"How not to surf Puerto…"


Ever wondered what it is like to get smashed by a 20 foot wave and then take the rest of the set on the head at Puerto Escondido? Let Taz Knight show you in what is, quite frankly, a fooking scary video.

John Florence Wins The Eddie Aikau!

John John Florence of Hawaii (pictured red) takes off on a steap wave alongside Mason Ho of Hawaii (black) during Round 2 of the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau at Waimea Bay on Thursday February 25, 2016. Florence posted the highest scores of the day to win the event.

So. Eddie went. For the first time since 2009 the most famous big wave event in the world finally went down at the renowned Waimea Bay.

Pe’ahi has stolen the spotlight in recent years as the bay slumbered. Was the Eddie still relevant now paddle performance was hitting new heights on the neighbouring island of Maui and around the world? In a word: yes.

Waimea’s boil ridden ledge is a unique challenge and the waves from the #Brockswell, named in honour of recently departed legend Brock Little, were the perfect answer. Maxing Waimea, frequent close out sets. Best in 40-years according Eddie’s little bro Clyde who still donned a rashie at 66. It was riveting viewing. Waimea in fugly mood with the world’s best big wave riders keen to honour Eddie and Brock meant for some heroic moments and a good few wipeouts that had to be watched through the fingers. The highlights reel isn’t ready yet but there’s plenty on the WSL YouTube channel.
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The early money was on Dorian with a side bet on John Florence and Kelly. But it was the old guard of Ross Clark Jones, still killing it at fifty something,  that got an early start. In the end John, from just down the Kam Highway, took the honour. Kind of fitting, he is the new Hawaiian royalty. So the dust settles and we wait for next season. Or maybe another six years before the Eddie goes again…

Official WSL Press Release

John John Florence (HAW) brought a new style and a new generation to big wave surfing today by winning the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, a World Surf League Specialty Event, in waves of up to 60-feet. Florence won $75,000 – the biggest purse in Big Wave riding, with a 4-wave total of 301 out of 400 points.

“I was excited just to be part of the event,” said Florence. “I was so nervous, I thought, oh gosh, I just gotta get through this day and hopefully get a couple of waves!

“I was riding my bike down here this-morning in the dark and just the energy of how many people were parked all the way down the street. I’ve lived here my whole life and I’ve never seen it like that. Walking down the beach, like Uncle Clyde was saying, people just screaming, and the energy was so crazy. I’ve never been a part of an event like this. It’s definitely the highlight of my life for sure.
John John Florence of Hawaii (pictured red) scored the highest total over two rounds of competition to win the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau at Waimea Bay on Thursday February 25, 2016.

“Biggest of all, I want to say thanks to the Aikau family and Quiksilver for putting on this amazing event. I’ve only seen it run a couple of times in my life so to be a part of it, to be surfing in it, and to actually win it is such a dream come true…against all these legends. These guys are my heroes since I’ve been growing up. And thanks to my mom and my family and all my good friends who are here.”
John John Florence of Hawaii (pictured red) holds up his winning cheque after winning theQuiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau at Waimea Bay on Thursday February 25, 2016.

Florence, 23, edged out previous event winner Ross Clarke-Jones (AUS) with a late charge in his second round heat, posting his top two rides of the day during a flurry of gigantic waves. Better known for his year-round pursuits on the WSL Championship Tour, Florence is fast forging himself a place at the head of the big wave riding movement that is regarded a discipline all its own.

Third place today was Shane Dorian (HAW); fourth went to Jamie Mitchell (AUS); fifth was Kelly Slater (USA); and sixth was Makuakai Rothman (HAW).

A capacity crowd of 25,000 lined the headland-to-headland arena of Waimea Bay, witnessing eight hours of uninterrupted, mind-blowing entertainment. They roared and gasped as the 28-man field offered up fearless rides and more than a few horrific wipeouts from sun up to sun down.

