Who’s performances / which waves would you say inspired you to take up the challenge of big wave surfing?
A few people stand out to me. Paige Alms is incredible, and I just watched her movie; she is a true athlete, and I love her attitude. Twiggy is the man as far as I see, he keeps one step ahead with his equipment and preparation. Lowey is a good mate of mine, and I have to say he is my biggest inspiration, he has this fantastic attitude to life and how he rides waves, he is straight-up no-bullshit kind of guy, and I love that. I once went to Mully with Lowey we drove up from Lahinch, and we weren’t sure of a safety ski or someone taking shots or anything we just went. We arrived, and a few crews were towing, but Lowey wanted to paddle, and I joke you not it was 40ft faces and bombing kegs. I wasn’t prepared and didn’t have a board big enough, and I was also shitting myself I hadn’t paddled any bigger than 20ft faces at Mully! Paul o’Kane was kind enough to drop Lowey out and run safety for two hours, I watched on and saw him get three waves caught inside once on his own, no crew no bullshit just straight up badass legend! I ended up towing a few got my fill, but he blew my mind that day. Pure surf junky.
Ollie
My good friend Heber McMahon got me into surfing when I was 16 and took me out to Crab on a 6’4” when it was 6 ft plus. Let’s say I didn’t catch any waves on that board. But plenty on the head. I felt very comfortable in the surf. I just had to master the surfing part now. After a few years of surfing, I got a ski with some friends and ended up going to the Cliffs to watch and try towing it. I watched as Tom DH and Steve Thomas, John Mac and Dave Blount, Paul o’Kane and Mickie Hamilton just killed it out there. They were the lads I looked up to out there. They were still learning, but they were charging it. And I still hold them in high regards today and the guys that did it for the love of surfing it. We didn’t have cameras or video guys there with us. So many sessions went down undocumented.
I’m just glad I have them stored in my memory banks and was there to see it with my own eyes.
Peter
Great question, I didn’t watch much big wave surfing as a kid, I suppose it wasn’t a career path at that point, it was all about competing. I just gravitated towards bigger waves through enjoyment and passion, and I did a couple of seasons in Hawaii in my late teens which amped me up surfing big Sunset and Waimea which is probably very tame compared to today’s standard. I suppose meeting G-Mac and surfing the early years at Nazaré shaped my career but also doing the APT tow surf comps in Chile and Oregon in the early years was pretty epic and I met a lot of influential characters and heroes of mine.
Cotty
My biggest inspiration when I first started surfing was Richie Fitzgerald. He was a hometown hero and pioneered a previously unsurfable Mullaghmore with Gabe Davies. What they were doing back then seemed so unfathomable to me as I was still struggling in the shorebreak. It was inspiring to see someone from the town I grew up in pushing the limits on our doorstep, and I dreamed of doing the same someday. I’ve always loved watching Cotty out there also. He was always giving it 110 percent despite being backside. Cotty has always been super helpful and a great mentor.
The next generation of heavy water Irish surfers like Fergal, Cain, Ollie and Hugo were all a massive influence. They brought Irish slabs to the world stage and surfed them technically and as well as anyone else. Cain was probably my favourite surfer to watch and surf with. He is so technically gifted and such a gentleman. He also charged as hard as anyone but kept quite a low profile for how gifted he was. That man has zero ego. Fergal was my main inspiration and seeing him travel the world and catch the best waves at places like Teahupo’o was mind-blowing to me. I remember when he released an edit with Mickey Smith titled ‘Winter’. I watched that clip pretty much every day at least twice for about two years. I still watch it every now and then. That clip has inspired me probably more than anything else in the whole time I’ve been surfing.
The Irish bodyboarders were part of Ferg’s inspiration to start pushing himself further in our heavy slabs. Tom Gillespie, Shambles, Shane Meehan and Andrew Kilfeather were a tight little contingent of chargers and pioneers that made a huge mark on Irish surfing. Those boys are still pushing it as hard as anyone today. Surfing with those guys is amazing and makes me want to try that little bit harder to see what is possible for myself.
Conor
I used to watch all the clips and shots that came out of Ireland from Mickey Smith, showing Lowey and Fergal charging huge barrels. Then I saw all the shots come out of the first Mullaghmore tow-in event. The waves a left, so on my front side, I was keen to go and have a go and pull in. About ten months later, I got over there and had my first paddle in and tow-in session over a classic week on the west coast. Further afield, I always loved watching Mark Healey. I liked his approach and personality. When I was 16 I first went to Hawaii, and Nathan Philips mentored me on some Pipe and Sunset days, and Mark was staying at the back of the house, so it was rad to meet him back then and also get the push from Nath.
I take inspiration from other sports and other people who might not be connected to our sport or any sport. I also take daily inspiration from people close to me, good friends and family. I breathe in a ton of inspiration from living in general. Inspiration is all around us!
Tom
I wouldn’t say it was someone’s surfing or a particular wave, but a person- Mickey Smith. He gave me a different perspective on the ocean, and just being amongst that raw energy over in Ireland is what brought out my true self.
It was like tapping into the source of life and feeling like you’re right where you’re supposed to be. And I believe I’m still tapped into that vibe- it’s all flowing as it should. He will always be in my heart for inspiring and encouraging me to chase this dream.
Lowey