally was going through every single emotion today, and it just feels crazy. I can’t believe it. I was feeling so much love today from everyone. You can look at it that it’s all for yourself or you can look at it like it’s for those people who support me.”

The Women’s Title Match went to three heats for just the second time in Finals history after Marks claimed victory in Title Match 1. Despite Simmers getting the advantage in the opening exchange and posting an excellent 8.50 (out of a possible 10), backed up by an 8.33, Marks kept pace, closing the match out with a near-perfect 9.60, the highest single wave score for women in the Finals.

Undeterred, Simmers opened Title Match 2 with her powerful, progressive form to post a 9.17 and eclipse Marks’ opening wave. Marks answered right back with an 8.00 before Simmers found herself in the spot for a Lower Trestles dreamer to attack from start to finish with her signature flair and power. Her efforts garnered another near-perfect 9.20 that had the Oceanside fans in attendance erupting on the beach as she posted her historic heat total.

Fireworks ensued in the winner-take-all third match. Simmers opened up with her forehand attack to post a 6.33, while Marks’ backhand daggers earned a solid 7.17. But, Simmers eyed down another gem and blasted an excellent 8.33, courtesy of multiple powerful hammers, to seize control and claim her maiden World Title.

“I wanted to go out there and just dance and surf how I wanted to surf and not surf like there was so much weight on it,” Simmers said. “Everyone’s here because surfing is so great. We’re just out there riding waves.”

John John Florence Returns Atop the World for Historic Third World Title

At a young age, John John Florence (HAW) was labeled a future World Title contender, and he made those dreams a reality in 2016 and 2017. After a laborious seven years of injury-plagued seasons that saw him become a two-time Olympian, husband, and father, Florence returned to the top of the world for his historic third World Title.

The 31-year-old spoiled Brazil’s initial storm with his maiden World Title in 2016, after Adriano de Souza (BRA) and Gabriel Medina (BRA) won back-to-back in 2014 and 2015, respectively. Now, after six years of Brazilian dominance, Florence has ended that streak once more to join the likes of Medina, Andy Irons (HAW), Mick Fanning (AUS), Tom Curren (USA), and more with three World Titles.

“I’m tearing up," Florence said. “I can’t believe it. The last seven years have been so tough. There were so many injuries, and just fighting back to being in this position. My family, my wife, my son, my team, everyone. I couldn’t have done it without them because of the injuries and the down days and just so much going into these last few years to get to this point.”

A battle of WSL Champions unfolded in men’s Title Match 1 between Florence and Italo Ferreira (BRA), the 2019 World Champion. A slow start gave way to a fiery performance from Ferreira, who put Florence in an early combination. Florence answered with a 7.17, before staying extremely patient while Ferreira built his scoreline. Requiring an 8.16 in the fading moments, Florence was gifted a Lower Trestles gem that he unloaded his power and progression on for each critical section to earn an excellent 8.33, turning the heat as the horn sounded.

Taking his confidence from Match 1, Florence opened up the crucial Match 2 with a near-perfect 9.70, the single-highest score in WSL Finals history, to deliver a definitive statement and clinch the victory with his trademark layback. Ferreira posted two excellent rides of his own but was left needing a near-perfect 9.96 when the buzzer sounded, allowing Florence to claim his long-awaited third World Title and even the Title count with his greatest rival, Gabriel Medina (BRA).

“What a day,” Florence said. “It’s been a really hard road getting here. It feels really good to be done and to win again. The list of names that have three World Titles is pretty incredible, and to be part of that now is really fun. I’m stoked to tie it with Gabe [Medina], because he’s such a fierce competitor, and we qualified at the same time.”

Olympic Gold Medalists Caroline Marks and Italo Ferreira Push the Limits as 2024 Runner-ups

Another incredible season for defending World Champion Caroline Marks (USA) sees the 22-year-old Olympic Gold Medalist place runner-up to the World Title for the second time in her career. Heading into the event in the No. 2 seed, the Floridian, who resides in San Clemente, was able to fend off strong competition from 2021 runner-up Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA), in a rematch of the Paris 2024 Olympic Games Gold Medal Match.

The first all-goofy-footer battle to take place in the Lexus WSL Finals saw Weston-Webb push Marks to bring out her best. The Brazilian’s form had previously powered through victories over Molly Picklum (AUS) and Brisa Hennessy (CRC) in Match 1 and 2, respectively, but Marks was once again able to win ahead of Weston-Webb to meet Simmers in the Title Match.

Appearing in his third Lexus WSL Finals, Italo Ferreira (BRA) repeated the charge from Match 1 to the Title Match that saw him finish runner-up in 2022. The Tokyo Olympic Gold Medalist displayed his unmatched energy as he defeated Australia’s two World Title hopefuls, Ethan Ewing (AUS) and Jack Robinson (AUS), in Match 1 and 2, respectively, before meeting Griffin Colapinto (USA) in Match 3.

Ferreira brought his bravado once more to start the match against Colpainto, San Clemente’s local hero, posting a 7.60 and taking control. The Californian found his form later in the heat to earn a 7.33 and push Ferreira to respond, with it all coming down to the last exchange. Ferreira’s backhand flair bumped Colapinto’s requirement up to a 7.20 and the World No. 2, Colapinto, fell just short - his 7.00 ride allowing Ferreira one more chance at a second World Title.

For highlights and more information about the 2024 Lexus WSL Finals, please visit WorldSurfLeague.com.

2024 Lexus WSL Finals Women's Results:
Women's Title Match 3: Caitlin Simmers (USA) 15.16 DEF. Caroline Marks (USA) 7.17
Women's Title Match 2: Caitlin Simmers (USA) 18.37 DEF. Caroline Marks (USA) 14.17
Women's Title Match 1: Caroline Marks (USA) 17.43 DEF. Caitlin Simmers (USA) 16.87
Women's Match 3: Caroline Marks (USA) 14.20 DEF. Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) 13.83
Women's Match 2: Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) 13.77 DEF. Brisa Hennessy (CRC) 13.17
Women's Match 1: Tatiana Weston-Webb (BRA) 12.74 DEF. Molly Picklum (AUS) 9.40

2024 Lexus WSL Finals Men's Results:
Men's Title Match 2: John John Florence (HAW) 18.13 DEF. Italo Ferreira (BRA) 16.30
Men's Title Match 1: John John Florence (HAW) 15.50 DEF. Italo Ferreira (BRA) 15.33
Men's Match 3: Italo Ferreira (BRA) 14.47 DEF. Griffin Colapinto (USA) 14.33
Men's Match 2: Italo Ferreira (BRA) 14.57 DEF. Jack Robinson (AUS) 9.94
Men's Match 1: Italo Ferreira (BRA) 15.47 DEF. Ethan Ewing (AUS) 14.83

*Although Simmers is the youngest to win a WSL world title, Margo Oberg became the youngest world surfing champion at 15 in 1968. Margo went on to win many more titles and is a pioneer of woman's surfing.

Dane Reynolds and crew.

Watch some of CI's leading Team Riders in a purely surf action "Team Edit" for the Dumpster Diver 2.

The idea for this board came when Dane was riding his original Dumpster Diver while filming "Out of the Rafters" edit for Chapter 11 last year. He was was tripping out how how tiny and short the Dumpster Diver felt and wanted to build a longer - modernised version that still tapped into the magic of the original.