Today’s conditions were the most epic ever for an “Eddie” and will surely go down as the greatest one-day Big Wave event in history. The emotions and energy were on overload with what surfers were calling “Brock’s Swell,” in honor of long-time Eddie invitee and Hawaii Big Wave rider Brock Little, who lost his battle with cancer just last week.

Those who rode today were nothing short of gladiators, armed with surfboards of up to 11-feet in length that were still dwarfed by the ocean’s tonnage. They pitted world-class skills along with their lives against the adrenaline-inducing display of Mother Nature.

Grant Twiggy Baker of South Africa (pictured) takes a massive drop as he wipesout during Round 1 of the Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikua at Waimea Beach, North Shore, Hawaii on Thursday February 25, 2016.

The undeniable crowd favorite, drawing a standing ovation wave as he walked from Waimea Bay Beach Park to the shoreline, was 66-year-old Clyde Aikau – Eddie Aikau’s younger brother, who has contested all nine Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational events through 31 years, declaring this to be his last.
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In all, 141 dramatic rides were logged today, including gutsy charges by Eddie Aikau rookies Koa Rothman (HAW) and Mason Ho (HAW); last minute Alternate starters Danilo Couto (BRZ) and Ben Wilkinson (AUS); and emotionally charged, seasoned rides by Slater and Dorian, in memory of close friend Brock Little.
Jamie O'Brien of Hawaii (pictured green) shares a ride with Shane Dorian (red) during Round 2 of the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau at Waimea Bay on Thursday February 26, 2016.

The world famous Hawaiian Water Patrol were the bedrock of today’s event, without whose support the organizers would never have been able to call the day “on.” Their safety support and assistance in harrowing moments will see every surfer return home safe tonight.

At times it was as if there were two spectacular events going on at the same time as surfers dropped down feathering walls, and a fleet of rescue jet-skis gunned to outrun avalanches of water as they bolted towards beach or horizon.

Along with the Water Patrol support was the added layer of confidence athletes had with the Quiksilver x Aqua Lung Inflatable Vest – a technology that didn’t exist when The Eddie was last held in December of 2009. Only three of the 28 athletes today competed without a vest.

“It was actually nice to have it, to have the option,” said Ross Clarke-Jones. “Because if I don’t wear it, then I’m going to get hammered. I chose to wear it and I didn’t need it till the last wave. It was the last wave and I thought I’ll pull it anyway because I got pounded and it just came out like a breeze. It’s an incredible piece of equipment.”

Each surfer contested two rounds of 1-hour, 7-man heats, with their top four scoring rides at the end of the day producing their final event score. Each ride was scored out of a total of 100 points, with size of wave, critical nature of the take-off, and successful completion of a ride all factors.

Oahu’s Aaron Gold was awarded today with the The Quiksilver GO Challenge for a massive wave ridden at Pe’ahi a month ago that has been estimated at more than 70 feet. The special award was offered up to all Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Invitees and Alternates for the biggest, most critical wave ridden in the Hawaiian Islands during the holding period of this event up to today. Gold won $10,000 for his efforts.

The Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau is the original one-day, Big Wave surfing event, started in memory of Hawaiian waterman, Waimea Bay lifeguard and Big Wave pioneer Eddie Aikau. What started 31 years ago to pay tribute to Aikau, has grown to become an almost mythic event whose elusiveness has only fueled its global appeal. The Eddie only runs when wave face heights reach a minimum of 40 feet at Waimea Bay… a day so rare it has only happened nine times in 31 years. Today was one of those days.

Highlights from the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau are available at WorldSurfLeague.com

The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Final Results:
1 – John John Florence (HAW) 301
2 – Ross Clarke-Jones (AUS) 278
3 – Jamie Mitchell (AUS) 249
4 – Kelly Slater (USA) 238
5 – Dave Wassel (HAW) 230
Kelly Slater of the USA (pictured) riding a huge, clean faced wave during Round 2 of the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddia Aikau at Waimea Bay on Thursday February 25, 2016.

