10/10/24 a swell that had everything – size, period, reach and longevity. It made a lot people either very happy, “sick’ or question their jobs worth!
Will Bailey packed up his groms and his camera to intercept the swell down this local in south Wales.
Opening my shop early each morning is a familiar ritual, but today there was something special in the air. The sky had light shades of indigo, the trees deep with reds and oranges and the air was still with a sharp crisp smell of fallen leaves.
The espresso machine screeches to life and soon the quiet tranquil morning turns into the usual rat race of the morning rush. One of my first customers was a good friend of mine. He was on his way to work and had stopped off for a coffee. Over the usual chit chat, quietly and through gritted teeth, he mumbled ‘It’s pumping!’
PLD laying one down.
He was correct, and in fact it wasn’t just our local, the entire southwest coastline of the UK was alive, receiving the first solid swell of the autumn. With the water still warm enough for two or three surfs in a 3/2, a big period, small tides, sun shining and no wind, it was going to be a good day.
I was planning on surfing but as I left the house I caught sight of a camera, so I wrapped it in a towel and threw it in my bag. I knew Carve would like the coverage from up here, and I’ve recently brushed the dust off it.
Guff enjoying one of the best days ever down his local.
As I reached the beach, the regular local crew were already there. Some already on the point trading lefts and rights, and a few huddled around a small fire on the rocks, sipping coffee and cheering on each wave. Here tucked away in our little corner of Wales, it doesn’t happen often but when the stars align this wave is world class. The surfing standard at this spot is always really high, the local crew have it wired and they all rip. The usual familiar faces were all present, all getting their fair share of waves, and among them Eli Perrins Davies and Patrick Langdon Dark.
Elliot Beynon testing one of his hand shapes.
I’d watched Eli and Pat in the Boardmasters this past summer. I was there with my two boys, I wanted to show them some world class surfing and with Eli and Pat they also had some local talent to cheer on. They both put on an incredible display, and it was amazing to see them pushing Welsh surfing to the front of British and European competitions. Pat made the final, coming a close second to Lukas Skinner, in what is the first ever all UK final, and Pat being the first Welsh surfer in a QS final I think since Carwyn Williams. Truly showing how the level in UK has risen onto the world stage.
Eli Perrins Davies goes the right
As I turned my camera on a set loomed on the horizon, and before I had a chance to position myself, Eli took off on a perfect right-hander. My first thoughts were “ Fu** me! How does this camera work?” I used to be able to work it with my eyes closed. So I had to just watch his first wave. His style was smooth and effortless, a product of years of honing his craft at this very spot. He set a high line, flew down into a text book bottom turn and smashed the lip, landed it, and straight into another bottom turn top turn combo. I let out a little cheer and then got myself reacquainted with my camera.
Pat had been ill with the lurg, but he couldn’t miss out on the day’s conditions. He’d casually cruised out, chatted for a bit, let all the boys have a wave before him while waiting his turn. His first turn was outrageous! I’m not sure if it was the angle I was looking from, but he should not have rode away! They both looked a league above and in another gear.
Having been away from the surf scene for so long it struck me how strange it was that neither Pat nor Eli had a sticker on the front of their boards. I know times are hard in the surf industry (apparently) but here are two athletes who represent the core of the sport, are at the top of British and European surfing, who live and breath the lifestyle, and are excellent role models for our youth. Pat and Eli represent everything that surf companies value, authentic, grassroots surfers who spend every spare moment in the water, pushing themselves and their craft. Pat is the highest rated British surfer on the Euro QS, ranking in at no10 in Europe.
Jamie Bateman working from home.
Since watching the Boardmasters, my two boys, who are 12 and 9 have been idolising Pat, Eli and Lukas. In the past, kids would normally be worshiping the unreachable Kelly’s, Andy’s and Italo’s. But today’s youth really do have home grown surfers to aspire to, and it’s amazing to see. Yet, despite their undeniable talent, results and influence on our youth, they have no sticker on the front of their boards, and have full time jobs, it’s baffling!
Throughout the session, the waves kept coming, and the usual local crew got their fair share, but there was no denying that Pat and Eli were the standouts of the day. Their surfing wasn’t just good for Welsh or British standards, it’s world class!
Before getting a proper job Will was one of the UKs top surf photographers. He’s now decided to pick up up camera and dust off the fins and get back n there, You can follow him here @willbailey
If you have tales or shots from sessions around our coast let’s see them! Email [email protected]
