MANERA – SURF LIBRE
Watch Dion Agius and Brendon Gibbens as they prove why surfing can be considered as a performing art rather than just a simple sport in this beautifully crafted film.
As if addicted to the ocean and the waves, Dion and Brendon have a constant desire to surf. It’s an obsession, a fantasy permanently hidden somewhere inside no matter where they are. It makes surfing sound a lot like a drug. Paul Gauguin couldn’t get up in the morning without thinking about picking up a paintbrush. He said painting set his soul free from the oppression of living as if it were the only outlet that allowed him to appreciate things. Surfing is their painting. Surfing is their art. They are the artists of their sport.
You can pre-order the next issue of Carve with the featuring the full story and pics of the mission.
Cinematography: Olivier Sautet & Dave Fox
Edit: Olivier Sautet
Photography: Nick Green
Surfers: Brendon Gibbens / Dion Agius