Roca Puta!

Basque barminess from this winter at Roca Puta, a fearsome wave that breaks off a rocky headland and doesn’t suffer fools gladly. The literal translation of Roca Puta, according to Google translate at least, is rock bitch but, it must said puta does mean, some what more, err, colourful terms also. If you stuffed up one of these drops it’s understandable you might be inspired to do a swear at Mother Ocean.

Nice work from Alexander Triebel / Young Shoot...

Big Wave Tom Eps 3&4…

https://youtu.be/kQh6xo0dQds

Been a wild winter, a bit too wild in some respects, how many decent days have their been at Mully etc?

A few early season when I arrived, some paddle days as shown in Ep 3 of Big Wave Tom. I stayed for a month after these first few surfs and it rained straight for so long. At the end just before I went to Spain we all got some fun surfs in smaller Mully and at the local reefs for turns and barrels.

What’s the deal with the Surfing GB ambassador role?

I was stoked when they emailed me to say about picking me for this award. I’m the fourth person to win the trophy, past winners were Cotty, Skindog and Luke Dillon. Cotty got his for performances in big waves free surfing. Ben for placing second in the longboarding ISA World Games and Luke for winning the Pro Junior in Lanzarote in 2014.
Placing second in the La Vaca comp (BWT Ep4) would have been one of the reasons they choose me this year and some free surfs sessions I guess.

Got your face on the TV from the Cribber session then? How did the groms cope?

It was good to meet the BBC journalist and try explain best how big wave surfing works. We then watched the life boat scramble to go fetch the windsurfers after an epic session! I was saying make sure they separate up the water users who just got rescued! On my getting my mug on TV, it was great to get some mainstream attention for surfing in this country.
The groms are men! Yeah those boys all survived the session. I was really proud watching them take some beatings and get some good rights! I just snapped my leash and board after the first wave so didn’t really get a proper run out the blocks! The grom’s parents who stood watching their sons taking on a debut big wave session, got a first hand experience of what can go wrong and how fast everything turns to carnage.

Did they poop themselves when your leash snapped and you had to swim in?

It didn’t look like it as I gazed out to sea everyone was really aware of the best positioning. And I said to them all it’s a really challenging wave to surf. The rip’s always hectic. You have all the rip pulling out of Little Fistral and then pushing out along the headland and sucking out to sea and to the north. Then all the ocean to the north as you sit out the back is pretty exposed your view to the right is the Quies rocks off Trevose lighthouse. It’s an epic challenging spot and it works a lot more than people have been surfing it! It’s epic the groms and everyone else do have a challenging scary out to sea A-frame peak to get a taste on.
This said everything can go wrong like what happened to me and it was a scary five minutes so it’s not for everyone to jump out on and try. Just like any big wave spot you must want it deep down!

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Which excites you more Nazare or Mully?

I’m never going to answer that one. Them two places are too special. I’m not cheating on one of them! It’s just epic they are a day’s plane ride away from Newquay and or a few days in a car then you have all your kit in tow.

Keen for some Jaws and Mavericks next winter if the supports there?

Without a doubt. Hungrier now than ever after watching everything. I’m going to go when the times right both financially and logistically. For sure I need to hit the Pacific next winter for some swells. I’m like all the big wave guy’s everyone wants to be on every swell. But last minute travel with 9 foot+ boards is incredibly expensive.

Found the GoPro you lost at Cribbar yet?

Get hunting people it’s still there!

https://youtu.be/S0n3dpsiZ9E

The Safety Dance

There have been a couple of incidents in Ireland recently requiring coastguard assistance. Helicopters rescued a stranded surfer from the bottom of the Cliffs of Moher and Australian pro bodyboarder Ben Player was extracted from the reef at Rileys after he managed to rupture his own spleen. The former has led to a considered response. IRISH Safety guru Peter Conroy explains…

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How many serious injuries have occurred at these waves over the years? There have been a few injuries there over the past few years with a broken back and two dislocated shoulders, near drownings from boats being flipped and skis lost. But we’ve learnt from every mistake and this is why we’re working to pre-plan for any incidents that may occur again there in the future.

