Meet the firefighter and family man who surfs Sydney’s scariest wave just for kicks. This is the first of a three-pack of episodes from Sydney’s Cape Fear. Here, in episode one, we introduce you to Justen Allport. He’s a firefighter and a family man, but he spends his free time surfing Sydney’s most notorious slab. The pursuit of big wave surfing is something that requires full-blown, head-down, halfway insane commitment. You need to give it everything you got. You need to live for it. You need to want this, and nothing else.
This & Nothing Else: Justen Allport
Jul 14, 2015