How did you break your back and what happened with the rescue? I broke my back down at Rileys and was very lucky that there was a ski out there with a rescue sled on it. This allowed us to self rescue and maintain proper in line spinal precautions. And all we needed was a ambulance that met us at the slipway. Way better than a helicopter crew putting their lives in danger by coming and trying to winch me up.

Most of the Irish based tow teams and big wave surfers are pioneers and mainly self taught. Yet you’ve reached a level of safety and rescue that is getting the thumbs up from surfers like Dorian. How have you got there? We’ve all trained under the same guidelines, Glyn Ovs from Water Safety International came over a few years back and showed us a lot of rescue procedures he had learnt in California. We adopted these and just by everyone working off the same protocol we started developing action plans for most of the big waves spots. From working in the Fire Brigade and having a degree in disaster management I was able to draft up emergency action plans and get the training procedures set up for everyone.

Rileys, Aileens or Mullaghmore: which is the heaviest to surf and why? They are all very different waves in many ways. Be it location, access, extraction, injuries sustained there. But definitely the Cliffs and Rileys are the most dangerous due to the lack of access for the emergency services. Mully is safe enough due to its close proximity to the harbour and the deep channel after the wave. That and the fact all the lads are some of the best jet ski operators in the world up there. Dylan, Barry and Paul … the place is safe when they’re out there keeping an eye on you.

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What’s the plan with the safety box – why is it a necessity at Alieens? The box that’s going down to the bottom of the cliffs will be there to help any stranded/injured surfer maintain his injury or situation and communicate with the emergency services. Also allowing tired surfers to rest with survival gear and warm clothing/energy bars/water to maybe recuperate from a nasty wipeout or maybe just to wait until the swell dies down a bit and they can get back out. It’s there so we do not have to put the emergency services in danger by doing unneccessary rescues.

What is the relationship with the Irish Coastguard like? We’ve been working very closely with the helicopter service and the Irish Coastguard in ensuring safe procedures are in place for all these spots now. Hard work by the Irish Tow Surf Rescue Club has insured that there is never bad blood between the surfers and the rescue services. A mutual respect is given to each other on the basis that we understand each other’s skills and appreciation for safety in our sport.

What is the general vibe like when you get a Long brother or a Dorian turn up? When they come over we treat them like our own, which they are: surfers. They play the game and that’s how it is, mutual respect is what it’s all about. They always have good things to say about trips to Ireland with the one obvious downside: the cold. They’re all a bit soft really…

The older crew have been breaking the ground and showing the way to the younger Irish surfers. How stoked are you when Conor or Ollie pull into bombs? Who you calling old?! It’s pretty amazing to watch the younger lads come up behind us and be pushing the boundaries so hard. It makes me proud to be Irish and see the respect we get from the best surfers in the world when they come over here and surf with us. I don’t think the lads like Conor, Ollie, Gearoid, Dylan Noonan, etc, get enough help and support as they should for the things there doing in our sport. Things have got to change.

Do you think these waves have been surfed as big as possible or is there still potential for more? Not even close. There’s always going to be a better day. I just hope I’m not working when I comes. We’ve only just scratched the surface.

I’d just like to add the Irish Tow Surf Rescue Club’s main aim is to safeguard all our big wave surf spots and to maintain a level of rescue training in and out of the water. We also really appreciate all the help given to us by sponsors: Patagonia, Peli Products Ireland, Northcore and most recently Brendan Quinn who donated a collapsable stretcher to the club.
Any other companies out there that are willing to help us out in our goal and test their gear in the harshest environment possible please don’t hesitate to contact me through the mag. We can save lives together.